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    A guy recently asked me to help him build a "travel" style euro that broke into two halves similar to the Riffe "Traveler" design. That's pretty straight forward, but I started thinking about different ways to make the joint, each with relative advantages or disadvantages.


    But then I started to wonder. Is such a gun (along with a two piece spear) really a practical choice? Does it really make travel substantially easier? Or is it more of a marketing thing?


    I don't travel, so for me, playing with different designs or bulding one would simply be for the fun of the construction.

    Will it be snug on a 19mm too?


    How did you figure -2.5mm is ideal reduction to hold the band good? I tend to make my holes small, and I noticed that there's deterioration of the band near the muzzle where it comes out of the hole. I learned that any stressed rubber will deteriorate much faster, and that's what happens when it gets squeezed too tight. I'd like to know the ideal mimimum reduction in diameter that will keep the band in good position and not stress the rubber too much.


    Dan - I don't pretend to know the optimal dimensions for longest life. I have only found that my regular muzzles with 9/16" holes seem to work pretty well with 5/8" bands. So I undersized the hole in this muzzle by 1/16" as well. In this case, it is a reduction in area of 16%. Or put another way, the 3/4" band must be stretched 16% for the diameter to be reduced to fit the 11/16" hole.

    Someone recently asked me to make a compact little muzzle to fit the Rob Allen barrel, and designed to hold a single 20mm band. I figured if I was going to make one, I might as well make two. $45 including Priority Mail shipping in the U.S.




    how would he be able to breathe air at 163meters while ascending at such a rapid rate?


    Just wondering cuz idk too much about the gas laws.

    its not that I dont listen to them. I just think that for my style of diving in which I have my spots already marked and explored, that style of diving works best for me. Maybe if you're trying to find new spots, then you will need to do that.


    I like to keep it simple and easy.

    Where we dive, we generally don't anchore because the boat driver often has to defend the diver from other boat traffic. Not just the stupid ones, but also from non-divers who see the dive flag and try to get as close as possible to mark the GPS numbers of the wreck. Days like that make me glad that our boat is built like an ice breaker.

    Just anchor and jump in... If its rough, stay close to the boat. If you're being super safe, after tossing the hook, set it manually by diving down to it and burying it.


    If you want to drift dive with no one in the boat, deploy two 50ft lines off the back of the boat and have the divers hanging on to them with one diver hanging on at all times (this is a must!!).


    I never understood the point of someone circling you while you dive unless you're at a spot where you're only going to take 10 minutes... seems to me like a waste of gas and a waste of a diver. Just anchor and everyone get in the water

    They will put a part in you hand in record speed if needed as well. I keep a copy of the Yellow Book
    in the drawer of my bed stand.^^ Scares away the ''how will I do that ?:@'' demons ^^.


    No doubt. I once called back 15 minutes after placing an order, with an extra item that I wanted to add. I was told "Sorry sir, but your order has already shipped . . ."

    I recently found that www.mcmaster.com sells metric drill bits in 0.1mm increments. That's 0.004", which makes it really easy to find the perfect size bit when you need to drill a hole that is just a tiny bit larger or smaller than a "standard" size.


    For example, a 9/32" shaft is 0.281" in diameter. So if you needed something that would slip easily over it, you could use a 7.2mm drill which is 0.284".


    For the $3 to $4 that a typical bit costs, it could save a lot of frustration.


    http://www.mcmaster.com/#metal…ill-bits-and-rods/=9k2y2k