Posts by fuzz

    For what it's worth, I use regular nylon line that's a bit rough exterior, no wax. One constrictor knot... never had one fail yet.

    As a random side thought - thank you to Jeff & Chad! :thumbsup2:


    Your outside-the-box thinking, testing of new materials, and willingness to share all breathe new life into the industry. I would probably never have heard of half the things you've mentioned & your openness are both respected and appreciated. :cool2:




    Stuff like that just doesn't get said enough. ;)

    I think the Shapelock is plenty strong enough for a muzzle, if the band slot or holes were closed (without an insertion slot).


    I've heard references in a couple places that say that Polycaprolactone isn't UV stable and it needs a UV stabilizer like some epoxies. Can't confirm or deny it, but good thing to look into if used for something load bearing like a muzzle. In a handle, not nearly as critical.





    If you have spare time... you can use shapelock to make your own personal android. :)
    http://www.xrobots.co.uk/android10.htm

    I get it from www.shapelock.com. I asked once about lower pricing for larger orders, but they weren't receptive. At one point, I tracked down the material, and found I could get a pretty good price, but had to buy several hundred pounds, so I gave up.


    There is another product called "Friendly Plastic" that comes in colored strips. It may be the same stuff, but I have never tried it.


    From what I've seen, friendly plastic is the same... but a bit pricier. Good alternative if you're looking to make some psychedelic colored handles. :D

    Oh yea, this is starting to get better an better, because the shapelock is clear UNLESS you add color.
    I love clear stuff, except my underwear and my mask skirt:D
    I went to shapelocks web site and it seems bare of instructions, specifications, etc.
    Tin Man, you said "measure out" the amount you need, how it that done?
    How do you knead it when it is 150F?


    Hau, it's white. It gets a bit translucent when heating up, but it'll be white when it's cooled down and set... unless you color it, of course. ;)

    I haven't had any trouble with the Shapelock on my hot aluminum boat in the summer. But I guess a hot car in the sun might be asking too much.


    It didn't melt completely, but did slump and needed to be reshaped. On the flip-side, I remember leaving a football mouthguard on my dashboard years ago... and it reduced to a 1/4" puddle of plastic. :laughing3:


    During summer, I left a shapelock handle in the sun... but other than being warm, didn't seem to affect structural integrity. The car... was a bit too much for the poor handle. :(




    (It was an aluminum frame too - thought I should mention that. Figured that'd make a diff as it transmits heat easier to inside the handle.)


    The thing you can change in the gun is it's weight you CANNOT change the buoyant force of the gun without changing the shape and size of the gun.


    That is why I was trying to say the Buoyant Force of the gun is not the determining factor if you want the gun to sink, float or stay neutral.



    I understand what you're trying to say, but this thread has been a very convoluted way of getting your point across. Semantics.






    How's this for a wrap-up summary?
    Very simple - only 2 relevant vertical forces. If one's a constant, the other is the variable determining force.

    • If buoyancy force (displacement volume) is constant, then changing weight (and average density) of the object will affect its NET buoyancy. (Your point)
    • If weight is constant, then changing shape/size (volume) of gun will change the buoyancy force and therefore affect its NET buoyancy.

    The knuckle dragger,short bus kinda special or the damn he is right kinda special.


    Why did you delete your post Fuzz?



    My mommy says I'm special... I'm not sure which type she's referring to either... :crazy:



    If you read my post, I was agreeing with Tin Man's assertion that much of the confusion is semantics-based. Net effects aside, I also agreed with you that the buoyancy FORCE for both bottles in your example is the same. Forgive my gratuitous use of googled physics images... I thought the images along with a description would help alleviate some of the misunderstandings. I deleted the post because you seem more inclined to continue bickering. This is a very basic physics principle, with only two relevant vertical forces. Why you choose to make it more difficult than it needs to be... is beyond my comprehension.








    you pop your head in and copy and paste something from Google that you obviously do not understand. Everyone is a genius because of Google these days. Along with quick quips and funny emot-icons internet forums have become a dangerous place for knowledge.


    This quote is why I deleted my post. I do fully understand the material. I also fully understand what Tin Man has been saying. Just don't want to get caught up in silly bullshit... I can go to Spearboard for that. :thumbsup2:




    I like you... you're "special" :)

    Don't look to me, I don't like shooting WSB over 50# I like the firmer meat of the 25# to 40# fish.
    If I see one in the 90's I'll do my best though.:D All my bets are on you or Fuzz.;)
    My kid's baseball games are my new passion.
    Cheers, Don


    I like the 30-36" babies... MUCH better quality eating, IMO.


    Got a few really nice ones and never really had the urge or drive to go trophy hunting since. :)




    Great job Mike! You're truly the Halibut master! :cool2:
    Wish I lived closer to the ocean, it's such a long trek to the water from my place. :(

    I saw the figts they were pretty good. bj penn at his best. you know that diego wasn't looking good. I think he lost way to many pounds and wasn't confortable in that category.


    Diego has looked really sharp at 155 in past matches... but eating a few of Penn's punches right off the bat will cause you to look off pretty quick. ;)


    Almost felt bad for Diego - his tenacity and determination are admirable. It wasn't a matter of a poor game plan, Penn just outclassed him in every aspect. :cool2:




    As a huge Penn fan, I am so STOKED to see him in such prime shape. This fight showed so much morethan a quick knockout or submission... I hope Penn continues to find the motivation to prepare and put on these epic performances! :thumbsup2:


    3. Protect my spear shaft from injury while the shaft is in the gun. Less scratches and dings to the spear shaft "enclosed" in the CF


    This is the first time I've ever heard someone say they wanted to use a carbon fiber gun... as a sacrificial buffer to protect their shaft. :laughing3:




    If I'm not mistaken, Chad filled the tube with a wood dowl, and had to add the bun later to get the balance right. The whole point of a euro is to keep the profile small, yes?


    You're correct - he posted that the bun was added to help balance. I was thinking of the hot dog bun as a way to use a base sturdy structure and add reinforcement, mass, and enclosed track at same time. I don't think of well-positioned mass as a negative.


    The point of a euro(and railguns) is indeed to keep profile small, but that's a relative distinction and subject to an individual's preference. You have the following cross-sections:
    Standard euroguns & railguns like Rob Allen (28mm)
    -and-
    Thicker euros, meant for more power:
    Aimrite railguns, ranging from standard to the King Venom
    Edge railgun (32mm)
    Riffe Euros (debatable)
    Sea Sniper euros
    Sea Sniper ENCLOSED euros
    Abellan euros
    Bluetec euros
    etc.


    From a pure power/accuracy standpoint, I would think that any gun with band power that necessitates an enclosed track... should be made with a bigger cross-section than a standard railgun. Not huge, but slightly bigger to manage recoil.


    If you're using standard power, a slightly oblique teak barrel could also be made near the same dimensions as a standard railgun barrel (with enclosed track added). At that power level, it would shoot well and resist bending.



    All that being said, you both obviously have a vision in mind and whatever my personal bias is, I'm eager to see what the final product is. Jeff on a mission usually results in fun stuff. :)






    I have some CF tube scraps, but don't think any are standard railgun diameters. Does that matter for your tests?

    I think that as a stick of wood gets ever longer and skinnier, it gets harder to keep it straight, both during manufacturing, and from later warping. For a long skinny tube that may get abused on small boat dives, I think that carbon fiber is about as bullet proof a material as you can get.


    I was thinking a thin wood jacket over a tube, similar to Chad's hot dog bun. The top could be left higher to make an enclosed track. :)
    http://spearboard.com/showpost.php?p=428044&postcount=27


    That way, you can use any cheapish euro with a decent trigger mech... and have the option of using the stock muzzle OR using the wood to cap a smaller gun barrel and cut band slots. ;)


    Did you ever convert that Tito gun to an open muzzle?


    Looks like a quick simple solution. It'd probably work better with just straight CF tubing - no worries about griding the rail funny and compromising structural integrity. If you don't mind me asking, where do you source your G10 from?



    As I mentioned above, I don't see why the wooden barrel route wouldn't work well... :confused1:


    And in the big picture (& to echo Marco's sentiments)... I'm not sure what Hau is specifically trying to accomplish by this other than the novelty of it. Mario (in the link above) successfully enclosed a track on his euro, but he also added ballast... so potentially overpowering it would be mitigated by the extra mass.

    One of my buddies(Mario) that works out of the same workshop did something similar to this using a fiber-wound epoxy tubing for the enclosed track. Here's a thread on it - the gun looks big, but he added 2 side ballast tubes which are not necessary if you want a traditional euro shape.
    http://spearboard.com/showthread.php?t=36805



    While it's fun to tinker, I don't see why you don't just fashion a wooden barrel and attach it to a RA handle? I have a couple home made wooden barrels with OD just slightly larger than a railgun. It would be a simple matter to make these barrels a 1/4" taller and make the track enclosed. I just never bothered to go enclosed since they seem to shoot well on their own. But it's very easy to do...


    Out of coincidence, both my wooden euros use Beuchat handles, one Marlin & one Mundial. Some friends have made them using a wide variety of other euro handles (i.e. sporasub, RA, omer, etc). Likewise, I have a Totemsub Tahiti-Lthat uses a Demka handle with a wooden barrel. They work well, shoot quiet, and look great.

    Just FYI an not to derail, but I went here: http://www.imersion.us/
    and saw a lot of what was to me new ideas, like adjustable angle gun handles [would make shipping a gun much easier also to just unscrew the pivot screw an remove the whole grip], inside barrel floatation foam,adjustable triggers, titanium spears, etc


    To continue derail... (sorry, had to comment)


    The adjustable gun handles there have been around for a long time, Their base adjustable model, the Concept Pro, has been offered since ~2000. I got my first one in 2002 & one of my dive buddies in 2001. The handles are nice to store/pack in gun tubes, but we did break one. Only one I still use is a small 55cm hole gun. Good idea, just wish a more rugged/ergonomic version was available.


    The inside barrel floation foam has been around far longer, in their classic Merou D'or line from the 90's. It's a poor substitute for sealing plugs. The foam is literally like styrofoam and doesn't stand up to deep diving - compresses & doesn't come back over time. The empty space then just fills with water. :(


    Adjustable triggers have been around in many euro mechs for a long time in Esclapez/Imersion & other companies, i.e. the Beuchat Mundial.


    Due to price, I've never tried their titanium spears... but from reviews a few years ago, doesn't look like I've missed anything. Basically increased the cross-section (& drag) with lighter mass (inertia). Like the Picasso carbon jacketted shafts... more of a novelty than serious tool.