Posts by Dan

Good thread monster, it is kinda funny. Reminds me of a similar trend years ago where wetsuits came out with ringed patterns on them. The idea was that it resembles the rings on a poisonous snake, I'm not even sure that any poisonous sea snake has this pattern, and would deter predators. I can't find a picture of one of these suits, they looked rather clownish. The rings were red and white.

Julio, I like how you put the line release on the bottom, adapted the build to suit the user's needs. Versatility is the mark of a talented builder. How did you get the writing perfect like that?

Monster, be careful, after 17 years I'd have the mech rehauled or at least open it up and look at it. I'm of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality but knowing Pantoja had a Riffe mech fail on him in almost the worst possible way makes me cautious now.

It is the hard version but I doubt it stands for "Hard Fins". From the Cressi website about the Gara 3000 LD http://www.cressisubusa.com/2009/SchedeVedi.asp?id=186

Quote

The LD in the 3000 LD stands for Long Distance, indicating the main use of the product, and these fins have emerged from the need to offer enthusiasts increasingly powerful fins, which are however less demanding than the Gara 3000 fins.

In the description of the HF there's no mention as to the meaning. I emailed Cressi and asked them about it, let's see if I get a response.

Nice guns Julio. What are the lenghts? How's the line anchor secured into the wood? I figure it can't be just nailed it in there. If you hit a big fish that's what's going to be holding it.

BTW I know it's pronounced Picúa but the actual spelling is Picuda <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

High Frequency?

Harry Fotter?

That can be achieved partly by letting the rough stuff sink to the bottom of the can. I always need to stir it real good to get the particles that create the texture.

hehehe That's the plan with the foam material I got from you.

Finally got around to doing this little project. I started with just one weight and coated it entirely. I then realized how much I like the retro look of the uncoated weights, it really makes me happy. So I gave up on the idea of coating the weights for aesthetic reasons. The other factor I wanted to deal with was the sliding action of the weight belt while diving. For this I figured that coating only the surface that comes in contact with my body will be enough so I went ahead with it.

The adhesion of the Herculiner to the lead is very good. Remember this stuff was designed to paint metal (truck beds). I know the adhesion is good becasue I tried to scrape some off and it was hard to get off. It remains to be seen whether exposure to salt water will loosen it up somewhat. I feel that the encapsulating effect may not be necessary and only one coated surface will hold.

The texture of the Herculine surface is probably more pronounced than what is apparent in the pic. I think this stuff should really dig into the wetsuit and hold it's place. I will update on this after I use the weights diving. A note: the texture is rough enough that it would be uncomfortable to wear the coated weights on bare skin, probably uncomfortable in rash guards too.

Thanks. The swivel is on it, it's between the weight and the line, doesn't show in the pic. The clip I don't think it's necessary. I'd rather have one weight on that's good for different current conditions than switching weights around.

No difference in performance other than ease of loading.

A speargun is a personal thing and there's much worse you can do than a Riffe euro. With that said I don't like the euro. I would rather take a Riffe competitor series gun, #3 for our waters.

Cons: Small uncomfortable handle which doesn't allow you to generate good torque when tracking. Wide sideways profile becomes too wide to grip comfortably when the bands are stretched.

Quote from hau

1 spearo said to give him a call this morning when we saw what the viz was

From the water!? LOL Now that's service

Looking forward to your reports hau. I've been wanting to do a beach dive the last few days but been holding off due to what I see on the beach cam. Your reports confirm my decision, thanks.

Thanks Bill. I'm thinking that it's the length of the feed tables that's the key. Like you said it's a user sensitive machine and having a short table makes it even more user sensitive. I would concentrate on trying to find and use a longer jointer one time to see if there's a difference. I did in my searches stumble on a couple of forums where this very issue is discussed. Seems there's not much more to it.

It can smell before and during cooking. But not after and there's no bad taste. The only shark I didn't like so far is nurse shark.

It's on there pretty tight in the first place. Also once it slides over the line it makes the fit even tighter. I could use an even thicker line. Apart from all that a final pull on the line through the slot really cinches it all together. The less money the better is right. I can also put this thing together in 15 minutes from stuff available in a couple of stores close to my house.

Here's another option. The groove effectively stops the line from coming off the spool so there's no need for a bungee. If this 2nd version works I'll use a new buoy and cut a slimmer groove, there's no need for it to be that wide. Sliding the float down on the PVC locks the line which was already secure because of the loop. Even a little current should make this float stand up somewhat. Maybe some additional lead ballast in the tip like Ray said would help that. I'm going to try both versions and see if there's something I missed.

Delta 6" Variable speed bench jointer (model JT160)

Note taken on both suggestions. I'll see what I can figure out for aligning the buoy. One thing I like about the aligning idea is that the buoy may stand up to a degree with current.