nice!!! hope the weather is good enough for you to take it out!
Posts by Guest
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Congrats Dan! Looking forward to your dive reports.
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I know that moon phases are used a lot by hook and line fisherman. They use the solunar periods (position of the moon with respect to the earth) to predict peak feeding times. I can explain more to you about them if you would like.
I also know that the moon phases are also used by the HnL fisherman to gauge tides because the fish usually bite the best on the strongest tide (full moon).
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Don,
Really haven't had much problem with the bulls in blue water. They tend to stay in the shallower stuff. We had a couple run-ins with them shooting snapper this summer. I got charged by 2 big ones after shooting a fish. I was at about 60' when they rushed me from the depths. It was late in my dive, so I headed up - the sharks were on my fin tips when I passed into the murk about 30' from the surface. Not much fun when you can't see 3 feet and you know that there are a couple 300+ pound bulls very close and very pissed off. They had no interest in the fish, it was more like they were telling me it was their rig and I needed to get out of their territory or else - we figured they could have that rig and moved to the next one.
A friend got chased out of the water in the same area a week later - he was on the other side of the rig from the boat. He ended up climbing the rig to get away from them - this is a guy who has been diving all around the world for many years. Very funny after the fact, but I'm sure it sucked at the time.
Duskys usually aren't too much of a problem unless they are feeding actively.
Tiger's I don't trust. Especially big ones that try to get behind you.
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So it's a simple round CF tube right? Could you please keep track of how many hours it takes you to do the work.
So far, I have about 4-1/2 hours into the full sized barrel. Three hours to cut the tube to length, bore each end to the correct ID, and sand the entire length down to a perfectly smooth finish without the lines and minimal lumpiness that it started with. Then another hour to partially machine the black G10, and 1/2 hour to epoxy it to the tube.
It's cold in the shop tonight. I have my halogen work lamps to keep everything a little warmer, but I'll still give it a solid 24 hours before I machine the track.
The black track, with the smoothed barrel, looks much better than the green test piece. No pics though.
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No that gun is rigged so that you can switch from reel to float depending on the situation. It had a bungie float line attached since we were hunting tuna.
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I agree as well. It was more one of those "it's cold outside, and I'm way to far from the ocean" type questions.
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They ate our bungies. All four that spent time in the water were destroyed.
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We shot a few of the blackfin at first, but then waited for big yellowfin to show up. We ended up with 4 between 130 and 145 pounds in 3 days. The sharks took a couple fish and tore up a bunch of our gear.
Reading the shark situation comes with experience and isn't an exact science. Most of the time we keep shooting unless they are too big, too pushy, the wrong kind, in dirty water.
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Here's a video clip from a recent trip. Got iffy at times.
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There was a bit of discussion on Hau's enclosed track gun thread about things that slow down a spear shaft. I thought it might be worth its own thread.
Obviously, there are lots of things that create drag and rob energy from the spear. Here are some that I thought of:
1. Friction with the track (enclosed, vs. open)
2. Material of the track (or does a thin film of water support the shaft)
3. Tapering band ends to make them more hydrodynamic
4. "Boat tailing" the end of the spear shaft, again to make it more hydrodynamic
5. Attachment position of the shooting line (trailing as a typical euro shaft, or tied to the shark fin)
6. Diameter of the shooting line
7. Design of the flopper (typical, vs. making it more flush into the shaft)
8. Shark fins vs. pins vs. notches to secure the wishbones
9. Diameter of the wishbone material.
10. Connection of the shooting line at the shark fin (for example, a braided line connection vs. crimped mono)And any others that you can think of. Love to hear which ones you think might matter, and which are stupid. Especially if you have experimented.
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Update - Handle #3 is sold. But Mariner is looking for a 3-hole handle mount, so #4 with the most white, is available.
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Does tapering the ends of the power bands have a beneficial hydrodynamic effect then? It's a much larger area than the end of the shaft, multiplied by several bands. But only over the band stretch length, and not the entire shot distance.
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Mariner - Handle #4, with the most white in it, is available if you want it.
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Don - Got any more pictures of that last gun? Is there a sight of some kind on the muzzle?
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"Boat Tail", as in the back end of a bullet, is usually a little more elongated than the short chamfered edge that you referred to Dan.
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Mariner - These have 4 screws holes, of a larger size, than the 3 in the Wong handle. But otherwise yes, they should fit in the same recessed pocket. Which one do you want, contingent upon Bretto's pick if he likes any of these.
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I was trying to make up a black and white handle for Bretto, so I made up a few extras as I was going along. He gets first pick, and the rest are available for $55 each, including Priority Mail shipping.
These are made from 3/16" grade 5086 aluminum plate, with a bead-blasted finish. The top plate is 1-3/16" wide by 5-5/16" long, and is drilled for four #8 countersunk screws. The bottom two (black and white) are shaped for a right handed shooter. The top two (solid black) are symmetrical. All would need a dip in hot water and some minimal shaping to perfectly fit your hand, and then to either smooth out or texture the surface as you prefer.
Closeup of #1:
Closeup of #2:
Closeup of #3:
Closeups of #4:
