Speardiver wishbone line

  • Speardiver wishbone line for the North American market is made from Spectra, not Dyneema. Dyneema is cheaper and has more filaments per denier (approximately 10 to 1) making it softer causing it to abrade and wear out faster. Dyneema is used when price is more important than performance or if a softer line is required. The Rob Allen wishbone line is made using Dyneema as it is less expensive to produce. It has a rating of 400 lbs or 180 kg. The Speardiver 1.8mm wishbone line manufactured for the North American market uses a higher grade of Spectra and is rated for 600 lbs or 272 kg. The outer braid of the line is 52 to 59 pick which is the maximum possible for line of that diameter. The line is then top-coated with polyurethane to seal the line and further increase abrasion resistance.


    The wishbone line is available at the Speardiver store http://freedivingspearfishingg…es/116-wishbone-line.html


    One of the qualities we expect to be immediately apparent from a line suitable for wishbones is stiffness, check out the video demonstrating the stiffness of the Speardiver line. I can also tell you this line is hard to cut.


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-c3NOabpMo

  • Dan, is there any way you could get this stuff in thinner diameter? I really like my reel line to have memory.

  • One of the qualities that we've come to expect to be immediately apparent from a line suitable for wishbones is stiffness.


    Why do you equate stiffer line with being more appropriate for wishbones? :confused1:


    I've never put much thought into it, so interested to hear your perspective.

  • Thin wishbone line that tends to be the most durable is jacketed with a very tight weave. Tight weave equals stiffer line. Otherwise you'd be able to use this Dyneema line, but it just doesn't hold up for wishbones.




  • Thin wishbone line that tends to be the most durable is jacketed with a very tight weave. Tight weave equals stiffer line.


    When using tabs, I've never had wishbones outlast my bands. On one of my main euros(mini sharkfins), I've had the same wishbones for several band changes & a few hundred shots. Using notched shafts, I could see it being more of an issue.


    Thinking about it now, it seems the jacket is a far more important factor than the weave? Whether Spectra or Dyneema - if the jacket isn't compromised, I don't see how either weave would break. :confused1:

  • I don't know how it works for you, maybe it's experience and other guys tend to saw the wishbones over the tabs or notches. I see frayed Rob Allen wishbones come in all the time when guys are getting new rubber from me. Rob Allen because until now it's been the best alternative. Be that as it may you should just get a sample of this stuff, I'm telling you it's really hard to cut. I will be selling it for $.50/ft, that's cheaper than the RA stuff that selling for $.78/ft and better.

  • I don't know how it works for you, maybe it's experience and other guys tend to saw the wishbones over the tabs or notches. I see frayed Rob Allen wishbones come in all the time when guys are getting new rubber from me. Rob Allen because until now it's been the best alternative. Be that as it may you should just get a sample of this stuff, I'm telling you it's really hard to cut. I will be selling it for $.50/ft, that's cheaper than the RA stuff that selling for $.78/ft and better.


    One of the most common things I see with RA users is that they readjust the wishbones when loaded or partially loaded. This causes a lot of the fraying on dyneema or curling on SS wire wishbones. If you set it carefully, fraying is drastically minimized. As for tabs, I make sure mine are polished silky smooth. :D


    Going back to your comments about the stiffness of the material... not questioning the strength or durability of your wishbone cord. I understand that the stiffness is due to it's materials/construction. My main question is - strength/durability aside, does the stiffness of the material make it better/worse as a wishbone material? :confused1:

  • That is what I meant when I said sawing.


    Like I said the stiffness/hardness to me is just indicative of durability. In and of itself it may be good for staying ahead of the bands as you're trying to position it over the tab/notch, rather than drooping down, it's a small benefit.


    I want to reiterate that this stuff I got is jacketed meaning it has a core and a sheath/jacket. This sheath is a very tight weave and is what's giving the line its stiffness.

  • Like I said the stiffness/hardness to me is just indicative of durability. In and of itself it may be good for staying ahead of the bands as you're trying to position it over the tab/notch, rather than drooping down, it's a small benefit.


    Ah, the distinction wasn't clear to me. Thanks for explaining. :)

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