Posts by Dan

    Aaron, some are very good.


    Monster, yes interesting about not having a PH.


    I remember Ryan posting a vid of how he first saw the tiger shark, if anyone can find it please post a link. I know it's on his video page but for some reason I can't see those videos.

    I did mention that the line was braided. Jim made it a point to tell me about it so I did buy the braided line. Thanks Davie. I guess the only place to put the swivel is between the weight and the line?

    Article HERE. This is not exactly hunting sharks, it was a defensive kill.





    My wife tells me when I really need to go diving, I guess she sees something. Right now I've been out of the water long enough. I'm really starting to feel the need to be in an ocean environment. I'm also more looking forward to a beach dive than a boat dive.

    I don't know. The line is thin enough that it won't add too much drag. Depends on what kind of bottom the weight is placed I suppose. That's just a weight that was lying around, maybe there's a better option.

    As per Jim's suggestion I used the grinder to cut a groove in the float. Started out with the belt sander but it was cutting too wide and shallow although it is also feasible. The grinder however leaves a nicer cleaner cut and depth is easier to control. The PVC is used to anchor the bungee which is used as a stopper. The PVC can also be used to let the line out as you loosely grip it with two hands. A mono loop at one end can be used to attach an additional marker such as a flag. The line I used is braided nylon masonry line, 50m is spooled on in the pic.


    Possible improvements:
    1. Using a grinder with a wider wheel to nicely cut a wider groove, allowing thicker line to be used.
    2. A round weight with a hole in the middle that can be stored on the PVC pipe when not in use.


    Here's the cost breakdown:
    Lobster buoy - $3 Boater's world.
    Masonry line - $10 Home Depot. Enough to make three 50m markers
    PVC pipe - $2 Home Depo. Enough to.. well you know.
    2 PVC end caps - $.50 Home Depot.
    Bungee - A couple of $$ per foot at West Marine.
    Mono loop and crimp.
    2lb lead weight - $3 Diver's direct.
    Total cost per float - About $10.


    Thank you Bill. Your description of what happens is similar to my experiences. I believe the problem to be the short bed. I was looking at the jointer as a machine that should pretty much work on its own like a planer. Obviously this is not the case. Between the hand planer and the jointer I got two blanks more or less ready for the planer.


    I'll take your word about the electric hand planer and not buy it.

    I did a close enough job with the hand planer in 5 minutes, got the blank a little concave. Then finished it off with a couple of runs through the jointer. Not nearly as straight as wood guy makes the stocks but it will do.




    Maybe I should have gotten an electric hand planer. I've really come to hate that jointer.


    I give up on this machine. There is no rhyme or reason to it. It may be good for creating a perpendicular surface to an already straight surface but for straightening forget it. What a POS. I think I can do better with a hand planer. Somebody please tell me I'm not nuts and that this machine is really good for nothing. I can't believe I managed to get one gun stock semi straight with it a few months back.

    Don't know what you mean by reef shafts. The Neptonics Reef mech I use is for square notch/Riffe type shafts. Although I heard that the Neptonics Reef mech is also made for euro shafts (round notch).

    Thanks, this is exactly the one I have.





    I've switched now from trying to figure out how to make it do its job automatically and rather use it as a shaping tool by marking spots that I feel should be reduced. I'm having moderate success and feel that eventually I may get the wood straight. But I feel I'm missing something, it should be easier than this.

    I'm very frustrated right now. I have a planer/jointer it's not very long maybe 3 or 4 feet. The wood was just slightly bowed. I picked the side that is most straight to plane but the more I run it through the more bowed it becomes.


    I don't understand the concept of the jointer/planer. I understand the concept of the planer it's very simple. You have one straight side (the bottom) and it reduces the top surface until it's the same as the bottom. But I can't reason out the jointer/planer. Can someone explain it to me? It seems no matter how I run the wood through as soon as it starts cutting I know by the sound that it's cutting at the wrong spot.

    When I was growing up I didn't pay much attention to PVC other than it being used to make nets for street hockey. I wonder if PVC was as widely available then, or at least if it was as cheap as it is today. Nowadays I don't know what I'd do without it. So many uses limited only by the imagination; rod holder,lobster trap, knife sheath/handle, it doesn't end..


    Yesterday I was watching a crime documentary which involved snatching body parts from cadavers and selling them for big $$$. There was the ring leader Michael Mastromarino and the funeral homes that cooperated with him. They were caught by one of the funeral home's new director after she touched a corpse's arm and it felt like Jello. The "cutters" removed the bones but didn't yet finish their job of replacing the bones with PVC.


    This is one of the exhibits in the case, an X-ray of an exhumed body.


    Aaron, thanks for posting that. It's hard to believe what I'm seeing, I'd think a dog/wolf could kill a bird like that with one bite and a shake. I still don't know what to think. Those are small wolves, similar in size to coyotes don't you think? I wonder if to train the birds they used weakened domestic dogs, puppies..