BTW I tried that Mako gun and it was accurate. I got a solid mid body shot on a small porgy the first time I fired the gun. Steven says it was about 10ft away which is a good distance. Maybe the accuracy was due to the fact that he has it rigged with only one 16mm band. I found that weaker bands which is similar to one band make for a smoother shot, the down side is decreased penetration.
The Mako handle is uncomfortable, it would've been even more uncomfortable if Steven didn't have the loading butt off of it. The plastic of the handle looks cheap, I don't know if it's strong, tomorrow maybe I'll drop a brick on it to see. The Mako muzzle is not bad, but the holes are too big for the 16mm band and it flops around in there. The shaft was rusted to shit, it was funny because the little pins for the wishbone were shiny stainless steel. I also found loading, I mean just getting the shaft in the mech and track to be a PITA. But I suppose that particular aspect of it is no better or worse than any other rail gun.
Steven, please beat the shit out of that handle. I need to know if it has weaknesses. Don't worry about it breaking, if it does I'll set you up with another.
I am almost sure you were using an open muzzle railgun. The open muzzle makes loading a pain in the ass. Its almost as you have to guide the shaft down the entire rail. I like closed muzzle just like loading a wood gun if not quicker.
Is the band 16mm or 19mm??
Another thing with railguns is the mono usually gets in the way when inserting the shaft into the trigger mech. This problem is easily solved by either using a shaft with a second hole
below the first notch or making the loop and crimp where the shaft attaches to the shaft a larger loop that would allow for smooth and quick engagement.
The loading butt is a PITA on mako guns. I would remove it. Plus you it will give you a more clear look of your arm before shooting. LOL
Did you replace the trigger mech along with the handle??
