Posts by Dan

    Here's the scoop.


    Dennis (20 fathoms) buys the Matrix blades from finswimworld so it's the same blade. finswimworld will be very difficult to get hold of. Their way of doing business is strange to say the least. The blades are good, they are the ones I and a few guys around here use. Lets just come out and say it.. these are the blades I used to sell. They are tooled fiberglass blades. Tooled meaning layers are machined off the down side to create the proper flex in the blade which IMO is the best way to go about it. There's just no way to get that kind of flex precision laying out fiberglass in the first place.


    The Mako blades from what I see on their site are not the same. They don't appear to be from the same manufacturer. I can't see any tooling on the down side so I'm fairly certain the flex on them will not be as good. Probably comparable to the Edge blades. Notice they state the blades don't have a built in angle but that and the color is where the similarity to the Matrix blades ends.


    Footpockets are a personal item. I like omer the best followed closely by the Sproasub. The pockets finswimming world sells are branded with their own name. They are modeled after the sproasub which the omer are also modeled after with some slight changes. The omer are the lightest out of the three by a couple of hundred grams. I use the pockets from finswimming world because I like cheap good stuff.

    hau, kudos for a great idea. Of course the rest tab is not new but I've never thought or heard of using it for keeping a band out of the way. I don't how long the super glue will hold, a pin will most certainly be better. Obviously doesn't have to be super strong so just pushed into a hole will do it. Problem is your RA shaft is probably too hard to drill.


    Here's another idea that may work. On the wishbone of the outer band tie a piece of the same wishbone material, like a little tab. This tab can be tucked under the stretched band. The shot may be thrown off as you described but it's worth a try.

    I'm weak when it comes to covering metal surfaces with a durable finish. Anodizing sounds like the way to go but it too late now no? There was a thread on SB where someone wanted to color an aluminum pole spear and some good paints were suggested.

    Good story hau, I didn't know wounded macks will hole up. I guess it's a last resort genetically programmed behavior for many fish to hole up even if they never normally do it. Could be a sort of revert to an earlier stage in the fish's development, I believe most fish will hide for survival as youngsters.

    I'm glad you're all having fun at the expense of my misfortune, that was my intent in posting <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x"> After being bit there was a lot of blood coming from my hand, it's actually the most I've ever bled that I can remember. Of course I told the camera man to film it and we thought he did, but it turns out that he was so concerned about my anguish he must have pressed the wrong button or something. It was a sight to behold but alas no vid :(

    I remember around $30 a can at Pep Boys. I forget what size can because I've used quite a bit since I bought it and transferred it to a new smaller can. You have to be careful and not let the stuff fall on the part where the can lid fits, you'll have to destroy the can to open it again after that.

    You know that's exactly the reason I went to cable. One moment I had a cuda on the stringer next time I check the mono was cut. So the tuna 400lb, is that mono or cable?

    Pucho, I've been considering going to a coated cable stringer for that exact reason. The uncoated cable frays and the strands are sharp. Are you saying the coated cable didn't work out for the stringer either?