Posts by Reefchief

Quote from Nate

Good improvisation. I've used a similar setup to taper. Jigged it the same way and used a flush cut bit on the router with a bearing on the bottom instead of the top.. don't trust my table saw.

Thats... smarter then the sander even. I was actually trying to think of a way to use the router but didnt think of a flat bit with a bearing. that would result in the cleanest flattest surface of all I think. The sander was sketchy as hell trying to make sure it wasnt high in the middle.

After much shaping and bending the trigger is finally finished. Really happy with how it feels and the shape, also satisfied with my polishing job. Progressively fine sandpaper, then a polish with a dremel buffer and compound left it looking sharp.

Will do, speaking of process pics. Here is what I consider a good way to taper a speargun if you happen to not have a table saw but do have a belt sander and strips of 1/8 inch aluminum.

Quote from Dan

If there's any difference between those and regular swimming goggles, it's because there's a rubber seal around the conventional goggles that adds internal volume, then collapses/compresses at depth resulting in more pressure on the eye. I'm sure solid plastic goggles will function the same as the wooden ones. There's an idea for a new product

If anyone wants to test my theory, just take an old pair of goggles, rip off the rubber, and make a lip around the lenses with epoxy putty.

I was also thinking that since they are thick wood the wood displaces more internal volume then thin plastic. Basically the space that is air that will be squeezed in normal goggles is wood that doesn't compress in those. Could similarly test this by filling swimming goggles with epoxy putty except for a bowl near the eye and a hole to see through.

It all scratches I would say, the question is how the scratches effect the gun and what effect it has on the gun long term. Im not a coating expert but heres my 2c.

A thick glossy epoxy coating scratches easily and looks worse the more scratches it gets, but it can be refinished in a way akin the teaspon shallows KES speargun thread without ever even really getting into the wood to fix up damage. The big downside to these coatings its its effing impossible to get it perfect (even most of the amazing sexy coatings you see people doing online arent so perfect in person) , it gunks the entire gun up and makes things not fit anymore, and refinishing the gun is a major ordeal requiring getting that perfect coat once again.

A thin penetrating epoxy matte coating scratches easily and looks worse the more scratches it gets, but these scratches reach the wood since the epoxy is "soaked" into the top layer of wood and not a thick layer. You can refinish by slapping on another coat of penetrating epoxy and it looks pretty good afterwards, but to me the idea of touching up a gun by mixing up a batch of epoxy, coating it, and then praying it dries evenly and without bugs etc in it is way way more maintenance then slapping on a coat of oil. And it would need to be done often to keep it looking good

Here's an example of scratches in my penetrating epoxy coated gun.

Oil coating scratches easily but looks the best when it gets scratches, it also looks the best before it scratches imho. Much better then matte epoxy. The huge trade off here is the scratches are 100% directly scratching into the wood with pretty much no protection against anything except water. Removing a scratch means removing wood. But they are hardly noticeable compared to epoxy. The other downside is needing to oil the gun often, but its not much of a downside imho. slapping a coat of oil on is extremely simple and quick. Pretty much looks perfect regardless of what you do. And for me is kind of enjoyable. Just a few minutes with a rag and youre done. No timing, no mixing, no thinning, no heating. If it didnt kill me to know how beat up my smooth edges will eventually become oil would be a no brainer for me.

Thanks Nate, Im planning on taking a 2x4, cutting the shape i want into it with a jigsaw sanding both sides of the cut to allow 2mm clearance and then smashing it in there. Then putting that in a vice and cranking it closed to completely form it. I think that if I do it any other way (by hand) its gonna end up wobbly and crooked.

If that fails I will probably build a "jig" with some closely spaced pegs to bend it against. Or I may use the pegs to get it to match the jig.

Looking really awesome :thumbsup2:, very nice shaping on the handle. May I ask you what lead you to decide to go with epoxy? I did a similar back and forth on my last gun and ultimately went with oil. So far im pleased but it hasnt gotten enough use for me to form a decision on how much I like it. My first gun was matte/penetrating epoxy and I must say im not really a fan of how it wears. Its sort of the worst of both worlds, not enough epoxy to protect the wood, but not easy to buff out a scratch and slap on a new coat with a rag like teak oil. It was however easy to get a beautiful finish at first with just a foam brush, something that seems impossible with regular epoxy coatings.

Quote from hank

Imagine what he could do with some good fins. How does he not gut burst blood vessels in his eyes, not equalising at that depth?

something about them being wooden googles makes it not happen as much. I think it still happens but maybe since the volume is so low its greatly reduced. You can actually buy a pair yourself.

Wooden Goggles for Freediving?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Im_Cb-gosk

Wooo! They look amazing! Thanks so much for not only creating them but doing it so quickly. Really looking forward to their arrival! :thumbsup2::D:)

George I have plans for the ones I am receiving but Ihab may intend to sell some.

Thanks Don, once concern I had is im not sure exactly how the bands will bunch when under load so i figured it was best to wait and see the real deal.

Quote from Ihab

Laser cutting done...in the polishing process....will have pics tomorrow...and tomorrow it will be shipped.
Ihab

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing the pics, even more to their arrival!

Planning on it actually, it's already tapered a tiny bit, but I'm waiting until I can load it to see how much I can remove and still support the bands. Thanks for the ideas!

It's just parts where the wood is smooth instead of covered in white sawdust. it's actually a phone filter that's making it look too contrasted but without the filter it was hard to see any details of the shaping. Those spots are actually normal teak color

Nice restoration job and beautiful gun. Is Kes a popular aussie builder/brand?

Thanks everyone :thumbsup2:

Ihab, my plan is to balance it very evenly with weight in the front and back. I was considering some adjustable compartments so that it can be trimmed precisely. I sure am hoping it shoots like a laser.

It should swing horizontally very well but wont move up and down so good with all that width. Its actually shorter then my speardiver carbon pipegun for the last 1/4 of the gun.

Did some rounding on the bottom. This was by far the hardest thing ive had to do to the gun or any gun yet. Achieving a balanced, even, straight, flowing curve seemed all but impossible at one point, but with enough filing and sanding and peering down the thing I think im just about there.

I think creating a clean faceted profile with a spoke shave before going at it with files and sanding would have helped quite a bit.

Judah im just leavin yours square :laughing3: just kidding.

Cool. But nuts.

Riverland Dinghy Club Promo - YouTube

oh australians :rofl:

Modified the muzzle during lunch to have more meat above the bands, remove the "horns" and also suck less aesthetically.

Did some more work yesterday, rounded the back, shaped a butt out of a rubber stopper, cut a taper, and shaped the muzzle.

Im a little concerned with the strength of the muzzle. Between the track and the band recesses a lot of material is taken out around the "horn" thats holding the bands in. Im wondering if that horn is going to snap off without some kind of support. The stainless plate will protect it, but it doesnt do anything to prevent outward pressure from the bands. Most of the load will be on the inside of the hole but I still wonder if enough upward force will exist to break off that horn.

Im thinking about moving the band hole down more, or maybe putting in a bit of stainless behind the bands to take some of the load.

to the sear is 52"

Don the band stretch is 50 inches from back tab to bands. Its total length is 59" in the end with a little bit of extra butt for control and loading ease.

Quote from Don Paul

Unless you don't run more then a foot of overhang on the 7mm flooper shaft, your twin 16mm rubber will not produce a excessive spline cycle, column loading...deflection ''shaft whip'' (what ever you guy's want to name it) on the rubber pull distance, geometry and elongation values you are dealing with. .....Trust me .....believe it or not.... but it all has been done before...tested and used the the wild and documented in some body's engineering log that will never be freely published due to dangerous test procedures not sanctioned my OSHA.;)
I love your build, and that your doing it with your dad. Shoot it, test it and develop it freely to your hunting style....enjoy the journey.

Cheers, Don

Thanks for the vote of confidence Don, sounds like I will be very happy with a 7mm then. (overhang is 10 inches). Glad you are enjoying the build.

Im also really enjoying spending time working on it with my dad. I moved closer to my parents before the birth of my son so we have been able to spend a lot more time together (while grandma soaks up baby). He basically taught me everything I know about building stuff, fixing stuff, thinking systematically, solving problems, and DIYing it. Hes still teaching me stuff today and I couldnt ask for a better set of eyes and brains making sure my cuts are center and straight and my measurements are right :thumbsup2:

Quote from jaguigui

I don't favor the short overhang, it's just I'm trying to keep almost the same mass as the stock 8mm shaft. But the overhang on that (8mm salvimar) is too short for aiming instinctively. The RA 150cmx7.5mm shaft is around the same as the salvimar 130cmx8mm shaft.

Nice build though nonetheless! Can't wait to see it done.

Ah so you went to a longer thinner spear then the stock 8mm on the denton. 8mm is way too much for me imho. Some of the fish I would end up shooting with it would be cut in half by an 8mm spear lol. I will consider 7.5mm if I experience excessive shaft whip at the power level I like, but for me 7mm should be ideal hopefully. I dont expect to be bending shafts left and right with a 7mm. If not ill just need to wrap some sandpaper around a 7mm shaft and buy a new one.