Posts by Dan

    The best investment I made in my diving is my fins. They did not break the bank but they were a big purchase. My carbon fins make diving easier. I use less energy from less of a kick and I kinda kick less often. This uses less o2 and that translates into more potential dive time.

    Which carbon fins do you use?

    Aloha Makoa,


    There is no such thing as a pure carbon fin blade, there are always other materials added, epoxy resin at the least. This makes your question moot to a degree. But I understand you're looking to sift through the hype and make the best fin choice.


    A good carbon fin must have other materials added to make it durable. The performance difference (blade weight and speed) between a "pure" carbon blade and a good carbon blade which contains other materials to make it more durable, is so small that durability trumps it by far.


    Normally manufacturers will keep the materials, and the production process a trade secret. I do, and will never disclose carbon percentage or other specific composition details about Speardiver carbon fins, with the exception of stating that they contain no fiberglass. You will never know what goes into any carbon blade going by the manufacturer's statements, there's always a degree of marketing involved. The only way you can know for sure is have experience with what the different materials look like, and take apart the blade.


    Good fiberglass and carbon blades are a huge improvement over plastic.


    There are significant differences between fiberglass blades from different manufacturers. A poor quality fiberglass blade is slower than molasses, but will still be a little better than plastic.


    A good carbon blade is significantly better than even the best fiberglass blade. It's lighter and faster, you get more return for your kick and your legs get less tired as the hours go by.


    Kevlar in a fin blade is a waste of time. Kevlar is a material that's made to dissipate energy, all it does is slow down a carbon blade. I was the first in the US to experiment with Kevlar, and dropped it quickly. All it does is make the fin look pretty.


    Which brings me to another point. Any kind of camo paint or layer in a carbon fin, will always take away from its performance/slow it down. Whether the difference is perceptible depends on the manufacturer and the diver's experience.


    For my diving I will always choose good carbon fins. The exception may be if going on spearfishing trip very far away from home, where the fins will be handled by others in a way that's out of my control. For example being wedged in peculiar position on the boat and someone stepping on them. Not many fins will survive that, but you have a better chance with bulletproof fiberglass blades.


    IMO it's not possible to make a good choice going by manufacturers statements about carbon blade composition. Carbon fin manufacturing doesn't have established specifications like items in other industries. The way to go is with carbon fins that have good reviews from experienced non-affiliated divers, a good track record for durability, a clear warranty, and haven't changed in a long time. I recommend Speardiver carbon fins and http://spearfishing.world/fins…arbon-fins-roll-call.html.

    To be clear which is a vertical reel and which is a horizontal reel.


    1. Vertical reel. In this case the trigger guard shows that side of the reel is towards the handle/back of the gun. The winding lever is on the right side, to be turned with the right hand if the speargun bottom/reel is facing down, or to be turned with the left hand if the speargun bottom/reel is facing up.



    2. Horizontal reel.



    Questions (all pertaining to using the gun in real hunting conditions):


    1. Which way do you prefer to hold the speargun when spooling on line, bottom down/reel down or bottom up/reel up?
    2. Which hand do you prefer to hold the speargun with, and which do you turn the reel with?
    3. To spool on line do you prefer to turn the handle in a clockwise or counter clockwise direction?
    4. When fish starts taking line, do you prefer the drag to loosen up/go into free spool, or stay at the pressure you set it before the shot?

    I've been using thinned epoxy for years, never had a problem. The wood gets scratched, deep or shallow, penetrating epoxy is reapplied in 5 minutes with a sponge, and the gun is like new. I don't give a crap if anyone says penetrating epoxy is bad. In reality epoxy coating done under the wrong conditions is more likely to lift off the wood and create a defect in the finish, this will never happen with penetrating/thinned epoxy. If you're doing epoxy coating with a professional set up, a few guns at a time, then epoxy makes sense. And even then on guns stocks that have angled shapes, it's very difficult to get a perfect coat. For a single build an epoxy finish is a PITA. If I show you a gun with a thinned epoxy finish from a distance of 6ft, you will not know it's not epoxy, only on close up examination.

    If there's any difference between those and regular swimming goggles, it's because there's a rubber seal around the conventional goggles that adds internal volume, then collapses/compresses at depth resulting in more pressure on the eye. I'm sure solid plastic goggles will function the same as the wooden ones. There's an idea for a new product :)


    If anyone wants to test my theory, just take an old pair of goggles, rip off the rubber, and make a lip around the lenses with epoxy putty.

    The mech pocket was a mess, it looked like a beaver tried to gnaw its way into it.

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    Nice looking gun with distinctive styling.