I'm soo sorry Aaron. I can't imagine how hard that have must of been. I'm sure shes in a better place.. hang in there bud.
Posts by Guest
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i got cressi gara 2000 hf.....good fins..in currents...you must be in shape...they can give you a work out....try cressi gara 2000 or 3000....3000 is a softer blade...great low budget fins...no complains..also for freediving/spearfishing....there is a 2000 model its LD "long distance"....i got hf "hard".....
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...i am very hopeful about the design based on how tight the camera is to the lens, i feel like the vignetting will be nonexistent on most of settings
Whew. I'm glad that the camera fit properly. I was a little worried that I might be cutting it too close with the separation from the lense.
...and will possibly test it tonight...depends on how i feel later about swimming.
DO IT! I can't wait to see how it works. I was well along with machining it before I really started to read all the reasons why it probably wouldn't work right.
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Sorry Aaron
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The website is www.sfscarbide.com Call Bob White, and tell him what size you need. I usually get them in a little over a week.
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Good luck. If you plan to use a router, you probably have collets that will accept either 1/4" or 1/2" shank bits. End mills are different. The shanks typically step up in increments of 1/16". So if you go looking for a 3/8" diameter spherical end mill, it will likely have a 3/8" shank, so that they don't waste time grinding down either the ball or shank from unnecessarily large stock.
That is why the custom cutters that I buy from SFS Carbide are nice. I have them all made with a 1/2" diamter shank, so they can be used with either a milling machine or a standard router. The 2-fluted ones in particular will cut as cleanly as anything that I have tried through UHMW. But they cost about $60 each for a minimum of 2.
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Is "spherical end mill" the correct name. Because no one seems to know what I'm talking about when I ask for a carbide ball cutter.
A "ball end mill" usually means an endmill that is ground square on the sides, and with the tip radiused to cut the bottom half of a round slot, like a core box router bit. But it won't cut an enclosed track.
A "spherical end mill" like the one I pictured, has a neck that is smaller than the diameter of the ball tip, so it can cut an enclosed profile. They aren't common (compared to "ball end mills"), so it wouldn't surprise me if some places didn't know what you meant.
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So it can be successfully done with a ball bur. Will it cut through uhmw?
I've never tried it. If I had to guess, I would say that it will not work especially well on UHMW because each tooth can't take a big enough "bite" to cut cleanly. Burrs are often called "rotary files" and they work in much the same way. Since UHMW doesn't file well, my first uneducated guess would be that a burr might work, but leave an ugly cut.
But like I said, I haven't tried it.
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The first one is a spherical end mill, and the second picture of various burrs.
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They are not the same. A carbide ball end cutter will typically have 2 or 4 cutting edges, which provides more space around the bit to clear chips, as well as more flexibility for the manufacturer to grind the cutting edges with different geometries to suit different materials.
A burr will have many more cutting edges, which are much smaller. They are generally designed to be used in hand held grinders for finishing operations, but lots of people use them to cut tracks. Just be aware that they cannot remove material as quickly as a ball cutter and the fine edges can get plugged up with material which will cause everything to get hot. So you may need to feed slower, and remove as much material before the final cut as possible.
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Damn Larry. I hope you get a speedy recovery.
How long will you be out diving? -
On another note. Do you guys have any idea how one could attach this to their mask?
I was thinking of possibly bolting/epoxy on one of those fixture to the mask that came with the motorsports package.
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YES!!! I can't wait to see what the outcome is. Judah, can you share the video so we can see Jeff's Magic? I would have tried my own solution but knowing my luck I would have messed it up then get mad and throw it out the window.
If you paint everything inside the new lens housing matte black the reflections will disappear.
Rambo-Do you have to paint the entire inside of the housing or can you just paint around the eye/lens?
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The UHMW will cut cleanly with very sharp tools, but sometimes you get a little fuzz at the corners. It can be removed with a razor knife and a steady hand.
Alternatively, Wood Guy makes short Delrin muzzle inserts that would fit into a USPS small flat rate box. Not sure what he charges for the inserts, but shipping would only be $5 anywhere in the U.S.
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i'll do the sponge and paper inside for the first trip just to be sure
not that I dont have faith Jeff, I just dont have 250$ worth of faith hahahaAbsolutely. "Trust but verify"
I got to get my hands on the guns this weekend, I was pissed you weren't there to chat with and to get credit ....they are SICK...I was so impressed with the whole setup
Thanks. Every year, I come a little closer to getting on a plane to see what it's all about. But in real life, I'm the stereotypical scatter brained engineer with a total lack of social skills. So it's probably better if Chad goes . . . <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
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I cant seem to find anywhere in hawaii that sales delrin.
Delrin is the Du Pont trade name for Acetal Homopolymer. There is also a related flavor called Acetal Copolymer, which works just as well and is cheaper. The two differ slightly in strength, and chemical resistance, but either will generally work for our purposes. Copolymer is sometimes more widely available.
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The replacement housing for Judah's camera arrived today. I shortened up the screws a bit, and put it all together, and it has so far survived over an hour at the bottom of my fish tank without leaking. Not exactly a torture test, I know, but the best I could come up with.
Judah - It's going in the mail tomorrow. You should get it by the end of the week, so let us know how it works.
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What are graphite and microfiber fillers? Do you add these to the epoxy? And what is its purpose?
The microfibers add tensile strength to the epoxy, and the graphite powder makes it slippery. Sorry that I don't know how much of each goes into the recipe.
One other thing to consider is the weight of the different options. UHMW is the lightest, and is just about neutral in water. Delrin sinks (specific gravity of about 1.5) and G10 is heavier still with a specific gravity of about 1.8. I think that poured epoxy is probably similar to Delrin in weight, but you can usually use less of it because the epoxy sticks to the wood and doesn't require a mechanical dovetail to hold it in place, though many people use that shape anyway.
If you are building a larger gun, then the small difference in weight may not matter, but it can affect the balance of a long, skinny gun.
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I think that Ken Jones (Deathstick Spearguns) and others who definately know their stuff swear by poured epoxy tracks. I don't have any personal experience, but from what I can gather, they CAN be tough, quiet, and durable. The only downside, I think, is that there can be a bit of a learning curve. Like any other epoxy work, the quality of the end product depends heavily on a number of variables like temperature, humidity, the ratio of fillers (graphite and microfibers), cure time, etc. There are also some tricks to managing the small bubbles that will inevitably form during mixing, pouring, and offgassing.
I think that it's one of those things that can certainly be a good option if you put the time into the research, or have someone who can show you the ropes. Could be a frustrating process if you have to make all the mistakes on your own.
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we call it cabrilla here in pr to...mero cabrilla
