Posts by Dan

    I was interested to see how much detail they put into the wood wahoo so I brightened up the pic a little. I think it may look nice as decoration in a spearfishing shop :) If it's not too much trouble can you please find out how much it would cost to have one made without the lead but with a little extra detail, and sent it here.


    Easy enough to test penetration with milk jugs filled with sand. Or dense styrofoam boards so as not to dirty up your pool. Let me know when.


    The sharp tri-cut point on the 6.5mm RA shaft will definitely help with penetration. I normally don't care about sharp points but may have to start paying attention now.

    I've been using the Speardiver carbon speargun, with the stainless steel mechanism upgrade (no reel) Speardiver Phantom Carbon Speargun. My background is wood guns with deep open track and enclosed track. For a few years I've taken the minimalist approach with the wood spearguns I built, and made them as thin as possible. In the last year I got this feeling that I want to be even more light and unencumbered in the water, and started using my own Speardiver carbon gun.


    I really enjoy how light it is and the maneuverability. The length of my 130cm gun does not feel excessive at all. The things I miss about the wood gun are the deep track and ease of loading that comes with that. It takes a little more time to keep the shaft positioned on the track and guide it into the mech. Also the attachment points of the float line (at the handle) and shooting line (pin in the muzzle) are not as robust as would make me feel at ease. I tend to make things stronger than they need to be. With a wood gun I feel like a 200lb tuna would not tear out the attachment points in open water.


    A deep open track is something I'd love to incorporate into a carbon gun, and may in the future. The attachment points.. it is what it is, no less strong than any other pipe gun. In any case I feel that realistically the gun is capable of dealing with any fish I'm likely to encounter. Even with these small details that are not ideal, I don't think I'll be going back to wood guns. The lightness factor of the carbon gun wins. BTW I hate chest loading so I hip load this gun.


    I didn't have any problem with a stainless steel 7mm shaft. But wanted to make the gun even lighter. So I decided to try a 6.5mm carbon steel shaft. I used it today and liked it a lot. The shaft really zings and the gun is very accurate. I got a couple of great shots today that went exactly where I wanted them to at a good distance. I will continue using the 6.5mm shaft, I guess until a fish bends it that I think shouldn't have been able to bend it.


    I'll see if I have time to post pics of my gun later.



    You could make the base that goes against the handle a little longer on one side, and put a pin hole there. Once secured on the gun in the correct position, a hole can be drilled through this pin hole and into the handle, 4mm depth will suffice. A pin inserted through the hole in the mount base and into the hole in the handle would stop any pivoting.

    I enjoyed seeing a dive watch with a freedive spearfishing theme and the Speardiver name, albeit with a different spelling Spear Diver Watch. I don't know what makes this watch from Helson watch company be worth $600, maybe one of you watch aficionados can say? From a bit of research looks like it's a homage to an old classic dive watch, the Seiko 6105.






    Seiko 6105

    Monster, what can be done here with this motorised kayak is launch from a public beach, where launching of any motor boats is not allowed. Just hide the motor, paddle out, then replace the motor and off you go.

    You can put a tight rubber band or small diameter bungee around the switch to stop it from moving.


    The latest generation Intova IFL 660 has a new switch. It's still a sliding magnetic switch, but it clicks into the on and off position, so it can't be switched on accidentally.