Posts by Adrian

That's why the title of this thread is "Adrian's Muzzle" because I specifically asked for an open head muzzle to fit a Rob Allen that had a spike.

I tried the sudafed option and it doesn't work for me. I can usually dive well but after a few 60 + dives I start having issues equalizing. I've never tried the saltwater method but I've heard of a few people that do it successfully.

Thanks for the tips

keep up the good work.

Thank you for sharing Anthony.

I understand your point and yes, inexperienced spearos should start with a float and line. I know I did, but eventually switched over to reels. I had the same thing that happened to Oscar happen to me. I had to let go, called the boat over and had them drop me a good 20 ft in front of the gun to get it back. Or if you have the drag set too low and you shoot a big fish the line will spool out so fast creating a bird's nest. Everything has pros and cons. My biggest fear with the float line is having the driver of the boat run it over and destroy the lower unit of the outboard. Or some careless boater run it over during a beach dive catching the rope and pull the whole rig out of my hands and never see it again. Regardless of the advantages of the float and rope I rather stick with reel any day of the week.

The current set up you have will fail, its only a matter of time before you have to choose between the gear or your life (applicable to freedivers only). What are your target species? How deep you dive? Where do you dive?

Marcos has a good point but it doesn't seem to be a problem with Riffe guns or any of the other guns with the band holes on the same line. I think offsetting the band holes would create a problem when making the hole for the kill spike. The only solution would be to make the muzzle beefier. I don't think accuracy is going to be a problem with this muzzle like Pargo said. I'll let you all know how it performs once I get it.

Quote from pargo

If you're weighed correctly does swimming back to the surface from depth require the same effort as swimming underwater horizontally?

I'm thinking if there is a difference then it's very small. As such once you get to the glide, which is fairly quickly, you're getting a free ride in terms of air consumption. Why is it then that depth is so important to some freedivers? Isn't underwater distance swimming more challenging and at the same time free of the danger element? It's not like the depth motivated freedivers are going down there to see something, all they see is the rope.

I don't think the difference is that small.....If I understand correctly you are saying that swimming horizontally is the same as swimming from the bottom up. Depending how deep you are you have to kick quite a bit to get pass the negative buoyancy and gravitational pull on the negative weight. It is only when you are within 15-20 feet of the surface that you become positively buoyant and sort of float to the surface. In my opinion swimming horizontally underwater with neutral buoyancy is much easier. I think the reason why depth is so important to freedivers is because they get to measure everything that goes with freediving against others. Things such as physical conditioning, stamina, oxygen consumption, CO2 tolerance, and concentration among other factors. Just my 2 cents.

It all depends on how you dive. If you are going to beach-dive, I totally suggest using a float, rope and flag. But if you are diving from a boat then a reel is definitely the way to go. Less things to deal with while in the water. Reels are very effective when dealing with large strong fighting fish (except tunas and such) and they offer less drag than a float+stringer+fish+rope etc... I've tried both ways and I can't see myself using a float and line again. Unless I have too many guns and I couldn't afford reels for all of them, then I would use the float and line system. I like simplicity, getting in and out of the water is much faster when using a reel and it doesn't take up a lot of space in the closet or on the boat. There is people that use both, the reel and the float and line. It is in part a matter of opinion or personal preference. I suggest you go diving with people that use both and try each system. It is the only way you will know for sure what works best for you. As far as how reels work is simple. They attach to the underside of the barrel as close to the handle as possible. The line in the reel attaches to the one end of the mono/shooting line and the other end attaches to the rear of the spear. You also asked about muzzles, go with an open muzzle. Faster reloading and easier aiming.

That's a fair price given the added features and benefits. Its not like we need to replace muzzles every month. I was the one that requested this particular muzzle so I am ok with it. I asked you how many you had made because I was interested in two. If you want me to try this one out before making more that's fine too.

How many did you make?

Hey Tin Man, that looks great. I think you were poking the pine post at an angle to see if the delrin would snap under the pressure exerted by the kill spike against the wood. By the way, is the spike pressed in, glued or screwed? I can't wait to try it out.

Sorry Tin Man, I check with my buddies but nothing....

Agreed.

There was nothing better at the time.

bodyglove used to have a cool (for the year) spearfishing game. You had to keep an eye on the air meeter and sharks. The gun looked like a tuna gun. Besides spearfishing you had to find and unlock different items such as long fins etc... This goes back to 2002-2005, I had it for a while then I ebayed it.

That's why you have buddies or girlfriends that don't fish and are willing to do the driving. I don't like hoods but it has saved me several times from jelly fish. You use it long enough you'll get used to it.

Finally a report from Harry, I was starting to wonder if you had given up on spearfishing. Thanks for sharing.

Nice footage y tremendos pargos.