Posts by Reefchief

Thanks for the tip I like that and its what Ill do. I dont really need to hide weight in the handle either. I can just put it in the back of the gun and it will be hidden by the rubber butt pad.

For the front of the gun. Now that I think I am going to epoxy coat it I plan to do a poured led slug with clear epoxy over it. Would be cool to do some letting inside too, but idk how I could achieve it.

I really like the look of teak, but becuase of the track, and also after bumping and scratching this blank up working on it I think an epoxy finish is a better long term solution. The damage will be to the coating not the wood. I dont mind doing a bajillion ADD coats and sanding wishihadgills style to get a nice finish. I was mostly anti-epoxy becuse of all the horrible globjobs ive seen.

Thanks <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x"> Right now its just being held on by the register pins that stick out of the Speardiver handle. Im not quite sure yet how Im going to attach it in the end. Maybe epoxy, There are some holes in the handle so it could be bolted too.

Im totally with you on the woodworking thing. Thats why I woke up and went right for the handle. Although its just as important to know when enough is enough. My mech pocket knows that all too well.

Smoothed it out more, thinned out the top, and evened out differences. its much Closer to being finished now. Feels like a dream.

ültima sombra Is a bad ass name. Although it should be a black gun lol.

I call my speardiver carbon 120 "carbon120" or actually more often "my gun" but it deserves a better name. I should call it "Main Squeeze" for how much I love it and use it.

When I built my hole gun I named it "Smidgen" kind of on accident. I used the stainless handle of a measuring cup for a trigger guard, and since the pinch and smidgen cups are useless i had a choice of the two. Smidgen was perfect.

My new bluewater gun I'm planning to name Megalodon. The baddest sea creature ever. A fitting name I think. I have a Megalodon tooth tattooed on my chest as well.

Thanks Judah, I think the grain and Lams going perpendicular at the angle of the handle gives it really nice effect. On the gun it looks even better since the tones of the teak match perfectly.

Woke up early. Knocked out the handle before work. Still Needs some sanding but I'm very happy with how it feels. Will have room for lead too.

Thanks for more good info.

Any tips on planing the blank flat again? Im thinking of a few different methods but they all seem pretty darn tedious (like plunging with a hand router over and over)

Im also planning a 2x.5 slot for 4 5/8 bands. Does anyone have any input on this size? With epoxy will this be too small on the bands?

What grit did you use between coats? Im probably going to epoxy because of the track pocket etc.

I have a shower in a bathroom thats unused I can paint the gun in. Thanks for the info.

I tried to see if I could fill just the spaces around the mech but it was basically not possible so I instead just filled the entire pocket back in with epoxy. Going to cut it back out with the router. This time since my mech is .50 it will slide right in like butter. Its also going to look really good finished with the track leading into the black edges around the mech.

The magnets I was planning on using are wide flat neodynium magnets. .5 x 1/6 pancakes. But I could use smaller taller ones like you're talking about.

Quote from sdeisen

I almost asked if you did,,, no biggie

Its pretty much useless with the deep open track im doing but it would have been cool. Plus I have the pefect magnets just sitting here.

I was wondering the same thing dan. I wonder if anyone has any experience with the two? I was hoping that as long as the epoxy stayedoff the wood surface it where it would be oiled it would be fine. I wont cry if the gun ends up epoxied. But im gonna have to beg Xan to tell me his glassy finish magic.

Also I just realized I should have put magnets in the track. Damnit!

Yep a real pumpkin. The secret to carving them is finding pumpkins that are heavy for their size, usually means the walls are thicker then usual.

So far the track looks.... Pourfect.

Well see how it looks when I face it off but as far as I can tell it turned out really well so far.

Ended up finding out one pump each of the West marine 300 pumps produces .8 fl oz of epoxy/resi.

Ill let it cure and wait till tomorrow to cut it.

Its soo blue. Cool pics esp the first. Hopefully the vis sticks around till Sat.

Quote from Dan

Nevermind the track, the cake the cake..

Ill bake you one for your birthday Dan. A half rottweiler half mutton snapper grappling BJJ.

I can do pumpkins too

Track is poured, fingers are crossed! It looks pretty bubble free and glassy already. Only around the edges are there a lot of bubbles, and those will be taken off and then some.

Quote from Wishihadgills

One technique that I learned that will help cut down on how many bubbles you have is to mix more epoxy than you ill need and then pour it into a ziploc freezer bag. The bubbles from mixing will rise to the top in the bag. Then you can cut one of the corners of the ziploc and pour from the bottom of the mix leaving the bubbles in the bag. Its basically a ghetto, disposal icing bag.

Defiintely going to do that to try and minimize bubbles. I knew my cake baking skills would finally come in handy.

Thanks for the awesome info Xan. I had a suspicion the bubbles would be at the top so I planned to overpour by a lot, 3/8 probably. Although im lost on figuring out how much eopxy volume is in one pump. Ive also got graphite I am adding. Mostly for looks but Dan has a new gun with a graphite enclosed track and I felt like I could notice the graphiteness when it slid in the track. Then again Ive never felt a shaft in a pure epoxy track.

Im wondering if anyone knows if a 206 or 209 hardener would work better? Would a longer curing time give the bubbles more time to rise? I have 205 right now.

I have one. Thanks for the offer though Judah. My only concern with the gun vs a torch is the indirectness of the heat heating up the teak not just the epoxy and causing bubble problems instead of fixing them. Supposedly thats why its good to warm the teak first, if you dont when the epoxy warms it it offgasses and creates more bubbles.