Posts by Dan

    On that note I'll chime back in. I agree with LB. For me in part it's the retro look of the belt style straps, I just like it. For those who never paid it much thought and just accept the now conventional quick release plastic buckle style straps, consider the following. Those plastic buckles are a PITA to adjust, if you've done it you know. It takes a few tries to get it to the right length. If you change a wetsuit or take off the wetsuit, you have to adjust the straps all over again. Even when adjusted to be moderately tight the plastic buckles pinch the skin and hair when you connect them. For those reasons I prefer the belt style straps. They are easy to adjust on the go, and release just as quickly if necessary, like the rubber marseilles weight belt which inexperienced divers don't consider to be a quick release safe belt when in reality it's quicker to release than the conventional plastic weight belt buckle.



    That said I've used the plastic buckle straps in my first post for a long time, and never had a problem with a strap pulling out of the buckle. Maybe it's because I don't adjust the straps too tight, but I can't imagine anyone using the straps so tight as it would affect blood circulation and eventually become uncomfortable.


    I was going to go exclusively with the belt style straps, but it's clear to me now that there will be guys who prefer one style or the other. So I'll add a strap choice to the knives.

    Outwardly the Aeris F10 V2 is the same. The changes are to the hardware and software. The original F10 can be upgraded to version 2 for $135.


    Partial list of the new features.


    The New Aeris F.10 v.2 Personal Dive Computer. Aeris is introducing version v.2 of the F.10 Freediving Watch, the best dedicated freediving watch on the market today. Chilean Freediver Simon Bennett is beta testing the Aeris F.10 v2 as of this writing and just set a Chilean National Record. Much of these changes were driven by feedback gathered on the deeperblue.com forum. Martin Stepanek, of Freediving Instructors International, who worked with us to develop the original, was also instrumental in defining and testing these new features as well.
    Some of the key features of this new version are:

    • User settable depth activation for shallow water training
    • User updateable firmware – with optional cable
    • Salt / Fresh Water setting
    • Improved time and depth settings resolution
    • Repeatable countdown timer for interval training
    • Added history for the last session (resets at midnight, or may be manually reset)

    Excessive if you hit a rock up close, the tip of the 6.5 will bend. With longer shots the 6.5 loses momentum quickly. But we have a lot of fish here that are not on the bottom, and sometimes require range and penetration. You can always power down.

    I have spare straps for the Aim mask, I need to confirm that they fit the Technisub micromask. These straps are not conventional replacement mask straps, they're narrower, and the little ridges that get gripped by the buckle are closer together.

    I guess I should match the Riffe lengths. The way I see it the float line should be as long as the maximum depth you're diving plus 30ft. Since some guys dive 90ft and more I think there should definitely be a 120ft length. I may also offer it by the foot. I think I should have this float line within a month.


    What are you going to do with 5' lengths? This line doesn't stretch like a bungee, it stretches about %12 and then stops.

    It's possible that the line GR's friend has is from Riffe's first production of this line. This float line is not wakeboarding line, it's formulated specifically for this application. What may have happened with Riffe's first lines is that the neoprene used for the core was too soft. The neoprene would compress at depth and not rebound once back at the surface. Exactly what happens to wetsuits that use neoprene that's too soft like Yamamoto 45. The solution is to use harder neoprene and I believe Riffe has done this with the latest production of this line. I know all this because I'm about to offer the same float line from Pursuit, except I'll go straight to the correct stuff. Needless to say it will be priced at a fraction of what Riffe sells it for.

    Theoretically someone may think it's not a good idea. Practically I've finished a few guns with penetrating epoxy and it does the job of sealing and protecting the stock, with a minimal investment of work. A gun is a tool that's meant to be used. If it's going to get used there will be nicks and scratches. Getting it to look pretty for the first few days of it's life should be weighed against how much work it will require. IMO not worth the hassle, unless you're making the gun to sell for $1000.