Posts by flymike

What part of NZ are you basing yourself at Yardsale??

Spearo's Corner sponsored by Ruku Blades NZ - The Fishing Website Forums - Page 1

Let people know when your here mate, lotsa locals willing to help out. Just post that ya coming over:thumbsup2:

Dan, I use engine oil for a release agent when bedding rifle actions, I just dip the hold down screws in oil then wipe off the excess. Of course if there are any notches or anything in the screws and the epoxy gets in, you may end up with it locked in. Maybe you could use the smallest screws possible then just drill then out with a larger bit?? (if that suits)

I think there power coated. You could easily strip the barrel and get it re coated in almost any color, cant do much detail though. And if you wanted to get all artistic on it maby you could polyurethane over it, but it would be easy to chip and once the salt got in to the alloy it would start oxiding/caroding.

Nice one mate, well done

Ive been reading a few wrightups on this type of build (euro handle mounted to a wooden barrel and some with a plastic muzzle).

For something diffrent to build up,

Has anyone on here built up one of these setups?

This is a good example

SettingSteel Spearfishing: The Squirrels Euro Enclosed Track Speargun

Any pics or links would be great, to help me work through a build in my head:crazy:

Thanks Guys

Quote from japsw

x2. Awesome gun

X2 X2 Awesome gun

Quote from Don Paul

Mike, that is a New Zealand version of the Aussie Undersee mech. Jay Riffe used these for while in the early days of his Riffe speargun business when the Aussie's quit selling him the UnderSea for his gun.

The early ones had a brass sear and trigger which was nickle plated, but they may have changed to SS.

I would not exceed 2 5/8 bands if the trigger is brass, what used to yield, and let the gun pre-fire was the rivet that the sear pivoted on. You can scratch/file the surface of the trigger to see if brass/Bronze is the parent metal. That mech you's t to be used in the Kiwi gun called '' The Gun'' and had plastic handle and nicely varnished mahogany barrel.

Cheers, Don

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Got the mech and started working on my stock to fit it last night. Its made of nickle coated brass (and the qualitys prety shit, expected though), had to cut the trigger down 8mm to get it in the neptonics handle frame, chose this over the ulusub in the end, easer to install. I did only have to machine a 8mm slot in my stock, so if it dose fail it will be easy to set in another trigger. Will try to get up some pics tonight:laughing:

Right, went to look at said trigger mech last night.
Forgot to grab my calipers.....:crazy:
But took my 1/2 finished wooden blank with me.

when I put the trigger on the side of the blank roughly at the hight of where the rail will be, it seams ok.
Im going to use a Ulusub handle I think, so Il get the handle and trigger soon and hopefuly thay mesh ok.

One thing I did notice was a long trigger pull, they didnt have a shaft that fitted snugly (alittle rounding of the back of the shaft is needed aparently) so I could'nt see where it released. Im going to check all of this befor a buy it of course.

Thanks Guys

Im going to look at them again tonight, and Il get some dimentions to see if it will fit my blank.

I think these guys brought up the last of the stock avalible hear.

I was planning to run 2x 5/8 bands,
Im unsure of what thay'er made, but will find out.

Thanks

Aparently its the old prodive mech

Any one ever used one of these? or anything similer?
It don't cost much, but that might not be a good sign:laughing:

If you have seen/used them befor, any problems?

Cheers
Mike

Right......
So...
Have been gifted a piece of eucalyptus hardwood, 15+ years aged,
the guy I got it of and a freind who used the same wood for a couple of projects, both outdoor and in,
have both said the timber has never worped or moved in years after said projects were compleated.

I now have a solid blank 50mm x 40mm cut, sanded and sitting ready for the next stage. pics to come.
looking at a neptonics reef mech and handle frame, once those are in my posetion il hit the bench router and fit it all up.

My wood may not be the best choice (it was free) but after reading and listening, I can allways build another gun later on.

Il keep this thread going as my build thread, so you can all watch me make mistakes

Thanks Guys

Very nice mate:thumbsup2:

Did you laminate the wood or is it one peice?

Quote from Don Paul

Mike, since you want a oil finish I would lean toward teak, you don't even need to laminate on a short gun in the 110cm range.

I think Im going to have to make a laminated blank as the timber iv been finding is quite expensive, but offcuts of planks not so much. Iv found heaps of cover flooring offcuts for good prices, 8-10mm thickness and many diffrent lengths. Last night I found a local boat cabnet maker who works alot with high quality marine grade teak, giving them a ring today. If I could find a 50mmx50mmx2000mm peice Id be stoked:cool2:. Il let ya know how I get on.

Question.....

If I can get a single peice of teak..
At what gun length would I have to consider a laminated blank?? (as opposed to a single unlaminated peice)
My goal is a 130cm gun, Is that to long?
Is it just a better practice to laminate the blank?

Thanks Guys
Mike

[quote='Don Paul','http://spearfishing.world/forums/index.php?thread/&postID=61959#post61959']You don't need a ET for a 7mm with twin 16mm bands, I would go deep open track mate. If one of those Kingies gets real friendly 3ft off the tip you wont blow the ET apart.;)

Good point, wasn thinking realy thinking of that!

Back to the wood questions, I have a freind who has just milled up alot of eucalyptus, real nice stright/tight grain, would the oils in eucalyptus have similer propertys to those in teak?. Only thing with this stuff is it was live trees 3 months ago.

Is there a minimum/maximum lamination thickness I should consider for strength? (I guess this depends on the wood propertys as well)
I mean if I cut them to thick or thin would I loose something in the lamination process (to many layers of resin maby?)

Thanks Guys :rolleyes1:

Quote from Don Paul

OK mate, first some questions..

1.When one is going to build a tool, craft, car or boat we need to ask: What do I want this creation to do?
In the case of a speargun...what is the target species? as a dedicated Tuna/Wahoo gun will have different requirements than something for John Dory.

2. What kind of duty cycle and abuse will it see? ...teak will take more impact abuse than Honduran Mahogany as a example.

3. Do you want to have a oil finish or seal it in a Varnish or Epoxy?

4. What tools do you have at your disposal ?

Back later....

Cheers, Don

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Well the plan is

Round 130cm kingfish gun, 7-7.5mm shaft, twin 16mm rubbers

Oil finish, I like the matt that comes out

Between me and my mates I have most things available.

Plan to have an enclosed track probably wood
will use neptonics handle frame and reef mech, been toying around with a remote trigger or reverse trigger, to get the most out of the length.
Break away line release

Im quite picky over details so ill build the best I can the first time, and if it needs improvement I hope it will be in design and not in quality.

Really I dont think Il use it much, once finished ill be to scared to damage it. But ya never know

The flooring material Im looking at is just the cover type, to go over concrete or chipboard, hence the 8mm its not very heavy but probably not very strong either, which is why Im looking at laminating.

The natural oils in teak do seam quite important in longevity. Can this be achieved artificially??, dose it also help with buoyancy??

Hi Blankwalker

Have been wondering about the no answer thing, but I am new I guess.

Haddent realy thought about "health issues":cool2:,
If the gun came out to heavy could you mill out and maby fill with something to make it ballence better?,
Or do you think it would still be hard to track with, even being lighter.

Localy iv found a few places selling wood flooring in all kinds of thicknesses 8mm - 19mm, non in teak but Matai, Rimu, Totara all natives to New Zealand and very nice woods with very few knots and tight grains.

Also been looking at second hand flooring, Very nice aged (sum 50-100years old) 19mmx100mm lengths, thay do have nail holes 20mm in from each side, but if I trimm thoses off would still leave me with 60mm to play with. Only problem is that its for sale in bulk lots in auction starting at $1, most wave only gone for $5 but I would have to take a whole 10m2.

Im waiting to hear from a freind of a freind who has made a few guns now and works in the timber industry, just to get some advice on what worked best for him.

Hi Guys,

After looking through this fourm for the last cople of days and reading alot of opinions on wood choice for blanks, im still undecided. I think alot of people use a certin type of timber just becouse others have.

So simple question time

What characteristics makes a GOOD choice for a laminated blank?
What characteristics makes a BAD choice for a laminated blank?

Strength?
Hardness?
Ease of machining/working?
Stiffness?
Ageing qualites?
???

I dont want to know what wood I should use at the moment.
I want to know what to look for in making a wood choice

Hope a few of you more talented builders can point me in the right direction

Also have any of you used any type of wood that didnt work? and do you know why??

After I read afew replies Im going to try and find something local/native? that may do the job

Thanks Heaps
Mike

Hi guys,

Names Mike, aka Flymike.
Living in Auckland New Zealand, got in to spearing about 10 years back, but put it on the side to perssue other things, BUT getting back in to it now.
Im realy in to the tech side of it and am going to build myself a wooden gun this winter.
Cant say Ive pind much since I got back into it, shity weather and a mid summer cold hasnt helped!!.

I found this site wile reading up on builds, some very talented people on this forum:thumbsup2:.
Have got'en realy into some of the picture heavy build rundowns and DIY's.

Looking forward to some of you answering my NEWBY build questions

Thanks in advance

Mike