For an enclosed track I prefer poured epoxy graphite or cut right into the wood.
I see you're here in Fort Lauderdale, you should check out the Speardiver trigger mechanisms Speargun Trigger Mechanism.


For an enclosed track I prefer poured epoxy graphite or cut right into the wood.
I see you're here in Fort Lauderdale, you should check out the Speardiver trigger mechanisms Speargun Trigger Mechanism.


Glad you got some good spearfishing.
I don't understand, is the green tape all that's holding the scale against he pull of the band?
Nice to see it coming together.
Here's the stone shot ![]()

I hate sharks that have the potential to do me harm. I will also kill and eat shark, depending on the species the flesh can be very good. But I always figured shark fin soup is bullshit.
I was joking Ramon, there's nothing new about deliberate misinformation to further someone's agenda. Here's one by the Sea Shepherds against spearfishing.

I use these inserts Low Profile Plastic Wishbone Inserts it allows me to easily control the wishbone length. The length of the wishbone between the inserts is about 1.25".

I don't know what to believe any more ![]()
In the case of the rear band I would start with: 41.25 x 2 = 82.5
82.5/3 = 27.5 round it off to 28" that's the length of your rubber piece and will give you %300 stretch ( I use very short wishbones) which is conservative. See how you like it and shorten if it's too easy to load.
I like a deep track, makes it easier to load. I prefer enclosed track.
Welcome to Speardiver.
If you're looking for speargun carbon tubes (they are hollow and get plugged at each end):
Carbon Speargun Tube With Track C1
Good idea the PVC pipe.
Don, sounds like you may get to doing it before me. Please post back with results.
I have a 7mm carbon steel south African shaft that I adapted for use with a pneumatic speargun. I chose a shaft that's longer than what is required for the 110cm air gun, so I was able to cut off the rear end with the loading notches leaving a straight shaft with the flopper already installed. Shaping the back end to fit the piston is quick work with a bench grinder. But drilling a hole for attachment of the mono shooting line in these extremely hard shafts is no simple task. I found the only way it can be done is with a carbide drill bit. If you can't find a carbide drill bit you can also use a 1/8 masonry bit with a carbide tip.
I'm left with two unprotected areas on the shaft, the rear end and shooting line hole, that I know will start rusting immediately. I don't know the exact process used on these south African carbon spring steel shafts to make them rust resistant. I'm guessing they are galvanized. So I looked for information on how to galvanize at home and found this video. I hope it really is as simple as demonstrated.
American shafts will normally have full size sharkfin loading tabs. The forward most tab will have a hole in it for attachment of the mono shooting line. Not sure how neptonics shafts are, below is a Speardiver shaft from FreediveStore.com.

Cool video, good editing, I enjoyed it.
Part of the fun is crushing the bubble blowers' egos no? <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">
Are those the Speardiver CK fins we shot with an air rifle 6 years ago?
Welcome to Speardiver. Impressive captures.
Atta boy! Take them snook, I wish I could ![]()
Nice dodo!
Welcome to Speardiver. Looking forward to your build.