Posts by Wood Guy

More pics.

I like this gun! If I shot a long gun, I might just keep it for myself!

Bill

Here you go, Amigo. The finished, and so far, dry gun. I think you're gonna like it.

Here you go, Amigo. The finished, and so far, dry gun. I think you're gonna like it.

I made this mock up when I was fitting up the original line release (before we decided to use Tin Man's) but it works well for showing how the release fits into the gun. The first shows the release in the cocked position, then in the forward position before it has reset itself.

The next two pics show how the sleeve can be rotated using the little slot and a sharp punch. Once the sleeve has been rotated into the desired position the screw is tightened enough to hold it in place. In this case I rotated it about 270 degrees from the relaxed position. This gave te tab a nice crisp snap back into place after being released, but it can be set accorting to the shooter's personal preference.

Tin Man has a drawing that shows all of the dimensions and will post later. Everything is generic except the overall length of the sleeve, which depends on the location of the line release slot for a particular mech, and the shape of the line tab, which is somewhat generic but will have to be fit up to a particular gun and trigger mech.

Bill

I think the following series of pics will help. It looks complicated at first, but after having Tin Man help me install one it's pretty simple- not much more than installing any other line release. As with any line release, the placement of the line tab is the critical part. Tin Man did the design of the tab and it's placement in Autocad, but if I were doing it without his help I would build a little mock up (shown in the pics) and fit the shape and location of the tab that way.

Here's an "exploded" view of the components, followed by a view showing them assembled. Note the tiny hole (.040" I think) in the tab next to the bigger hole. If you look close you can also see the slot (.030 wide and .030 deep in the thick part of the sleeve. That little slot is also what you use to turn the torsional spring and put preload on the spring.

The next two pics show the trigger mech in the cocked, then in the uncocked position. In the first pic you can see the sear which comes down and holds the line tab in the cocked position. When the gun is fired the sear swings up and allows the tab to move backward (inside the mech) while the other end moves forward to release the shooting line. All of this is just the manually resetting part. With Tin Man's device the torsional spring immediately swings the tab back to the cocked position and holds it there until the shaft is inserted and the sear drops down to hold it when the line is wrapped around the tab.

In the next post I'll show what the resetting device looks like in a the "mock up" blank.

I looked at the pictures of the line release again and now I understand the confusion. The first picture doesn't show all of the shoulder that was eventually cut off. If you look at the second and third pictures you can see that the shoulder is now long enough to contain the spring and still have room for the sleeve (it's supposed to be .380" long and at first I had only made it .200" long, which is it's diameter.)

Pargo,

There is a small washer that sits on the bottom of the tab slot. The narrow part of the sleeve sits on that, allowing the narrow part of the sleeve to contain the spring windings. I didn't do as good a job with the pictures on the last two posts, and they don't show it very well.

Bill

Tin Man brought most of the stuff and all of the know how we needed to build and install the auto resetting line release he developed.

The release consists of the tab that holds the line, a torsion spring, a sleeve that holds the spring, and the screw that holds the assembly in place.

I had started making the sleeve out of 5/16" ss rod earlier, so I finished making the sleeve on the lathe. I cut the shoulder first, then bored a hole for the screw, then bored the countersink for the flathead screw.

Then we cut a tiny slit in the sleeve to hold the spring. Next I made the shooting line tab out of a piece of 1/8" ss plate that Tin Man had brought. He designed it on autocad to match the trigger mech, then I drilled the hole for the sleeve, a .030" hole for the spring, and cut it to shape. Then I sanded it smooth and rounded the edges on a belt sander.

Then I drilled a 5/16" hole in the gun down to the line release slot, then followed that with the pilot hole for the screw.

Next we trimmed the length of the spring ends and installed the assembly. First, we put the tab in the slot with a washer under it. Then we inserted the sleeve with the spring on it. The end of the spring needs to be in the small hole in the tab, and the other end needs to be in the slot. Then the screw goes in partway while the tiny slot in the sleeve is used to turn the sleeve and preload the torsion spring. Then the screw is tightened to hold the sleeve and spring in the pre-loaded position, and if we've done everything right we're good to go. We tried it with a shaft- perfect! A little more teak oil, Alvin, and your gun is good to go!

Tomorrow, I'll install the "funky handle" and the gun is ready to rig out and kill some grouper. The weather forcast calls for clearing weather for the next 3 days starting tomorrow, Alvin. I think your luck has run out!

Tin Man brought most of the stuff and all of the know how we needed to build and install the auto resetting line release he developed.

The release consists of the tab that holds the line, a torsion spring, a sleeve that holds the spring, and the screw that holds the assembly in place.

I had started making the sleeve out of 5/16" ss rod earlier, so I finished making the sleeve on the lathe. I cut the shoulder first, then bored a hole for the screw, then bored the countersink for the flathead screw.

Then we cut a tiny slit in the sleeve to hold the spring.

Next I made the shooting line tab out of a piece of 1/8" ss plate that Tin Man had brought. He designed it on autocad to match the trigger mech, then I drilled the hole for the sleeve, a .030" hole for the spring, and cut it to shape. Then I sanded it smooth and rounded the edges on a belt sander.

Then I drilled a 5/16" hole in the gun down to the line release slot, then followed that with the pilot hole for the screw.

Next we trimmed the length of the spring ends and installed the assembly. First, we put the tab in the slot with a washer under it. Then we inserted the sleeve with the spring on it. The end of the spring needs to be in the small hole in the tab, and the other end needs to be in the slot. Then the screw goes in partway while the tiny slot in the sleeve is used to turn the sleeve and preload the torsion spring. Then the screw is tightened to hold the sleeve and spring in the pre-loaded position, and if we've done everything right we're good to go. We tried it with a shaft- perfect! A little more teak oil, Alvin, and your gun is good to go!

Tomorrow, I'll install the "funky handle" and the gun is ready to rig out and kill some grouper. The weather forcast calls for clearing weather for the next 3 days starting tomorrow, Alvin. I think your luck has run out!

Rained all day- perfect weather to work on a speargun.

First, I finished the muzzle slot and spacer. I had cut the slot but the thin piece vibrated when I cut it on the table saw, so I put it in the mill and cleaned it up with a 1/8" extra long end mill. Then, using a forstner bit, I drilled a 3/8" hole through both parts of the band slot and installed the screw in insert, bedded in epoxy.

Next I cut the 1/8 delrin piece that Tin man had brought a little oversized and inserted it into the slot and clamped it. Then I cut a teak plug from a section of the blank I had left over when I cut off the handle, and glued it into the top portion. The delrin acts as a plug on the bottom, keeping the epoxy from getting down into the threads. After the epoxy had dried, I recessed the hole with an end mill, then drilled the hole for the screw.

After I put the screw in I used the 1/2" end mill to trim the inside of the slot. I used a file and sandpaper to shape the outside of the delrin to the shape of the muzzle and remove the ezcess epoxy. A little teak oil and the muzzle is done.

Next post- Tin Man's auto resetting line release.

Rained all day- perfect weather to work on a speargun.

First, I finished the muzzle slot and spacer. I had cut the slot but the thin piece vibrated when I cut it on the table saw, so I put it in the mill and cleaned it up with a 1/8" extra long end mill. Then, using a forstner bit, I drilled a 3/8" hole through both parts of the band slot and installed the screw in insert, bedded in epoxy.

Next I cut the 1/8 delrin piece that Tin man had brought a little oversized and inserted it into the slot and clamped it. Then I cut a teak plug from a section of the blank I had left over when I cut off the handle, and glued it into the top portion. The delrin acts as a plug on the bottom, keeping the epoxy from getting down into the threads. After the epoxy had dried, I recessed the hole with an end mill, then drilled the hole for the screw.

After I put the screw in I used the 1/2" end mill to trim the inside of the slot. I used a file and sandpaper to shape the outside of the delrin to the shape of the muzzle and remove the ezcess epoxy. A little teak oil and the muzzle is done.

Next post- Tin Man's auto resetting line release.

I got the ballast cover sanded and the little slot cut in the muzzle for the shooting line. Then I finish sanded the gun and put two coats of teak oil on it. All that's left now is to finish the band loading slot and fabricate and install Tin Man's auto setting line release, both of which we'll do when he gets here Sat. pm.

This is some of the most highly figured FEQ teak I've seen- sure makes for a pretty looking gun. I don't think the pictures do it justice.

Here's the handle that started it all- Tin Man's original multi colored shapelock. It's what got Alvin thinking about the multi colored red, white, and black handle.

Next post- Tin Man's auto setting line release and the finished product.

Hey Tin Man, shame to see that gun sitting here while we're diving. Think he'd know if we shot something with it and cleaned it up really, really good? I mean, we have to know it shoots straight, right? We wouldn't want Alvin to shoot and miss because we didn't build an accurate shooting gun, right? It almost seems like an OBLIGATION to try it out, right?

I tried to post earlier but the server was down. I got the ballast cover sanded and the little slot cut in the muzzle for the shooting line. Then I finish sanded the gun and put two coats of teak oil on it. All that's left now is to finish the band loading slot and fabricate and install Tin Man's auto setting line release, both of which we'll do when he gets here Sat. pm.

This is some of the most highly figured FEQ teak I've seen- sure makes for a pretty looking gun. I don't think the pictures do it justice.

Here's the handle that started it all- Tin Man's original multi colored shapelock. It's what got Alvin thinking about the multi colored red, white, and black handle.

Next post- Tin Man's auto setting line release and the finished product.

Hey Tin Man, shame to see that gun sitting here while we're diving. Think he'd know if we shot something with it and cleaned it up really, really good? I mean, we have to know it shoots straight, right? We wouldn't want Alvin to shoot and miss because we didn't build an accurate shooting gun, right? It almost seems like an OBLIGATION to try it out, right?

We're getting close now, Amigo. I decided to finish the butt pad first, then work on the band wishbone slot, then glue the ballast cover on last so it could dry overnight.

I placed tape on the butt of the gun and marked where I wanted the screw holes. Then I transferred the tape to the butt pad and drilled the screw holes. Then I turned the pad over and countersunk the holes with a forstner bid about 1/2" into the pad.

Then I mounted the butt pad onto the gun.

SWEET!

Next, I cut the slot for the band wishbones. My plan was to cut a slice from the piece of stock that I cut off the butt. I cut the slice and sanded it but decided to wait for Tin Man to come over this weekend. He's bringing his slotting saw attachment for the mill and I'll be able to trim the slot much more accurately that way rather than sanding it. He's also bringing a 1/8" piece of delrin that we can use for the spacer in the slot. So I'll finish the slot then.

I glued on the cover and put the blank away to rest for the night.

I needed to make a butt pad for my own gun, and I liked the round overs on Alvin's gun so well that I stripped mine and rounded over the top and bottom, then made a butt pad similar to Alvin's. Tomorrow I'll sand the ballast cover and file the little slot in the muzzle for the shooting line. Then I'll finish sand it and get some oil on it.

Almost ready, Alvin.

We're getting close now, Amigo. I decided to finish the butt pad first, then work on the band wishbone slot, then glue the ballast cover on last so it could dry overnight.

I placed tape on the butt of the gun and marked where I wanted the screw holes. Then I transferred the tape to the butt pad and drilled the screw holes. Then I turned the pad over and countersunk the holes with a forstner bid about 1/2" into the pad.

Then I mounted the butt pad onto the gun.

SWEET!

Next, I cut the slot for the band wishbones.

My plan was to cut a slice from the piece of stock that I cut off the butt. I cut the slice and sanded it but decided to wait for Tin Man to come over this weekend.

\
He's bringing his slotting saw attachment for the mill and I'll be able to trim the slot much more accurately that way rather than sanding it. He's also bringing a 1/8" piece of delrin that we can use for the spacer in the slot. So I'll finish the slot then. I glued on the cover and put the blank away to rest for the night.

I needed to make a butt pad for my own gun, and I liked the round overs on Alvin's gun so well that I stripped mine and rounded over the top and bottom, then made a butt pad similar to Alvin's. Tomorrow I'll sand the ballast cover and file the little slot in the muzzle for the shooting line. Then I'll finish sand it and get some oil on it.

Almost ready, Alvin.

I mounted the blank in the mill, and milled a pocket to hold the little ingot. I also milled a 1/8" deep shoulder for a cover plate. After drilling the ballast, I inserted it into the milled pocket and fastened it with 2 ss screws.

Next, I took tape and marked the opening. Then I transferred the tape to a 3/16" thick piece of teak that I ripped. After cutting the shape out on the bandsaw, I sanded it to fit.

Cervases time, Amigo!. Tomorrow, I'll glue the cover in place and finish the butt pad. Then it's on th the slot for the band loading.

I mounted the blank in the mill, and milled a pocket to hold the little ingot. I also milled a 1/8" deep shoulder for a cover plate. After drilling the ballast, I inserted it into the milled pocket and fastened it with 2 ss screws.

Next, I took tape and marked the opening. Then I transferred the tape to a 3/16" thick piece of teak that I ripped. After cutting the shape out on the bandsaw, I sanded it to fit.

Cervases time, Amigo!. Tomorrow, I'll glue the cover in place and finish the butt pad. Then it's on th the slot for the band loading.

My goal for today was to do the ballasting and the butt pad.

I had left the butt of the blank long on purpose, until we could see what it looked like with the handle mounted. Originally, Alvin wanted the butt to end 3" behind the trigger mech, but after looking at the handle placement, he decided 3.75 would be better. I put tape over the blank to prevent tear out, and cut the blank.

I originally planned to ballast the gun without the pad, but when I realizrd how heavy the pad was , I decided to cut it out and put it on the blank temporarily while I ballasted the gun. Alvin decided to go with a butt pad made from an oversized rubber stopper (yet another Tin Man idea). It's just the right amount of firmness to give support without pain when chest loading, and the price is right at about $6 from Mcmaster. I cut out the pad on a bandsaw and shaped it using a belt sander and a drum sander in a drill press (the little drum sander is also how I cut out the recess for the handle.

I fastened the pad to the butt temporarily because until I knew where and how much ballast I would need, I didn't want to drill holes in the end of the blank.

I rigged the blank with a mesh bag and headed out to the dock. It was too cold to get in the water so I used my litle fishing skiff. Good thing I didn't predrill the hole in the blank. Because of the shaft overhang, I expected the blank to be a little nose heacvy, allowing me to put the ballast right in front of the butt. Not so. I ended up with 10 oz. of ballast, 36" back from the muzzle end. The gun barely sank with the 9/32" shaft, and floated without the shaft, just the way Alvin wanted it. I marked the spot with the orange cable tie.

Next, I made a mold by screwing two pieces of wood together and milling out a recess. I calculated I would need a 3/4" wide by .7" deep "ingot" 3" long for the 10oz. weight so that's what I milled out for the mold.

Next post: Installing the ballast.

My goal for today was to do the ballasting and the butt pad.

I had left the butt of the blank long on purpose, until we could see what it looked like with the handle mounted. Originally, Alvin wanted the butt to end 3" behind the trigger mech, but after looking at the handle placement, he decided 3.75 would be better. I put tape over the blank to prevent tear out, and cut the blank.

I originally planned to ballast the gun without the pad, but when I realizrd how heavy the pad was , I decided to cut it out and put it on the blank temporarily while I ballasted the gun. Alvin decided to go with a butt pad made from an oversized rubber stopper (yet another Tin Man idea). It's just the right amount of firmness to give support without pain when chest loading, and the price is right at about $6 from Mcmaster. I cut out the pad on a bandsaw and shaped it using a belt sander and a drum sander in a drill press (the little drum sander is also how I cut out the recess for the handle.

I fastened the pad to the butt temporarily because until I knew where and how much ballast I would need, I didn't want to drill holes in the end of the blank.

I rigged the blank with a mesh bag and headed out to the dock. It was too cold to get in the water so I used my litle fishing skiff. Good thing I didn't predrill the hole in the blank. Because of the shaft overhang, I expected the blank to be a little nose heacvy, allowing me to put the ballast right in front of the butt. Not so. I ended up with 10 oz. of ballast, 36" back from the muzzle end. The gun barely sank with the 9/32" shaft, and floated without the shaft, just the way Alvin wanted it. I marked the spot with the orange cable tie.

Next, I made a mold by screwing two pieces of wood together and milling out a recess. I calculated I would need a 3/4" wide by .7" deep "ingot" 3" long for the 10oz. weight so that's what I milled out for the mold.

Next post: Installing the ballast.

For the tapering I did of the blank in general, I used my jointer since I was only taking 1/4" off the bottom, and 1/8" off each side. The further along I get with a blank (or any furniture related project, for that matter), the more careful I get. Using my long bed jointer I'm less likely to screw up than the table saw, but there is no reason the table saw won't work for tapering. I marked lines on the blank where the taper would be, then I just planed off the material until I got to the line. I got the taper by lifting the butt end of the gun off the table while I was planing. By taking small cuts I could tell where I needed to take more off, and where I didn't need to remove as much.

If you're using a table saw, the best way is to use an angle gauge.

For the little recess I used a small drum on the drill press. I cut a hole in a piece of plywood the size of the drum so the bottom of the drum could project a little ways below the blank. I also used this to shape the rubber butt pad Ill show in a later post. I'll show a picture of it then.