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I too love the Technisub Micro. While even at dealer cost it is not cheap, it has an awesome field of view and very low volume. I have a wide face and it fits me perfectly. My rule of thumb is that if I don't have to think about it while diving it is right. This mask takes SOOO much less air to keep equalized with as wide or wider field of view than just about any other mask.

If I understand correctly, he applied one (or more) layers of fiberglass to each side of the fin?

If that's the case, then my two cents is that the repair is probably stronger than the original. The thickness of the carbon fiber in the middle of the new "sandwich" is like the foam core of a surfboard. All it really does is provide separation between the upper and lower fiberglass surfaces. The further apart the upper and lower surfaces, the stronger the structure (all other things being equal). The only downside is that it is likely to make things stiffer as well. So the hard part, and where your friends artistry comes in, is balancing strength against the needed flexibility for a fin.

Another thing that I've learned lately is that the direction of the fibers makes a great deal of difference in the final outcome. When guys make custom carbon fiber bicycles, they use layers of cloth that have almost all of the fibers running in one direction. They orient the cloth so that the fibers run in the direction to provide the greatest strength in the right direction for whatever the part is.

We got a chance to try the polespear out last week. In total, my son took 7 flounder from the boat in shallow water at night, and I shot one nice 7+ lb sheepshead at a shallow inshore bridge rubble reef. I did learn a couple of things.

First, I have a new found respect for anyone who can consistantly hit fish at any signficant distance with a polespear. I routinely missed them at just a couple feet.

After bouncing a few shots off sheeps the first day, I ground a small tri-cut tip on the first 1/3 or so of the spear point. That made a very big difference in the penetration the second time out.

Needs a stronger band. The little 5/16" OD by 1/16" wall band just wasn't enough on larger sheepshead.

I also found that this spear floated with just the last 3" or so above water. My son doesn't dive with it yet, but I like the idea that it will float if dropped or lost.

It is not very common to have inshore visibility good enough to freedive that particular reef, but I'll be back whenever the conditions allow. Lots of fun!

For all I know about turtle physiology, it might have been a male and a female and she just wasn't interested . . .

No, it's not that cold now. I didn't measure the temp, but I would guess mid 70s in the bay. A rash guard would probably do fine for short duration dives. There was a bit of a thermocline below 60' in the Gulf.

By the way, I saw something really cool on a Gulf dive early last week. There were two turtles on the bottom at about 80'. They would circle each other like two boxers, spiraling around and slowly getting closer until they touched shoulder to shoulder. Then, they would push and shove, until one of them broke off the combat and retreated a short distance. A minute or two later, they would repeat the whole thing. They did this 5 or 6 times, until one of them finally retreated behind the sunken tug and never returned.

Alvin - I didn't get hot, but I wasn't in it long out of the water. As soon as I stopped freediving, I changed to my beat up old scuba suit because I knew I was going to get banged around in the tide. When I went back down, I had to hook my leg through an old barnacle encrusted tire just to stay on the wreck while I strung fish and reloaded.

Core - The buoy line went straight down for 25' or so, then angled sharply over below that. We often see currents in the bay that are somewhat different on the top vs. bottom, but I have never experienced one so dramatically different. We tried a couple of other spots as the day went on, and the tide was minimal from top to bottom on those. When you get to go with us, maybe we can figure it out together.

Quote from pargo

Next time the fish. Do you think they didn't react because of the lack of bubbles?

Actually, I still got the fish. I just left that part out, being as this is a freediving forum . . .

I think it may be partially because of the lack of bubbles. They certainly seemed less cautious, but they sometimes are curious even on scuba.

Forgot to mention it, but I love my new 3mm Imersion suit open cell suit. I was amazed at the difference in flexibility and lack of water intrusion. I am optimistic that I may be able to use it for more of the season than I previously thought.

I was determined to freedive a couple of my grouper spots in Pensacola Bay this week, but I'm just not there yet.

Things looked good at first, with no visible current moving at the surface. We found the first spot easily, and dropped a marker buoy. Again, no visible current tugging at the buoy, so I'm getting pretty excited. Visibility at the surface was only about 4-5', but it opened up to about 15' once I got down a bit, which is pretty good for the bay. The problem was the goofy tide. I could descend slowly and calmly to about 20' deep. But below that was some bizarre jet stream of a ripping current. I had to pull myself hand over hand along the marker buoy line to reach the wreck. I was able to hook the buoy anchor in the wreck, so I could confidently pull along the line, but there was simply no way I could swing a gun against the current while still holding the line with one hand.

Very frustrating too. As I hung on the line at about 30', I could see at least half a dozen nice grouper and a fair bunch of Red Snapper. They didn't seem to be alarmed at my presence at all, which continues to surprise me whenever I get the chance to freedive.

In all, I felt pretty good for the effort, even if I couldn't get off a shot. I was comfortable at 35' even with the surface murk and the additional effort required to get to the wreck. Dive times were around 1:30 on average, which is an improvement for me.

Sooner or later, I'll catch the conditions right!

Cuando quieras me avisas y pal agua

Cuando vamos pal agua.

como esta el agua para fajardo

Dany que pasa pana bienvenido

CABRRROOOOONNNN que gordo estas :0 eso es lo que pasa cuando te mudas para usa

I did some machine work for a guy, in exchange for a new 3 mil Imersion brand wetsuit. It's open cell on the inside, nylon on the outside. I know it won't be warm enough for the early spring and later fall, but it will give me something to start with this summer. Anyway, he gave me a choice of blue camo or black, so I was just wondering if there was any substantial difference other than price, since that was not an issue in this case.

I love the idea of wearing a thinner, more comfortable suit when scuba diving also, but I will just have to make that decision based on the apparent durability of the suit. I'll still wear my old beat up scuba suit when conditions are well beyond my ability to freedive, as those are the times when I am more likely to be taking close range shots down into the wrecks.

I dive North Florida, where it is common in the spring to have water temps in the mid to upper 60's, but air temps in the 90's. Additionally, I dive from an aluminum boat that can get a little warm at times, and I may spend a fair bit of time out of water as we take turns on numerous short drops.

My old black/blue scuba suit (the only one I have ever owned) is easy enough to get on and off so I often just remove it between dives. Rather not do that with a better fitting freedive suit if I can help it.

I know that a wetsuit is fundamentally in insulating layer, but is there any notable difference between a black suit, and a lighter blue cammo suit, in terms of which feels hotter in the sun when out of the water?

Thanks.

If you want to use pop rivets on a boat, and need to minimize water leaking through, look into "sealing end rivets" at McMaster. They are vailable in aluminum or stainless, and cost more like $7-$14 for a box of 25-50 for most sizes. I found them to work MUCH better than open ended pop rivets for repairing thin aluminum boats, but I can't say that I have ever tried them on plastic.

First pic is the sealing rivet. The second and third are other styles that work very well on softer materials like plastic. I used them once to attach a thin plastic measuring tape to the top of a plastic ice chest.

El de luis no quise joderlo pero el tuyo lo guallo por que lo guallo

Alvin enviamelo ya

Me alegro que la allas pasado bien con tu familia saludos a todos por aya

dejen el romance para luego. anthony esa sama fue la que yo te deje hace un tiempo atras?

El dia no fue del todo bueno el agua estava turbia pero siempre le pudimos pescar algo.

Luis el Gracia sub ya esta bautisado