Thanks for the report.
Very cool pic Frank.
Posts by Dan
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on the retro avatar Oscar. -
That loading butt looks like a malevolently designed torture instrument.
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Mo is diving 40ft, very nice. how old is he?
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A little young to have a bucket list no?
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Very nice fish.
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Wow you guys are trusting souls. Judging by your disregard for the video, you take it for granted that all mono line from other manufacturers lives up to its stated breaking strength. I don't have patience for this kind of thinking because I know it's not true. I'm the only one who put up a vid of my line being tested to prove the breaking strength, because I'm meticulous about the gear. If you know what you're looking for, the two factors that contribute to how well the line will hold up crimped, are breaking strength and low stretch. When a line stretches under load it becomes thinner and starts to slip through the crimp, that's when the crimp cuts into it and the line breaks. In the video you can clearly see how low stretch Speardiver mono is right up to the end. IMO it would be wishful thinking to buy other mono simply assuming that it performs the same, I wouldn't.
Anyways to give you an idea of what you want to know. A crimped loop held my weight which I'm embarrassed to say is 240lb.
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Begs the question.. why they'd have one handy in the first place?
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Only Pacific (green camo).
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Marco, I will have the XS size which is made for kids in about two weeks. It's smaller than S size. Here's the sizing chart for 3mm and 5mm suits, but it doesn't include the XS yet. You can get one XS and one S. If the S is too big for your 14 year old I'm sure he'll grow into it in a year or two. I can't do XXS until we try the XS.
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I'll have clear transparent fiberglass blades soon that you will only need to buy once, they'll never break on you. They will also out perform the plastic blades by far, same as the blue fiberglass blades you tried in the pool.
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Mike Meade with 110cm Speardiver Teak Euro. Permit shot in federal waters out of Miami.
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Making any kind of strenuous physical and/or mental effort at such depth is very dangerous. Focusing on the task you can momentarily forget your internal safety gauge. When you remember it again you could be past your limit heading for a blackout.
Some other factors to consider extracting a shaft/fish.
1. Are you using a double or single flopper shaft? If your problem is the shaft getting wedged in a rock crevice, sometimes you can turn it so that the flopper lies down and allows extraction of the shaft. With two floppers this is impossible because when one flopper closes the other opens.
2. Is the shooting line attachment point at the very back of the shaft or on a sharkfin tab? If it's on a sharkfin tab the shaft can act as a big slip tip and the back of it can get wedged inside the hole making extraction impossible. If you're shooting into holes a lot a euro shaft with the shooting line attached to the back is best.
3. To extract a stuck shaft you can reach, often turning the shaft is necessary. It's difficult to grip a shaft with your hands tight enough to turn, the shaft slips in your hand. In this case a shaft extractor is handy tool to have. It's basically a stainless steel piece that has a hole you can slip over the back of the shaft, then slide and lock over the shaft notch. The shaft extractor gives you a lot of leverage to turn a shaft. The Speardiver Stinger knives have the extractor tool built into the knife, so you don't have to carry an extra tool. Albeit I consider the Stinger a secondary/backup knife.
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That's incredible. Are there stories of his trips online somewhere? I found this Key West to Havana via PWC.
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I heard that Tarpon is beaten until the flesh turns to mush, then a hole is cut in the skin and the meat is pushed out.
