Posts by Dan

Doesn't the bushing also eliminate the necessity for a longer spring?

I think one of the thin Dremel disks may be used to cut a good slot.

The spring popping out of the screw head can be remedied by somehow fastening it in the screw head permanently.

Jeff, I think this is shaping up nicely into a simpler installation.

Good thinking Ray.

Jeff, here's a possible way around that problem. The whole reason for the extra hole is so as not to torque up the spring during installation because the line release has to go in first, and consequently it anchor the spring. Why not put a thin slot in the line release instead of a pin hole so that it can be installed once the screw and spring are in place. Then you just give the screw/spring one more turn.

Another problem is getting the head of the screw thick enough that the very small bit of spring anchored in it will not pop out. Are there screws with a thicker head? The tolerance of the line release slot in the stock will have to be very small for the line release not to wobble and allow the spring to pop out of the screw head hole.

Also the spring will be significantly longer this way, will it still provide enough torque?

Another idea is a very specialized screw. It only needs threading at the end that actually bites into the other side of the slot.

hau, can you please give me a link to where you're getting this info.

Jeff, you da man! Thank you.

Alan, I'll try to post pics of this later.

I just saw this on an episode of pitch men. What a crock of shite http://www.thesharkstopper.com/

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Investment Opportunities

The Sharkstopper team is awaiting funding to finalize testing of its first product, the Watercraft Repellent.

I solved this problem. I remembered a small sheet of plastic that was hanging around the house a few months ago but couldn't remember where it came from. I had a stroke of genius to ask my wife, she's really great that way. After 5 minutes of describing it the light bulb went on and she brought me two of those sheets. Turns out these little $1 cloth shopping bags she gets at Publix have the plastic sheets at the bottom to keep it rigid and give the bag form. They are the perfect thickness for shimmying and are a nice matte black color. The handle is rock solid in the tube. I remember now that I've seen similar plastic sheets on the bottom of more expensive sports bags.

If anyone still wants to offer other solutions feel free to use this thread.

I just got an idea to use a thin but stiff plastic sheet. Something like what comes inside the footpockets when you buy complete fins to keep the footpockets from collapsing. I can't remember well, those may be too thick. Any ideas where I can get a thin plastic sheet? Maybe one of the thinner PVC pipes.

I need a solid way to increase the diameter of the male adapter of a speargun handle by about 1mm all around. I used two part epoxy to form a thin layer all around the male part and slowly inserted it into the tube turning it at the same time. The extra epoxy squeezed out and was easily removed. It's solid for now but I'm afraid that after many flexes of the barrel the epoxy will crack and disintegrate. Suggestions for a better way please.

I too use the gun to push off if it's hard bottom. If it's patchy, rock and sand, I look for a hard spot. Fiberglass blades will not break. I believe these new carbon blades will also not break. Of course this depends on the direction and force of your push. When pushing off with the fins I use a moderate force with my body still more parallel to the bottom than perpendicular.

Quote from monster slayer

Dan as a bottomline, tell me straight, which one is your overall favorite.

Can't say yet. I'm leaning towards the carbon but l have to try them on an actual dive and figure out which stiffness is right for me. If not the carbon then I prefer to use my old waterway blades. I still have to try another pair of glass blades with an angle.

It will have to be footpockets too but I figure for now people can get the pockets elsewhere. I think the blades will be available in time for summer. I still have to test the hard stiffness. I felt the medium may be too soft for me but I have to confirm on an actual dive. I don't think I will carry the soft version.

The way I reasoned the lack of propulsion with the DiveR blades is this. Apart from the heaviness/length combination there had to be another reason because if the heaviness/length was the only factor then by exerting more effort I should have been able overcome it and create more propulsion. The problem is with the angle. Increasing the angle for more comfortable surface swimming has a trade off. This is obvious if you consider that the angle can't be increased forever. It can't be increased forever because the energy transfer on the down stroke starts to lag more and more behind your kick and the up stroke becomes more and more difficult just like doing a ham curl. This is why I worked out my hams the first time I used the DiveR blades. There is a sweet spot where ankle comfort, energy transfer to the blade and the discharge of this energy into the water are at correct balance. The DiveR IMO passed this point. There is a reason why all blades on the market maintain an angle less than 20 degrees against the DiveR 30 degrees. After the first day using the DiveR I thought it might work out. I figured I can never increase the tendon strength in my ankles but my hams will get stronger eventually and I'll be able to handle the blades. This idea flew out the window when I realized how far the blade lags behind on the down stroke. This is when I made the decision that I don't want to use these blades any more.

Comparison to the angled carbon blades; Swimming lengths in a small pool I counted the number of kicks with both the DiveR and the carbon blades. I must have changed fins back and forth 20 times to make sure the results were consistent. With the DiveR I was able to swim the pool consistently with 9 kicks and a few times with 8 kicks. With the carbon I was able to do the same length consistently with 10 kicks and a few times with 9. On average the DiveR needed one less kick than the carbon for the same pool length. Initially I did this on the surface one pool length at a time. The DiveR were silent and forced me into a slow steady kick maintaining what felt like perfect form. The carbon were so light I didn't feel like I had fins on. They were noisier on the surface and the kick felt much faster than the DiveR, but the forward advance was proportional to the effort I was exerting.

Now here is where the most interesting part came in. I started doing two pool lenths underwater. So it was a pool lenth, turn around at the wall, and back to the beggining all along the bottom of the pool. Consider that the dive went shallow - deep - shallow along the bottom. On the first lenth there was no problem with the DiverR. On the way back towards the end I was feeling that the DiveR blades were draining me of oxygen. On the way back with the carbon blades I felt no such thing. I could increase my kicking effort and the carbon blades would get me to the end of the pool faster without taxing my air. These results are consistent in my mind with what I felt using the DiveR on the deeper dives off the boat. The descent is nothing, you kick slow and soft and glide the rest of the way down. It's on the ascent when you need the propulsion and for the blades to transfer energy in an efficient manner, and it was on the ascent when the DiveR were taxing me just when I needed the air most.

The carbon fins need to be tested further on deep dives. I will then post more results.

There's no retail location planned at the moment if that's what you mean. For starters they will be marketed online and ordered through PM, email or over the phone. Anyone that's in the area is welcome to come to my house, handle the blades and even jump in the pool to try them out.

The name is something that we're working on. The blades come in soft, medium and hard stiffness. Specs are coming up shortly. A few minor details still need to be ironed out.

Nice pic of all the spearfishing friends.

Julio, how about your contact information, and maybe a link to another site where your work can be seen as well as approximate prices for the spearguns.

There's so much going on in the speargun section with all the different innovations and projects that it would be hard to separate what should go in each section. What I did propose to Julio before since he produces guns on a regular basis is a place for him to showcase all his work and offer it for sale. I put up the thread now, it's under the speargun section http://spearfishing.world/spea…gracia-sub-spearguns.html

The reason the thread is locked is because I wanted to finish the writeup before people start commenting. I didn't know it was going to take me this long to finish it. I tried to do a thorough job of assessing all those blades and coming to a solid conclusion. I have one more pair of fiberglass blades to test but since the focus is on the DiveR I should be finished today, so if you want you can comment there http://spearfishing.world/divi…er-edge-and-waterway.html I can tell you right now that the carbon blades are very nice and I will be selling them. They will be the cheapest carbon blades on the market. They are also very durable. I still think fiberglass blades have their place.

That's good to know.