Posts by Spearo_fla

    I have been asked a lot lately about my breathing technic. I posted this sometime back on SB. So today, I posted it on my blog. I have included it in my new book. So feel free to add comments or just visit my blog.

    Unless I think there is a target between me and the bottom then right I don't usually look till I'm horizontal.


    Again, looking down will only decrease your drop time. This depends greatly upon your normal diving depth, mine is usually between 50-70. If viz is bad I can't see the bottom anyways.


    I use a Macbook mostly, with Safari.

    Well Dan if the bottom is 60 ft away you don't need to be looking down unless you saw a 60 lb. Carbo from the surface. Maximizing your bottom time is what it is all about, sacrificing you descent time will eventually sacrifice your total underwater time not just your bottom time.


    Getting to the bottom quickly and efficiantly (sp) is your best option.

    Let's start with some basics. To me it appears to be a wooden stock gun with an old Aimrite handle and may have an old Aimrite trigger mechanism also, based on the pin configuration.


    Tin as far as stress I have own Wong guns with aimrite parts for over 10 years. I have never had a handle break away from the stock, and I have removed my handles many times. Another thing tin- you can run your truck over those handles and they won't break.


    As far as the pin line wrap at the muzzle end if I remember correctly both Wong and Riffe used these in the beginning. I never had an issue with them. If they are glued in they wont spin.


    Overall $400 dollars for a 55" wood gun I think isn't a bad price. A Wong 55" wooden gun is $780 A Riffe 55" Wood gun will set you back over $550.

    The volume of air in your lungs does affect you bouyancy, but on the surface you shouldn't have to struggle to stay high enough to breath thru your snorkle. 40 ft is deep, swim to 30 ft then stop kicking what happens? It may be slow at first, but you should increase speed with depth.


    Also try to stay Hydrodynamic, looking down arches the back and then it looks like a banana sinking in the water. Stay Hydodynamic, by not looking down, keep your arms close to your body, after you feel the freefall use your fins to level out or change directions. In current, use you side into current not your back or front. Look down just long enough at the beginning to see that you are indeed vertical and not at an angle. then return your head so your looking upside down across the water column. Hope this helps...


    Dive Safe
    John

    I sold two of those guns recently, it is a 50" Closed track gun by Daryl Wong. I've also lost two of those guns off of Ft. Lauderdale in 90 ft of water,saving my buddy during a SWB.

    Let's talk the right way - however you choose to change it is up to you.


    Properly weighted depends alot on depth diving. Other variables include individual characterics and suit issues.


    Taking away varables and diving the third reef of Ft. Lauderdale 45-100 ft. A diver should be neutral at 25-30 ft. This gives a diver approximately 10 kicks before he can be motionless or this is the part I like best "freediving".


    Weighting yourself with the less amount of weight is always the safeist practice.


    If you think your safe at 30 ft, then your mistaken. Most divers will be over confident in this range and attempt repeated fast dives in this range. This is where I have witnessed many times sambas or near SWB.


    Spending 2-3 minutes at the surface is always recommended. Your heart rate will be at rest in 1 min. and you will think its time to go down again, resist this and spend necessary time recoverying on the surface.

    With two freediving clubs and a scuba spearfishing club in the Ft. Lauderdale area, don't be so nieve to think your the only divers hitting the reefs in 60-80ft. In fact, I know plenty that do 80-100ft.


    Marco- we'll switch off, you come here and do my job 6 mons. of the year and I'll go to PR and dive Mona for Ono for 6 mons.