By tangle I assume you mean kinks or bends in the line. I like to keep the mono kink free so I replace it whenever there's a kink. Mono is cheap so this is not a problem. But also it doesn't absolutely have to be replaced because of kinks. Mono should be replaced when it's cut or no longer smooth due to contact with abrasive surfaces.
Posts by Dan
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There are many points where a secure attachment is required between two pieces of gear, that can also be quickly/easily disengaged; speargun to float line, float line to float/board/kayak, stringer to float etc. I've experimented with many clips and have come to the conclusion that without exception, all available clips that can be quickly opened are not reliable.
One time I was diving with a kayak attached to a float line attached to my gun, using a clip that I thought was secure. At some point I felt very little drag and looked back at the kayak, it was gone. If you think you'll always feel/know when a piece of gear comes loose, and be able to recover it immediately, you're mistaken. In my situation there was a strong current and by the time I noticed the kayak was gone, it has floated off about 150 yards. I started to swim hard after it, but couldn't make headway as I was still holding the gun. I even tied the float line to my belt so I could tow the gun and use both my arms to swim, but realized that I will never catch the kayak. Fortunately I saw that it was moving at an angle that would eventually bring it to the beach. So I swam straight for shore. I was doing my best to swim and not lose sight of the kayak. When I reached the shore I had to walk 1.5 miles up the beach to get to the point where the kayak came close enough that I could go out and grab it. It would've been an expensive lesson, a Scupper pro with a paddle, sonar, and other gear on board.
Since that time I decided to never use a clip that had a chance of opening on its own. You'd think that some clips have little chance of that happening. But I guarantee that eventually there will come a moment, when all the stars are aligned/the right combination of movement of the gear due to current, waves or whatever will open the clip. You'll then be left wondering, maybe I didn't close the clip properly? You'll never know the answer except coming to the realization that there exists the possibility of it opening on its own.
One of the things that prompted me to post this is Reefchief's recent adventure with the Banks board http://spearfishing.world/80934-post247.html. Basically what happened was that a Tuna clip, which some tout as being very secure, opened and the Banks board with an iPhone in it and a bunch of other gear floated away and was gone out of sight before Mark became aware of the situation. It would've been an approx $800 loss had the iPhone not been left on the board TURNED ON and we could GPS track it with another iPhone and eventually make a recovery with a boat.
For a long time the only secure option I had to use for a quick disconnect clip was a stainless steel quick link. These are readily available at Home depot in different sizes, are not expensive, and very secure. The problem with them is that even though they're stainless steel, the threading accumulates corrosion fairly quickly, and the nut becomes too difficult to unscrew with only finger pressure. So you have to keep buying them every couple of months. Also they're not as quick to open as I'd like, because often you're not sure which way the nut needs to be turned to open, and end up tightening it first and spending some time figuring out whether you're unintentionally tightening it or if it's seized.

A couple of years ago I found the ideal solution, a quick release stainless steel snap, with a screw lock. An added advantage is the ring retainer that will keep one of the pieces of gear fixed at the end of the clip, and will not chafe rope. The size that we need is hard to find, and they're relatively expensive. Guys that saw me use this clip would often ask where they could get it. Recently I've been able to source some good quality snaps and I'm happy to make them available Freedive Store - Locking Stainless Steel Snap.

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Too me those white spots look like areas that haven't been iced, or kept on a warmer surface. I like the pic very much regardless

Looks like it was taken on the same day as your cuda encounter.
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Yes it's the same.
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What I would like to know is which muzzles have the 16mm-1 threading? 16mm being the diameter of the screw hole.
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This being the case I updated the product description for the 14mm-1 Euro Muzzle Band Adapters. Look for it to now magically appear elsewhere
QuoteThese adapters are for European speargun muzzles with screw in bands. 14mm-1 specifies a 14mm diameter and 1mm thread pitch. 14mm-1 is the most common threading and is used in the vast majority of speargun muzzles. This correct specification is largely unknown, and pre-made screw-in bands and wishbones are often incorrectly labled as "16mm threading" or "to fit a 16mm head". If you are unsure which adapters fit your muzzle, measure the diamter of the screw opening, it will either be 14mm or 16mm. If it's 14mm these are the adapters that will fit.
I must have a screw loose (pun intended) to spent so much time on such a small item. But I couldn't leave it with wrong information either.

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All muzzles using screw-in bands that I've seen have 14mm-1 threading. 14mm is the diameter of the "bolt" and 1 (1mm) is the pitch/distance between the threads. Yet all pre-made bands and wishbones using this system, are described as having 16mm threading, or being suitable for a 16mm head (muzzle). Does anyone know what is the correct description? and if there is other larger threading?
EDIT - Band adapters with correct specs are available from FreediveStore.com
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Must be a good feeling having your dog greet you at your exit point. Whatcha' get dad? pant pant pant. I'd like to have that one day.
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Does he follow you from the shore? Funny the fish looks bigger than him. But I don't think that would deter him from it eating it

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Nice mutt x 2

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Can you see your divers over the bow?
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Don't know about sexually transmitted.. but with the kind of shits you get with ciguatera, I wouldn't be surprised if fetuses get squeezed out.
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Sorry about your phone. I dropped my "nokia brick" in the toilet bowel once, it's 8 years old still going strong.
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I have full confidence in the Speardiver wetsuits, I use one myself. They're also used by commercial spearfishermen here in Miami who dive every day and buy suits from me twice a year because of real wear and tear, which is a testament to their durability. A singular manufacturing flaw is possible with any product, and is likely the cause of your tear seeing as how the suit has barely been used. Seams in open cell suits don't split because of unraveled stitching, they split because of a defect during the gluing process. Subsequent to that the stitching will unravel in the torn area.
Stitching throughout the suit is purposefully loose allowing the material to stretch. It's more evident at end points like wrists and ankles. People who expect a tight stitch like on scuba suits, don't understand open cell wetsuits. There are many experienced and credible divers who have put Speardiver suits through some good use and provided positive reviews. To date yours is the first Speardiver suit to split a seam that I know of.
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Nice story, thanks for sharing.
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A bungee is the safest system to secure a dive knife in a sheath. The same waxed twine used for tying spargun bands, is used to make the constrictor knot. The Speardiver Skene Knife and Red Tide Knife are shown in this video.
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Nice, I had to do the same thing with this one. Close to as insteresting as bottom hunting gets I think.

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Way to go Alessandro, nice shot!
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Gotta shoot em' good Hank, not tickle them with the spear <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
This thread title is funny every time I see it.
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None of us can see 'em. Hank got kicked off of Facebook and lost all his pics.
Nice doggy.