Posts by Dan

    jb, I don't know what the original pin diameter was but a 1/8" rod that I have fits fairly well.


    Macdyver, where would I find SS C clips that are small enough.


    Jeff, flattening out one end by tapping it with a hammer is fine. But what about the other end? How can I hammer on it while it's in the hinge which is on the hatch?

    I have a hatch on my boat that has a stainless steel hinge. The pin of this hinge is gone. The hinge is secured to the hatch in such a way that it doesn't make sense to take it off to replace it, or to work on it. Whatever I use to make a pin must be installed with the hinge in place on the boat. I have various SS rods and bolts of the correct diameter for a pin. The problem is making the ends so the pin stays in place. A bolt has a head on one side but what can I do to the other side? I can't bang on it with a hammer while the hinge is on the hatch. Bending both sides of a straight rod is also almost impossible. I thought of weakening each end of the rod with a small cut at the point of the bend to make bending easier. I'm just hoping there may be a product for this application, or some better way of DIY.

    Congratz on the yak jb, looks nice and compact, and the tribe grows by one.. The seac gun is an interesting choice, Joe here has one and I was impressed with some of its features. I'm not sure which model you have but his has an all stainless trigger mech and housing, the handle has a good angle on it and the whole thing is nice and light. The only disadvantage to it IMO is that the loading pad is pure torture.

    I'm no expert on hybrids. I just think that the combination of a relatively slim pipe and a large wood barrel is not harmonious. I wouldn't know where to grip it when I'm swimming with it. But then I haven't been concerned too much with more power than two 16mm bands.

    jbrewer, I read through this thread again and I don't think we've been very helpful providing you with information. It's a little late now but you can find my opinion on what makes a good freediving wetsuit here http://spearfishing.world/wetsuits/1350-our-wetsuits.html


    Basically what's preferred is a 2 piece suit, with open cell on the inside and Lycra or nylon on the outside. Camo IMO is not a big deal, it's more eye appeal for the diver than anything else. It's important that the suit have an anatomical cut ie. have extra pieces that make it up so it resembles the shape of a human body better. Some suits on the market are square and certain areas need to stretch much more than others to fit the body. Durability is another factor that will become apparent over time. Care must be taken with the open cell suit when putting on and taking off. Any damage is most likely to occur at this point from pulling too hard on the neoprene, which BTW the more flexible and comfortable it is, the less strong it is.


    I've read some reports of the Riffe suit coming apart early on. I can't speak from personal experience with regards to their 3mm, but I wasn't impressed with their 1mm so I can believe it http://spearfishing.world/wets…fe-1mm-top-and-pants.html Also the Riffe 3mm suits were pricey at $450, I see that they dropped to $332 but that's still a nice chunk of change.

    hau's were medium hard blades, stiffer than the medium. See how you like them. The MH blades can overwhelm many divers. hau got them even though I was strongly recommending the medium. If you like the performance of carbon, which you should get an idea from using them, but they end up too stiff for you, consider switching to medium. You'll should be able to sell the MH blades for more than what you paid for them.

    I don't think you'll black out there. Black out happens when you become too relaxed, there's no way I could relax in such conditions :)

    Nice work Jeff. I can't begin to imagine all the work you put into this gun. If you're doing another one I think it would be nice with the barrel having the same profile throughout the length of the gun. Probably less work too.