Posts by Guest

  • East Coast Spearo

    Hey peeps,


    New here but frequent a few other forums. Noticed alot of local stuff on this site so here I am thanks to Chuckd who turned me on to this one. No boat but am a fantastic "Boat Ho'" - I do alot of shore entry spearfishing and from my kayak too. Recently moved from Wisconsin to Florida and am know as "Midwest Spearo" on a few other forums.


    Oh and BTW - I have a business called "Pristine Fiberglass Bath & Boat" and NEED work! 11 years experience laying up Kevlar canoes and doing fiberglass, gelcoat and acrylic repairs. :) ANYTHING fiberglass, gelcoat or Acrylic - From Boats to bathtubs, showers, whirlpools, etc. Electro-Mechanical and leak repairs on spas and steam units too.

  • Rashguard

    Not sure whether or not you need bottoms, but a good local company that does it is RealSea Camo. They make a lycra top and if Im not mistaken a bottom to match. It has a loading pad too

  • Wrecks off Clearwater

    Chuck those are some awesome shots! I'm headed back to Clearwater/Seminole to visit the folks and hopefully get out next week. If you need a dive buddy and are headed out, shoot me a PM. I'll be back around Tuesday onwards for about a week or so.

  • Muzzle idea, need feeback

    Unless you need the forward piece to be removable, why not make it from a section of carbon fiber tube and simply epoxy it in place? That would be simple to attach, strong, lighter than the stainless, and easy to smooth any corners or sharp edges.


    There are a few short pieces on Ebay that aren't crazy expensive.

  • Muzzle idea, need feeback

    It can be. But in this case, I was thinking of a pretty thin piece, such that the metal can mostly be sprung into shape and doesn't really need to be worked into a permanent shape.

  • Muzzle idea, need feeback

    Have you considered shaping the metal out of a thin sheet, instead of cutting a piece of pipe? If you cut it into an hourglass shape, with the narrowest part of the hourglass being the width of the muzzle, then the wider (top and bottom) of the hourglass would partially fold down on the sides of the gun above and underneath the band slot. Then your pins or screws would be in the side of the gun , and any force trying to remove the metal would put the screws in shear, which Wood Guy was right in saying is usually a better arrangement.


    Edit - Something along these lines. I think this would also give you more flexibility with the shape of the muzzle, because the metal only needs to span slightly larger than the band slot. Also, the front need not be a circular section, since you are not starting with pipe or tube. Weight would be reduced as well, and you may not even need to notch the top of the metal for shaft clearance.

  • Marseilles style knife straps are better

    One of the ideas I had a while back, but never got around to trying, was to attach a small knife sheath directly to an elastic sleeve that would easily slip onto the forearm or maybe upper arm. I just thought it would be a comfortable attachment, that would be easy to get on and off. I bought a cheap arm band for the older MP3 players, but lost if before I could try the idea.


    Your idea for the shinguard sleeve just sort of bubbled the idea back to the front of my brain.

  • AR15 grip similar to dapiran/abellan, et al?

    This is the Falcon Industries "Foxbat" grip. Is it closer to what you were looking for? Looking closely at the pic on the right, it appears that the contour extends higher than the part which mates to my AR-15 handle frames. If so, you would need to file or sand it down a bit to fit underneath the handle mounting plate. The AR-15 rifles are not flat right above the grip, so some grips have a projection off the top rear.


    http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=281281

  • Dust Problem

    I used to do some colored copper stuff that I sprayed with clear lacquer, and experienced the same problem. There was no way that I could really dustproof my shop, but this worked for me:


    I set a scrap piece of drywall on the bench, a bit larger than the piece of copper I wanted to spray. I then found a cardboard box, again a bit larger than the copper piece, and cut it down until it was just 4" tall or so. When I was ready to spray the copper, I would first wipe and then spray the top of the drywall, and the inside of the box. Then I would spray my piece of copper, and set it on the drywall with a few wire spacers underneath. Then set the carboard box over the copper, open side down, with a few thin pieces of wood around the edges to support it and provide just 1/2" or so of space underneath. The tacky walls of the cardboard box and drywall hold the dust that is already inside, and protect the copper from additional dust floating around.


    It does take a little longer to dry because there is little air movement, but it did a pretty good job of keeping the dust off. I realize that it's not a particularly elegant solution, and not near as good as a truly clean environment, but it works in a pinch.

  • Spearfishing knife by Speardiver

    I see on the Freedive Store website that they are stainless, but can you say which alloy (316, 410, 420, etc.)? Each has it's own advantages (300 series are more rustproof, 400 series hold an edge better, etc) so different people will have different preferences. Also, what's on the handle of the Skene model? Is it a rubber coating?