attan, you asked for reasons and were given some good reasons.
Posts by Dan
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That will be the next thing to try.
The other thing is that up in the bow I have storage hatches. The fiberglass above them is obviously not as thick as the hull. I'm wondering if it's strong enough to support a cleat even with some backing from underneath.
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So are you saying that I need 15' of chain to use 4-1? Then I'll need double the line I have to anchor in 60'.
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I ordered both of them. I think the threading on this one may not be so fine as on the quick link, maybe it will rust less.
If you have a rigid deck, is there a suitable place where you can install a cleat?
What happens is that the line will run over the tubes and chafe them.
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My boat is an 18' rigid inflatable, which means it's a light boat. I have a 9lb standard fluke anchor with 6' of chain. I need to make loops in the anchor line at specific intervals so as to be able to clip the line to the boat depending on the depth we're diving. I've read that the anchor line should be 4-7 times the water depth, but I don't think we've ever used that kind of ratio. Anyways I only have 130' of line.
So, how much line for 30' depth?
60'?
90'?
Also I go out on nice days, no more than 4' waves. Thanks.
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I found these two, both stainless steel. I have no idea how the first one works. What do you think?
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It's for my boat.
My boat doesn't have a cleat for the anchor line. The closest thing to an anchor attachment point is the the stainless steel eye for the trailer winch, which is obviously on the outside of the boat in the front. My only solution is to keep a short line attached to this eye, then clip it to knots that I put in the anchor line in intervals corresponding to the depth we'll be diving.
I need something reasonably quick and very secure, in SS.
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I'm looking for a quick release snap to use with an anchor line. The problem is that I don't trust anything I've seen so far. Snaps like this one can open up on their own unexpectedly. I once almost lost a kayak like this.
The only secure "snap" that I trust is the quick link.
But the problem with it is that eventually the threads will rust and the nut will seize. Plus it takes a little too long to secure for when doing it numerous times throughout the day. -
Steven, why only one fish?
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<img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">
Make sure that when you use your gun hand to loosen the hood, you don't poke yourself in the eye <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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one of my hunting buddies has located a bird of prey sanctuary that's wants every coyote carcas we can donate.
I applaud the effort you made so the meat won't go to waste.
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Frank, I put a hole in my hood. Do you think it's too big? <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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I didn't move arguments, I thought everyone knew the band rotts on the inside so maybe I never mentioned it.
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Personally, I think water intrusion factor is a negligible factor... but a decent marketting ploy.
If you cut open a used band you will see that the saltwater rots the band from the inside. There will be a discoloration around the hole and that area lost it's elastic properties. Water intrusion is not just a problem affecting immediate performance, it has long term negative effects.
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Kyle, I get the same from time to time, I think it's normal when you dive with blocked passages. You ruptured some blood vessels by forcing equalization. It's really better to not dive when you're still blocked up from a cold because sometimes getting it to the point you did, will now take longer to heal than if you would've waited to clear up completely before going diving. Sometimes it's worth it
the last time for me definitely wasn't, my sinuses were messed up for 3 weeks. It's nothing permanent so don't worry. -
The bands themselves limit water intrusion because of the small ID. Water intrusion is definitely not a myth, cut open an old band after a day of spearfishing and you'll see.
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I hate hoods but might consider one if it were an extremely pliable material like Yamoto 45. Does anyone where to get one?
My wetsuits come with a hood, and the suits are made of a neoprene as soft and flexible as Yamamoto 45. But for my use I cut the hood off. The wetsuit functions perfectly and the seal around the neck stays very good. I have a separate hood which I keep, supposedly for some extreme cold day, but I've never used it. You can get a hood anywhere, Divers Direct is as good a place as any.
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if we could find a source for tubes with a 1" ID and a smooth OD of 1.160" or so like yours. Sanding it smooth took a while, and made a heck of a mess. I would love to avoid or at least minimze that on future guns.
Give me a chance to find out about that.
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hau, I have 5mm suits coming in 3 weeks. Think the same comfort you are experiencing now with the 3mm but warmer.
