new tuna cannon build

  • Hey all,


    I've started a new build of a big blue water cannon! I'm using 3/4" Burmese Teak, nicely planed plank to start with. It will be a 4 Vertical, 1 Horizontal laminate measuring about 2x3" finished. I decided to go with the wide-flat style approach for better side-to-side hydro dynamics. Here are the starting pics! In a month or so I will follow up with first machining pics (and asking questions). As this is my first build, all input is welcome! Thanks in advance!

  • Look forward to seeing the progression. What is the length you are going for and what kind of fish are you gearing up for? I see you're from CA so I presume yellowtail and white sea bass.

  • Silentstoning- Well I've been dreaming of getting into some big tuna someday, so mainly for that! Also, it might be useful next january in NZ where the YT are fat! There's been a few times where i needed more power and range on some Wahoo and WSB too.


    I'm planning for a 65" stock and 65" shaft with about 145cm effective (band stretch), with 4-5 bands


    Gotta stay in the gym to load it!

  • Right on. I'll definitely be following this thread.


    You're talking 65" threaded shaft, right? So not including the tip. If you're including the tip I believe your shaft will be a little short with little overhang.

  • Oh yeah! definitely threaded so the adapter and tip add about 5-6"


    Is there some general rule about amount of overhang that you should have? I think it should be <12" total but that's just a gut feel based on what I've seen.

  • That's what I figured you'd be going with just wanted to double check. There is a general rule of thumb. I have to look back at my notes to find the high and the low, but off the top of my head I want to say minimum 7" maximum 10". If anyone knows off the top of their head please feel free to correct me. Myself, I usually roll between 7.5" and 9".

  • I personally dont like any unnecessary overhang, just enough to clear the flopper/ slip tip adapter, if open track about 4" from flopper tip to muzzle, if enclosed track 1" from flopper tip or slip tip adaptor to muzzle. (just my opinion though)


    Whered you get that nice aluminum square stock? Ive been looking for a longer straight edge for laminating.:thumbsup2:

  • Akira - Try industrial metal supply shops, they often have a randoms section with leftovers/scraps that they sell by the pound. That 72" piece cost me $50 but would be more than 2x that on mcmastercarr.com.


    It looks like overkill with the 1/4" wall but I tested some smaller square stock (1/8") by placing it on the ground with a coin under one end and you can easily deflect it over a 72" piece. It probably only matters if you have some real serious wood forces to fight. I like over doing it!!

  • Ladvr - good point about the kelp! I think I'm going to end up with about 9" total with slip tip.


    Thinking: 65" stock, 65" shaft (70" with tip) and the trigger mech front edge will be about 4" from butt.

  • I was playing around with a mock-up 2x4 to see about where the mid-handle should go. I bent my arm and looked at the distance from bicep to fist which was around 12", then clamped the handle there, it felt good. You could lift the stock up with bent arm etc. I know most shots are from an extended arm so it doesn't really matter that it fits in that bent arm space.


    Also, it is a remote trigger design - mech in rear


    Anyone have any thoughts on this? Does 12" seem about right (butt to handle grip)


    Thx!


  • Depending on how much bend you gave your arm this is generally the way to measure for a mid handle. Keep in mind you are not the same size as the person next to you so 12" for you could mean 14" for someone else. Also, keep in mind that you are going to add a loading pad so take that into account for where the butt of the gun will meet your crease in your arm and give a little play.

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