Posts by Dan

Albino barracuda. Only the small back teeth throw it off.

maybe on the way back? Have a good trip.

The foot pocket rails are glued on the blade using Cyanoacrylate glue only. You need to make sure the blade is clean with no residue. Insert the blade fully in the f/p and measure where the rails should start (tip of the f/p tendon) and end (end of the T slot inside the f/p tendon). Once the rails are installed on the blade you insert the blade in the f/p, make the holes for the installation kit if any, install the kit, then simply snap the f/p tendons over the rails you glued on. There is no gluing between the f/p and any part of the blade.

Gorilla glue is great for wood. Like you said it takes on air and expands to fill gaps. But it's useless for fins. Which may make cleanup easier, you'll need to clean the tendons out carefully.

I don't remember if these f/p require rails or if they glue directly to the blade. Hank, is the slot inside the tendons straight or in the shape of a T?

Awesome seat. How will you connect it to the board? and the board to the cooler?

Welcome to spearfishing world.

Gorilla glue.. :rolleye2: good luck anyways.

Thanks for calling it advice, but we all know it was unrestrained criticism. At least it's validation I was right. Still I don't think much of these foot pockets because of the soft tendons. I don't remember if the sole was stiff enough. I also don't think much of Salvimar in general. I've seen some of their other gear and the impression I get is gimmicky, they add unique looking details that make things complicated without providing a benefit. Well, I'm sure it's to someone's taste.

Cutting the tendons is equivalent to the tendons being even softer, and lessening the water channeling effect which is equivalent to destabilizing the fins. I don't understand the necessity of this unless the blade is very stiff. It irks me to see people mess around like this (I've already done the messing around to prove to myself there's no point to it) when there's already a perfectly good foot pocket and blade combination available. Just choose the right foot pockets and the right stiffness blades.

Are you sure it's not fake? How would a cam move on it's own and why would it point exactly where the shark will breach.

Make sure you cut out the sole and take a picture to show there's no tab

IMO the tendons are still too soft to give a carbon blade adequate support.

Post back on how you like them with the blades installed.

I doubt that was "shark blood" on the spear.

Thanks Don, appreciated.

Several brands like piece of shit Mako is not "almost all dive gear" as you put it. And I don't call out decent gear, even if it's rebranded.

Quote from Chase

The aussie is another great reel and has a great warranty too. I'm sure barry paxman in Australia has put it to the test once or twice...

You're sure Paxman put it to the test. But I'm sure you've never seen or handled the Paxman reel in person (otherwise you wouldn't be so impressed with it). I have, it works but it's nothing special, especially for the price of $150. Here in the US with other options available, the Paxman reel is for guys who want something different and mistakenly believe the high price reflects performance.

Quote from Chase

Looks like the red tide reel. Matt had one, it's not any worse than all of the other reels in the same price range

If you say it's the Red Tide reel but more specifically it's the Taiwan Sports reel. And yes it's the worst reel in it's price range for the reasons I stated. Here are more pictures from less flattering angles to show how cheaply it's made.

Quote from Chase

Probably the best reel on the market is the ulusub followed by the aussie and both are made over seas.

Ulusub is a different class of reel. It's too robust to be used on a euro speargun or sling.

By Aussie do you mean this one? There's nothing special about it, especially to justify the price.

Quote from Chase

almost all dive gear is unoriginal rebranded merchandise. There's not an abundance of factories that make this stuff...

Now you're really talking nonsense.

Silverspearo, I don't understand your question. There is only one way to attach the reel, it looks like this.

Not sure what you mean by flat or vertically. I would mount it where it doesn't interfere with the grip and stretching/contracting of the bands.

The Speardiver reel. One of its nice feature is the sliding line guide ring, it straightens out any kinks in the line before they end up on the spool.

You're welcome :attack2:

In general depending on the metal thickness used, stainless steel and aluminum reels are not a good choice because they deform easily. If the gun has any weight just dropping it on the boat deck reel down will bend the reel spool. If the metal is thick enough for the spool to be sturdy the reel becomes too heavy and sinks the gun even without the shaft. By contrast plastic/composite reels have a springy quality, when the material is good the plastic reel can take a good whack without losing its shape or breaking. The steel reel spool will deform when simply dropped on a hard floor from chest level, the plastic reel will just bounce around. The metal bracket of that particular Headhunter reel will deform if you just sneeze on it.

You are correct, these are no longer available for general sale. But because it's an indispensable piece of gear I feel compelled to offer the PH to local divers who come to the shop, then I can make sure they'll use it responsibly. The reason I posted in this thread is because I saw you're in Miami.

Stainless steel screws to attach the reel mount to a wood gun or sling are fine.

Quote from Chase

Should check out headhunter. They have teak slings and reels that mount to slings for a decent price.

It looks good in the pic but the "Headhunter" reel is cheap, designed and made in China by people who don't use reels. The metal bracket/line guide is weak and bends easily.