Posts by Dan

    Speardiver gear moved to a new website today www.speafishing.store. The new site looks similar to the old one, but the software is upgraded and there are new features making it easier to use and better looking. Like ability to select different shipping options, an improved search function, and a slick new cart and checkout. Now I can focus on adding the new products that I didn't have time to take pics and write descriptions for, and sourcing new ones.


    If you check it out and find something that's not working properly please let me know through the store's contact form.

    Very nice work Jim. I made the same mistake once with the router wheel going into the band slot. On another gun I also had the wheel go into the track half way down the gun. Then had to turn the gun into a half enclosed track. Truthfully routers make me nervous for this reason, a small oversight and potentially hours of work down the drain.


    So the Abellan mech doesn't need to be pinned, those two screws are all that's holding it in place? Pinning the mech without a jig is one of the nervous points I face when building a gun, so eliminating that is nice. Looks like the Abellan mech can't be used with a thin gun then. Any other disadvantages to this mech?


    I thought Mahogany needs to be encased in epoxy?


    After you shoot it I'd like to know how it differs from the Abellan.

    You can't tie a knot tight enough gripping the line with pliers. You can tie the knot tight enough wrapping it around anything. I prefer to be comfortable so I use two small wood dowels. Remember that wishbones pulling out can put a glitch in your dive day, but if a wishbone pulls out of a band that I made it would be embarrassing.

    I need to use a bead to tie 19mm and 20mm bands.

    I don't. Again you're probably not pulling the knot tight enough.


    This is my band tying kit.


    BandTyingKit2.jpg


    1. Shears. Anything can be used to cut tying twine and wishbone line. But I found these titanium shears from Home Depot to be particularly good.
    2. Needlenose pliers. To push the wishbone knot into the band (lubricated with spit). Any needle-nose pliers approximately this size will do.
    3. Lighter. Any will do but I prefer this torch because I can direct the flame better. Also it uses disposable lighters as a fuel source. You just knock the striker out and slip the lighter inside the torch.
    4. Speardiver band tying twine. This I will not change for anything.
    5. Speardiver Spectra wishbone line. It's the best I've seen.
    6. Two wood dowels to wrap the tying twine around and pull the knot tight.
    7. A short piece of PVC pipe. To keep the needlenose pliers in the open position as I pull the pliers out of the band, leaving the wishbone knot inside.
    8. Avoid the pliers and PVC piece altogether and use the Speardiver Plastic Inserts. So easy to insert even in bands with a very small hole. They are low profile and pretty, never pull out, are reusable, and if you need to change the wishbone line on the fly all you need to do is feed the line through the insert and put a knot on the end

    About what I see in your video.. Plastic beads are unnecessary. The reason your friend's knotted wishbones are not holding up may be because they're using your method to tie bands. With those two needle nose pliers you're not able to pull the knot tight enough. Needle nose pliers have a better use inserting the knotted wishbone into the band, the wishbone insert tool is unnecessary. Also a double constrictor knot is better than the constrictor knot for this application.



    The Mako band tying line you are using is very small diameter and it's possible it will cut the band when tightened properly. This Speardiver Band Tying Twine is much better for a few reasons. As with all things Mako the band making kit is more hoopla than practical.


    In any case using a knot in the wishbone line to anchor it in the band is obsolete. I've been using the Speardiver Low Profile Wishbone Inserts exclusively for a few years now. No insertion tool is necessary and the Dyneema wishbone is easily replaceable. Here's a video showing how to use it and how to tie bands correctly. The band making materials you see in the video are here Speargun Band Making Materials.


    Nice pics, it's a beautiful place. With structure like that usually indicating good drop offs nearby, I wonder why the area doesn't hold good fish?

    2nd pic, the old man and the sea? Captain Ahab? The intensity is palpable :) Nice pics. The water does not look inviting. What is the pink reel line and how do you like it?


    You gotta post the video on youtube. Then copy the direct link and paste it in the post.

    :thumbup: :S <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

    I almost got a nice grouper once playing this game. It went on for 15 minutes, finally I faked him out by pretending to dive and went straight back to the surface instead as he holed up. Stayed up for almost as long as I got him used to me laying in ambush on the bottom, and went down and waited. Sure enough he came out shortly after. But I missed the shot.

    I find it interesting how skittish they are, considering they're usually too small to target, so they shouldn't be used to anyone going after them? In the Bahamas they get huge. The locals call them "the barber" because they're known to carry siguatera.