Posts by Dan

    :cherna2: alert!!! <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">


    Sorry for the derail Brett.

    Great thread Tin Man. Should read like a things to do list when tweaking a gun for maximum performance. I've always tapered my bands a little, mostly for cosmetic reasons and for a little easier pulling through the band slot, but I never imagined it makes a difference as far as drag.


    I do agree with seaweed in that even all the factors together make a small difference, and with Don that getting close to the fish matters most. We all know though that sometimes no matter what you do the fish will simply not let you get close, and that's where all the tweaking makes a difference.

    I thought that it might not have been by chance that it got stuck there.


    Does being around there make you want to use the dolphin kick? :)

    Very cool.


    So what happens when sharks show up like that, you just keep chumming and shooting?


    How big were those tuna darting through? Were they too small to shoot or were you hoping for bigger ones to show up?

    Don, thanks for the warning, I'm reminded how the structural integrity of the handle could be compromised. That cut out is for the original line release which I didn't like. Still this handle has a lot of meat, it's very solid, it's not a plastic shell.

    Yeah, I thought he was using the spear length x 3 instead of the gun length.


    Actually Marco your numbers add up to 790cm which is almost 26ft.


    I honestly don't know if I can hit a fish at that distance from my eyes.


    Still, did you ever shoot at a fish, maybe a big fish, and the spear stopped short?

    It's one of my first attempts at trying different stuff. As you know I don't like the pin although it works. I used the pin in that situation because there was too little space between the plate and the wing to route the shooting line. Afterward I removed the wings and brought the gun back to it's original condition including the plate.

    Brett, actually the idea was Griswold's a couple of years ago, he started the chicken turner mania :) I believe he got some good results coating complete guns this way.


    What I did was just modify the muzzle of a Riffe C3X with wings as attachment points for the bands, to see if inline band pull makes any difference. It was a waste of time. I didn't like the bands flopping all over the place. A better result was achieved by installing a more ergonomic handle which brought the grip closer to the plane of travel of the spear. Later I removed the wings and redid the black finish.


    I've had these wishbone inserts in and out of salt water for a week now and not even a little stain, so they're truly stainless steel.


    Don, what about your mod?

    Goon morning Don :)


    Bretto, I did the first 8" of the front of a gun like that once, black color, looked just like your piece of wood. It turned out good, I used a chicken turner to turn the stock continuously to get the smooth finish. My purpose in doing so was to cover up some cosmetic faults that the wood had in that area. But I wouldn't do it for cosmetic reasons only to a whole gun. Wood is beautiful, and the epoxy finish is more work.


    If your purpose is to give the gun a durable care free finish, as opposed to oil which you have to reapply often, I recommend penetrating epoxy.

    Thanks for posting that option Don.


    That's the same line release that little pipe gun that I sold recently had, a common European line release. It works, but before you load the shaft you have to check that it's in the down position. Also it doesn't keep the shooting line tight against the gun barrel. It has the benefit that it can be installed aftermarket on many guns but the negatives are honestly not something I'm willing deal with.