Posts by japsw

    The gun I built last summer has the trigger mech pocket cut all the way through.and it has held up fine. There arent many, if any, forces up and down on the mech. Almost all of the forces are focused on either the pins or the front wall of the pocket. As long as those two elements are solid you wont have a problem.


    I think it looks fine. NIce work and Im really interested to see how the automotive clear holds up.


    Thanks, the clear should hold up fine, I've been painting boats with it for a few years as well as some other manufactures like Renegade, Motion etc... My last boat would stay in the water 2 weeks at a time and never had a problem

    Thanks guy for the words, dont really think of it as a mistake on such a low profile gun, I like to leave a small 'shelf' between the trigger mech and handle, if I were to recess it anymore the mech pocket would have to be routed all the way through leaving the only support of the front and rear of the mech sustained by the sides ( which are on the thin side also) only other option would be to shave down the handle


    crazy stuff :@ please post a pic of that shaft

    white girl booty <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x"> gets the job done though

    There's something I'm not clear on. The base plate of the handle is thick, that's a good thing. When you say there's no room to recess it, why is that? The only thing I can envision it running into is the bottom of the mech. Is that the case? If so maybe you can put the handle on a belt sander and take some thickness off the base plate. Although looking at the pic I don't think you can take off enough to make it flush without considerably weakening it. I would then also try grinding off some of the bottom of the mech housing. Between the two adjustments it should recess fine.


    What is the height of that neptonics mech?


    Actual housing is 1" but the spring and sear need another 1/4" clearence

    Thanks guys, the handle looks to be composite fiber blend they're pretty heavy too. I didn't recess it deeper since the blank is only 1.6" height and the top plate of the handle is pretty thick itself

    :thumbup: you guys are doing the impossible, finding fish out of miami <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

    I was thinking you might want to add a brace. Bent aluminum would be best, as it would hold the angle you want and is easy to get, PVC could work too. I would outright screw the brae on and then weld the out side and pour expanding foam in the inside front. Not much, but enough to resist water entry.


    Yak safe


    Good idea on the foam, some closed cell foam will make that thing unsinkable