Posts by Dan

    Yes, I've wanted to try that for a while now, a 7mm shaft in a gun designed for an 8mm.

    good, I've been wanting spare shafts but the price is pretty steep. Even though you might not sell that many the size I need..? 54" & 60" 8mm?

    I'm in the process of finalizing details so I can't give an exact quote. The shafts you mentioned retail around $50, I anticipate selling them in the $35 range. This is all coming together soon, unfortunately I'm not in a position to put a lot of money into inventory as this is a part time thing for me. If anyone is interested give me an idea of the quantity and type of shafts you need.

    I previously attempted this with plastidip. I didn't like the results as it didn't go on evenly. Rhinoliner is not a good option, it's too thin of a coating and has too much texture.


    I gave up on this idea because I wanted it in the first place for cosmetic reasons. You bring up a good point about belt slippage. I'd love to find a solution. I'm thinking of simply gluing a piece of bicycle inner tubing to the back of every weight. I suspect this will come off eventually or maybe pretty quickly. I'll have some of the shrink tubing left over from covering the pneumatic that I could try around the weights. That material however is pretty slippery too. What would be the best glue for rubber to lead?

    Thanks, I don't want to put you to the trouble without knowing for sure this is what I need. Does it look like something that would be used in this manner? How does it stay on?



    Felix, If you're talking about the float that clips on the barrel near the muzzle could you please post a pic of it. I'm looking for one for my Cyrano. Or tell me where you bought it.

    I've never used a knee loader but I understand the concept and question why it would be called that. The guns are designed to load with the handle on the top of the foot and one arm reaching out. Thus the max length of gun and shaft combined that a diver can comfortably load is equal to the distance between the extremities. It looks to me like the "knee loader" would be used to place on the foot, not on the knee, to increase that distance. So why is it called a knee loader?

    I think that Julie Riffe is sexier than Shery Daye and that's all the reasoning you need to make your gun purchase :)


    I realize that its not a joke when you invest the kind of money Daryl takes and the gun does not perform. Did you buy it new or used? How much?

    Cool stuff http://news.yahoo.com/nphotos/…cpAc6Xbcn8tdoOyPlgvkuQE4F

    I think you're talking about speed walking? I used to wonder about it myself. The distinction is that when running there's a point throughout the movement where both feet are not touching the ground. The rule with speed walking is that one foot must always be in contact with the ground. Try doing it fast and you will see that it necessitates the weird posturing you see them do. I don't think it's a natural thing to do as we're designed to break into a run at a certain point. But it's good exercise and not easy, good for saving the impact on the knees for people who have that problem running. It does funny weird though..

    I misunderstood, when you said you haven't seen it since 2007 I thought you meant the gun, I reread your post and now I see you meant just the floater.

    You have to follow a process of elimination like what I wrote if you really want to figure it out. Just so we know what the hell we're talking about here's a pic of the ono gun right?



    Shit aimrite handle, not ergonomically correct. OK I never shot one and I just don't know about these guns but for sure don't overpower it. How long is yours anyways?

    Why don't you use it? Do you like the band guns better? I like the 70cm pneumatic for short range and because its fun to shoot and rig but I rarely get to use it.

    Cool site. Never seen information about pneumatics organized so well. One thing that caught my eye that they're recommending is this mod with filing down the piston adapter.



    I have to call BS on that. It causes the sliding ring to stick on the adapter and then you have to bang it off with your knife. I know because when I started with my first gun, another cyrano but 970, it came with shafts that rusted and I had to sand them regularly. Without knowing I caused the same effect and the ring started to stick which was very annoying. It's what actually prompted me to move away from pneumatics in the first place as I didn't know the problem could be solved with a new adapter. Fun times..


    I saw the flotation thing they made, that's what I want to make but don't know which material to use, this synthetic cork stuff I never heard of it. I'll try searching for it. Oh yeah and it reminded me to shape the handle, that should take some of the stress off the wrist. It's too bad that these guns are very nose heavy because in a situation where they would be most useful, short range, the gun must be carried in the ready to shoot position continuously.

    If it's foam then that's exactly what I'm looking for. It helps float the muzzle because the guns are muzzle heavy. How long is this gun that it necessitates the loading assistance bar?

    For bad vis, like 6ft, and holes or shooting inside structure I'd like to use a Mares Cyrano 700. It's a 70cm air gun with a 7mm single flopper shaft. I rigged it with two wraps of stainless steel cable so a big fish can't cut the line over sharp metal structure. It's hard to beat a pneumatic for short range punching power and the absence of bands makes it very maneuverable in tight quarters. One disadvantage is that it's nose heavy and if I carry it in ready to shoot position, which one must do in poor viz, my hand and forearm get tired. One further mod I need to do is to add some kind of form fitting flotation to the front of the barrel.



    Removed the safety and ground down the trigger which created a nice clean hole for attachment of the float line to the mono double loop. Took off the handle and wrapped tape around the handle stud to eliminate play in the handle.



    Ground down and reshaped the loader to fit properly into the handle. The big trick was positioning a metal receptacle in the loader because otherwise the spear point gets stuck and costs a few seconds to remove. The ready made loaders that come with this metal cup are always too big to fit in the handle. I made the cup from a piece of 8mm shaft by using different size drill bits to create a cone shape. It is held tightly inside the plastic loader with epoxy. Works very well.



    I wanted to see how well I could work the plastic. I ground down the sights and using sanding and Tin Man's steel wool method got the plastic looking almost original.



    Drilled a hole and put a stainless rod through it and bent it to form a retainer for the flopper. A notch on the flopper accepts this retainer and stays put nicely. In holes many times a fish will get skewered in strange angles and the shaft gets difficult to remove. With this feature its slides right back out the way it came. The SS cable is braided and crimped.



    The original line anchor is also theoretically supposed to hold the shaft when the gun is not in use. This doesn't function well as the shaft is not held tightly at all. Also the resulting line anchoring point is weak. I ground away the shaft retainer and drilled a hole as the new attachment point for the shooting line. I integrated a bungee into the hole. The bungee eliminates the need for a spring between the sliding line anchor on the shaft and the retaining ring.



    The bungee has the stronger and easier to disconnect pigs tail snap and swivel combination. The cable is braided and crimped.



    This is what a 20lb cuda did to the inferior conventional 400lb :rolleyes1: snap after wrapping the cable around structure.



    Since the above pics were taken I found another alternative to the sliding plastic line anchor and ring. This little sliding line anchor does the job of both and makes the spear more streamlined. It fits perfectly into the muzzle the same way the ring did keeping the shaft nice and centered without play.


    The piston adapter on the butt of the spear is ground down for a looser fit into the piston. This reduces the loss of power when the shaft leaves the piston. It also allows me to remove the spear from the gun while it's still in loaded condition. Last I changed the line release to the right to be consistent with my band guns and allow wrapping of the shooting line the same way; holding the gun with the left hand and wrapping with the right.



    All I'm missing is the flotation device I previously mentioned. If someone sources one please let me know.