Good to have you here.
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Why don't you start with the time I needed stitches in my head at about 3 yrs old? <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">
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Waterlogged foam. Rotten wood in the stringers, deck, or transom. Or it could be as good as new. Just like an old car, it all comes down to how it was treated.
Wood Guy had a 17' Aquasport with a 115 hp when I was a kid. It was a great all around boat that we fished, shrimped, and skied with. I would consider 90 hp to be borderline for anything but basic transportation. If you think that you will ever water ski or anything, then you will probably want more than 90 hp.
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Well put, and so true.
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Jeff, there may be questions of "how to", "should I" and "is it cost effective", but with you and Gris, there is no question of "if I can"
Thanks guys. Neither one of us is bright enough to know when it's time to give up.
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My mistake, it's an 18hp. It measures 23" from the anti-cavitation plate to the top of the transom. Does that make it a 20" shaft? Serial number is 83550.
Mariner - I don't want to derail this any more than I already have, so I sent you pics in a PM.
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You chuck it in the drill press, just like a regular bit. But rather than drilling a hole, you use it (in this case) just to make a shallow dimple. Then remove the countersink, and use the regular drill bit. It will naturally want to start off in the little dimple that you made previously.
The countersink, being stubby, will pretty much go where you tell it to. A regular drill bit will often wander all over a round shaft trying to get started. With a brittle bit like carbide, this wandering will often snap the bit.
You can also use a center punch and a hammer to do about the same thing. Using the countersink just verifies that your work is properly positioned directly beneath the drill chuck (if you don't move the work while changing bits).
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Maybe TinMan or someone knows where to get 5/64th tungsten carbide bits.
I was hoping to find them local though.Here's your 5/64" carbide drill bit. $7.75 each.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2956a12/=4dirbt
If you order a bit, get yourself a center drill (aka "drill point countersink") as well. These are short and stubby, so they don't flex. Use them to make a tiny dimple where you want the hole to be. That way, the drill bit won't "walk" around trying to start. A #2 in high speed steel is $4.73.
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Pretty sweet deal if you can get him that low. Smaller hp four stroke Mercurys(115 and below) are made by Tohatsu(Nissan) and painted black.
I've got a 1999 model 19 hp Tohatsu that I would very much like to get rid of, if it would be of any use. It was a kicker on a friend's 22' boat, and he gave it to me when he sold the boat a few years ago. Definately needs a coat of paint, but it ran well (in the driveway) the last time I tinkered with it.
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Thanks Hau, that is exactly what I needed.
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Just so I can check some calculations,
What is the overall length of, say, a 120 RA? And what is the typical shaft length and diameter?
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For a small planing craft, hull geometry can have a greater bearing on gas mileage than weight. If the towing capacity on your caravan will permit it, you might want to consider an old Whaler. They are the very embodiment of indestructability. Carolina Skiff makes a very practical craft that is popular in the Pensacola area.
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What specific needs have caused you to focus on an RIB? Do you need the light weight to launch from the beach?
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Dan - That's one reason that I plan to use a Delrin muzzle. If the keyholes don't work out, I can simply make a new muzzle.
Hau - I appreciate your confidence, but maybe we better make sure that I can actually build it first!
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TinMan---I can't wait to see your new gun . . .
Something along these lines Hau. About 52-54" long overall, with a 1-1/2" square stock and enclosed track for a 5/16" or 9/32" shaft. It thins to just under 1" behind the handle, and the delrin muzzle may incorporate Dan's "keyhole" band holes. I realize that this design could be built in wood, but it's my first attempt at a lost wax gun, so I don't want to get too carried away with the design.
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You can use a bigger sleeve for the back if necessary. Other than the pattern of the carbon, the trasition disappears with sanding. The new mop sanders will make it even better.
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Not sure if the CF sleeve will open wide enough. I transition from the smallest section (right behind the handle) to the widest section.
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Don't do it. Flair it out and wrapped in carbon. Look at my wahoo toothpick. Your method of using electrical tape instead of heat shrink makes this very easy, and the end result is WAAAYYYY better looking.
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Quick question: Are the Riffe Competitor and Standard series butt pads interchangeable? By that, I mean do they have the same sized hole that fits over the stock?
My carbon fiber gun will be a hip loader, and I'm trying to figure out the butt end.
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Did you know carbon fibers contract when heated and expand when cooled along the fiber direction?
Making a core out of aluminum with a very smooth surface finish and waxing it good perhaps it might come out when cooled water is passed through the core.
Intersting, and counter intuitive. I didn't know that. But the whole point of using wax or something similar is that the core can be any shape, as complex as you can sculpt, and still be easily removed. Any rigid core would limit you to perfectly straight sections.
I like the water soluable glue thing. But what's the size limit on that printer?
