Posts by Dan

    It's a tuna clip that I straightened out, I don't remember the gauge. But this is not a line anchor, it's not load bearing, it's just to wrap the line. I drilled two holes into the wood on an angle about an inch deep, slightly smaller than the wire, and hammered the wire in.

    Why the thickness of the plate whatever it is of course. But it also depends on what shape the bottom of your gun is, I can't remember.


    I don't know about the foam pockets.


    In your place I'd let this be until a fish actually breaks your line anchor. But if I had to do it I would apply Jeff's solution, only with the prongs facing the other way towards the front of the gun. This you can do for sure because the male part of the gun that goes into the muzzle is solid wood.

    The observation tinu made is not unique to your gun. Coming from a wood gun background all pipe guns to me appear to be weak in that department, pneumatics also. Jeff's solution is probably the strongest I've ever seen. The new Aimrite muzzle also incorporates a standalone stainless steel line anchor. The Riffe line anchor is good, so is the Neptonics and the Aimrite. They're all pretty much the same, thing is you need a flat spot on the bottom of the gun where you can recess the line anchor.


    You can easily make one from a rectangular piece of stainless steel. Just bend the front part out and drill a hole into it, smoothing out any rough edges. If you're not using a reel and don't need the line to pass through the line anchor you can simply drill a hole from one side of the gun to the other and tie/crimp the shooting line there. Then bend a piece of wire for the wrapping of the line like I did here.


    Adrian, which gun to you have a Neptonics Reef trigger mech in?


    I've used the reef mechs in a couple of my guns, I currently have one in my primary gun. I think they're great mechs in terms of price and quality. I've never noticed anything unusual about the trigger pull, the length and weight of the pull are fine by me.


    The first Reef mech I got was rough on the edges. I reworked it with the dremel and a sanding disc, not hard to do and everything came out smooth and shiny. The newer production Reef mechs have come well polished without any sharp edges on the trigger or the line release.


    I sell the Neptonics Reef mech BTW, $60.

    Nice report, pics (I fixed them to show BTW), and beautiful water. I too enjoyed the coral head pic. What was the weight of the yellowfin grouper? Could be a forum record.

    Jason, I will not be selling the camera modified. I will sell it with a fix only if Gopro makes it. If Tin Man comes up with a good fix I may make it available through my store apart from the Gopro, if it's something he wants to do.


    I've been playing with the idea of attaching the Gopro to my mask. I think I have it pretty much figured out and will make it over the next couple of days.

    Thanks Shawn. I read it's not supported on XP. I only have experience with the older Movie maker softwear, of course it was not nearly as rich in features as the paid software. This might have changed however with windows live movie maker. Just the fact that it can handle HD is a big plus.


    I'm going to give Adobe premier pro CS4 a try. CS5 only supports 64 bit. From my experience Adobe software is NOT intuitive.

    You shoot a big fish and the shot is less than perfect, maybe the barb doesn't toggle on the other side of the fish, and the fish makes a strong run. You manage to hold him and maintain steady pressure on the line. When the fish tires enough for you to make a first approach do not be tempted to grab the fish or the spear. Putting any kind of holding pressure on the spear may stimulate the fish to make another strong run. At this point the spear may be holding with the barb just under some loose skin. Instead approach stealthily and as you reach for the spear at the same instant you grab thrust it forward. There's a good chance you'll get a pass through and the barb will toggle on the other side, now making sure that the spear will hold until the fish tires %100.

    The next thing I had a problem with is that none of my video editing programs could work with the high definition MP4 video file that the Gopro camera produces. I did some research online and found this comparison http://video-editing-software-review.toptenreviews.com I think the reviews are biased but at least you can see the available software in one place.


    I then tried three programs that were supposed to work well with HD video.
    1. Corel VideoStudio Pro X3
    2. Cyberlink PowerDirector 8 Ultra
    3. Pinnacle Studio 14 HD Ultimate


    The Corel program wouldn't even open the HD MP4 file. There may be a patch or update but I didn't like the very dark interface anyways so I didn't bother with it. PowerDirector opened the file, but again I didn't like the dark interface and the rather limited format options for exporting the video. Both the Corel and PowerDirector had a toyish interface which seems to be designed for really novice users, although this in no way makes the program more simple to use.


    Pinnacle Studio 14 HD was the best. I've been using version 12 until now but it couldn't handle the HD file. There was a patch for HD but I didn't want to bother with it since the new version was available. Pinnacle Studio 14 handled the file no problem and gave me all features that I'm already used to. The interface for all three programs was similar in that there's a drag and drop timeline where the editing takes place.


    There's probably a more professional program for editing HD video, maybe something from Adobe. But at the level I require for now Pinnacle Studio is enough.

    Since many people are using and more will be using the Gopro, I wanted one place to put all kinds of info pertaining to the Gopro.


    One of the first little problems I ran into is that the card reader of my PC wouldn't recognize the 8GB SD card that I bought. Turned out that my internal card reader which is about 5 years old didn't recognize the high capacity SD card which is normally labeled SDHC. This SDHC card looks and fits exactly like the older SD card which may cause confusion to some. I believe any SD card larger than 4GB is high capacity (SDHC). I bought and returned 3 new internal card readers before I found one that my PC recognized without a problem, and fit properly in my tower slot. The one I bought cost $20. Currently SDHC cards are available in 8GB, 16GB, and 32GB. The 8GB I found to be a good compromise because it has good capacity yet is affordable at $25.


    SD card.



    SDHC card.


    Thanks LB, I changed the description.


    Yes this is the pigstail I use on my guns.






    Here's a coast lock snap that failed. I shot a cuda, about 20lb, and it wrapped the ss cable around a post and made a strong run which opened up the snap. Mind you this is a snap from Bass Pro that's rated to 400lb, maybe it wasn't a true rating, but this is what most people get. I can get a coast lock snap that is more robust and has a true 450lb rating, but I don't see the point as the pigtail is easier to use and will never fail like that.


    This is a professional grade pigtail or corkscrew and swivel combination. Double welded rings, ball bearing swivel, rated at 450 lb. It is ideal for a muzzle bungee for quick disconnection of the shooting line. It is superior to the more common coast lock snap which although often rated at the same weight, has been known to straighten out under load. Once the pigtail is adjusted it's very easy to get the shooting line on and off, even with gloves on. They are $5 each.



    Also available are these heavy duty bullet ball bearing swivels.


    640lb $8
    550lb $7
    440lb $6