Posts by Dan

Dyneema and Spectra are brand names, the technical name for this type cord is HMPE and sometimes UHMWPE. You'd have to use very stiff HMPE for shooting line otherwise it difficult to manage in the water, softer cord will coil and knot easily. The Arborist line even when it's made of HMPE is not a good choice for this application as it's quite soft/limp. The best HMPE shooting line is the stiffest, specifically the one we use for wishbone line. It's stiff because of it's core + jacket construction with the jacket having a very tight weave. It's very strong, stronger than the slipping weight of mono through a crimp. But any cord slows the shaft a little more than mono because mono is so smooth there's very little resistance as it's pulled through the water. You'll need to be proficient at tying a non-slip knot for attachment to the spear, but you don't need any additional items like crimps and a crimper like you do with mono. In an emergency situation Dyneema is harder to cut than mono.

Mono works very well for most situations. It's so stiff that it wants to stay straight all the time and tangles are non existent. Even good mono is cheap, and easy to rig with crimps. I prefer mono.

Thanks Dave. I'd use a Dremel cutting disk to shorten the bolts and eliminate the spacers.

Hello

Thanks again. Looking forward to your tutorial.

Oh yeah, and to avoid the vignette effect of course!

Rambo, I'm thinking this may be the simplest solution for the DIY. Is it possible to get the Plexi any smaller or did you find that to be the minimum size required? Did you make a template of the piece that you could share with us? What is the name of the solvent?

Thanks

Rambo, I figured that the overall robustness was necessary in order for the Plexiglas to be able to support bigger bolts, and remain straight under pressure to compress the O ring evenly. If there's another technical reason related to photography it's beyond my scope. If it's not too late can you please explain the reason?

Thanks for the report Steven.

It's a good fix and another example that shows the concept is solid, thanks for posting Rambo. But those two pieces of Plexiglas seem bigger than the whole case itself. Kinda defeats the purpose of having such a small camera. I'm betting Tin Man can come up with something better :gotm:

See, I found your smiley

These are pics of Don Paul's fins. I wanted to let everyone know that this option is available. Just be aware that one day you could flash in an eater :shark4:

Dave, can you please take a pic of all the parts disassembled; O ring, flat port etc. Show where the O ring goes.

Welcome to the forum.

I hear what you say about squashing all other recreational sports and activities. There are also many other things on the periphery of spearfishing that can keep you very busy like gear, boat etc.

Awesome cubera tinu. Thanks for the pics.

Mike, what you did is similar to what I did here http://spearfishing.world/spea…trong-is-mono-really.html You will see my idea about why/how the weed whacker line failed. Your results are consistent with mine except for the Momoi line. I weigh 225lb and even bounced on it. Did you use the right size crimps and a good crimping tool? Is it possible that the crimping was not consistent with the Momoi line? Maybe you got a bad or old batch.

Very nice. And I can see the rig in the background. How deep were you diving?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiNaadVOQEM&feature=player_embedded

I didn't really get what you were trying to say there Steven. If you feel like explaining.. sounds deep :acid:

Thanks Rhodyhunter.

I never use a stringer on the belt, I use it on float line, and you do too. The fact that yours is made of mono doesn't mean it's not a stringer. Ya veo que te mejoraste LOL

Barracudas pose a threat

You forgot the belt and weights.