Damn fuzz you had me worried for a moment.. I don't know Don but I got to like him, felt legit to me like a Cali version of capt' Jack Sparrow
and to think that he's not really Don..
:laughing3:
That pic is awesome! :thumbsup2:
Posts by fuzz
-
-
How long ago was this? & what's the story behind your username? :confused1:
-
As I've mentioned before, I'm a big fan of the Beuchat pockets - locks the heel well, soft enough upper to not blister at all, & stiff base. Considering transitioning to all beuchat fins just for consistency sake. There are a lot of fins out there I like, but for warm water especially - these pockets speak to me.
One thing not mentioned here that I found interesting - the beuchat blades have a longer tongue (that goes in pockets) than any of the other classic fins (omer, sporasub, etc).
Too bad Beuchat is going the way of other mfgr's with multi-levels of distribution... meaning more $$$.
-
Used the HD ones during scouting for Nationals.
Footage was good and the idea is sound, but few issues I personally had:
- No image stabilization
- Natural tendency to lower eyes to aim caused video to be off for some shots
- Bulky
- Side tubes pressed on cheekbones, uncomfortable
- Skirt too small, ill-fitting for my face
- Mfgr process bad, need to toothpaste the hell out of glass
- Mask markings annoyingOverall, it's an innovative product and they are very receptive to input. I am very interested to see how they improve the existing design and will likely buy their next generation of masks.
-
Display More
My bad, but it doesn't change my overall question.
What I'm trying to get at is whether the diameter of the object being pushed through the water has the bigger impact on shaft speed, etc. or if the weight of the object has the bigger impact.
Stated another way, does the diameter of the tip dictate the shaft speed? If so, using a big diameter tip is a huge mistake in most applications. You might as well be shooting a 3/8" shaft if you use a big slip tip.
To be clear, I'm guessing at this. I would love to know some of the results of what the guys who measured shaft speeds came up with.
Totally agree. Makes me shake my head when I see a riffe euro equipped with a 17/64 shaft... and an ice-pick slip-tip. All the negatives of a big cross-section (drag, poor penetration) with none of the benefits (momentum, punch). Like most things in spearguns - it must be balanced.
-
Two dives, on the same wreck, just 2 weeks apart last fall. The first time, there were large red snapper about, but they remained at the edge of my visibility, and often circled around and came up behind me. As soon as I turned and made eye contact, they bolted. Two weeks later, with red snapper season closed, I was literally poking these same fish in the side to get them to move out of my way for a shot on a grouper.
I doubt that they knew the season was closed. I can only conclude, like everyone else, that I was giving off some subtle clues that caused the red snapper to interpret me as "not a threat".
It reminds me of the old stories of a horse (or dog, or whatever) that supposedly could do simple arithemetic. It couldn't. It was just picking up on extremely subtle signals that the owner didn't even know he was giving.
:plusone:
-
Chuck, what does that mean tight tolerances?
Not sure it's what he means, but there isn't much space in the housing for both euro shafts & mono. For example, the riffe euros - if you use their 17/64" shaft, you can use 200 or 250# mono and it's a tight fit. Most 300# test won't fit. Not a problem if you're using a finned shaft, but these guns were made primarily for euro shafts.
-
Face first
I'm sure we can get some guys on SB to pony up the dough for a table saw if you volunteer to test that...
-
For price/weight/performance basis, my favorite reel by far is the RA composite. :thumbsup2:
-
Something that I learned only recently (last trip actually), but it is much easier for me to pull the bands with my hands "palms up". I don't know why, but since I first started chest loading, it was always my first instinct to grab the bands "palms down".
Makes sense, really. It's the same motion as a chin-up exercise, and I can do many more chin-ups with a "palms in" grip than with a "palms out".
Like Lunker said, it's a slightly different set of muscles. Different people have different preferences.
One added benefit of loading palms down is that it frees your thumbs to control/manipulate the wishbone.
-
Dan, can you clarify what you mean here? I don't drill a hole straight down into the wood, and then bend the pin. I drill the hole at the angle I want, so that the pin can remain straight. That way, there are no forces trying to rotate the pin in the hole.
:metoo:
Drill hole at proper angle, diameterto create tight interference fit, scuff up base of pin, & dab of epoxy to fill any micro-voids.
-
Thanks for the workout! I am looking forward to giving it a try. Definately, don't try this without a spotter. You can and probably will crush your PB static before someone fishes you out.
Like Don & Gris said, the spotter is crucial. I know a couple cases of people dying while pool training. It can happen so quickly...
-
Are they so pretty that you caress them after you shoot them? Come on, admit it on public television
Yes, I have a fetish for red fish...
-
Interesting, Tito's guns that I've seen all have the band slot built into the wood stock. I'd cut that muzzle off and make holes for the bands. With any luck you'll get a 115 out of it which is still good enough.
fuzz, what kind of fish is that?
Funny, that's what someone else said - I had a Tito gun a while back and it looked just like Lunker's one with the Beuchat muzzle. Guess we both got old style ones.
Lunker, there are a few options to convert it to open muzzle if you wish. If you're happy with how it works, then leave it as-is. As for the Rob Allen - I'm an absolute wuss when it comes to recoil. I have a hard time shooting 2 5/8 bands on them, but know people who are pretty darn accurate with it. Let us know how you do with it.
The fish is a Vermillion Rockfish. I like em... cause I think they're purty. :crazy:
-
here are a few older pics of my gun, although it sounds like you understand it well.
im looking forward to seeing /feeling the differences you are talking about...any tips for a successful transition?
Well, first thing I'd do is fix the shooting line.
Whenever you have a track/rail, make sure the line doesn't run under the shaft.Second, if you're not going to use the screw-in band adaptor, I'd convert the muzzle to open. But that's just my personal preference.
The aiming should be very similar and you should pick it up quickly. It's more of a feel difference than a fundamental difference. How is your railgun set up? Same band configuration?
As a side note, my wooden euros all have bandslots built into the stock, so they're a bit different than Tito's standard guns.
-
fuzz, you've seen Tito's guns? They're basically a wood gun with a euro handle, like the omer master America. Well made guns.
Yes, I have.
I currently own a couple with similar build. (i.e. Totemsub Tahiti-L that has a Demka handle & a wooden barrel)
Also have a couple homebrew guns that use wooden barrels & beuchat mundial handles. Can't see much of it except the barrel & immersion reel.
To me, there's a marked difference between these wooden-barrel railguns and SA style railguns in feel, balance, recoil felt, & sound.
-
I've seen his guns. I just feel they are more of a hybrid than a true "WOOD" gun.
I agree.
Wood is definitely a different beast and has a different feel than a euro or railgun.
-
If a fish has cig I don't believe there's anything you can do to make it safe. There are two ways that I know of to find out if a fish has cig; a cig test kit or eat a small piece and wait a couple of hours to see if you get mildly sick. Cig can happen in many species of fish not only cuda, it depends on location. Amberjacks can have it, so can schoolmaster snapper, big black groupers and even hogfish, as well as many other species I'm sure. Didn't Kris get sick from a permit or pompano? I got sick once from a big lizard fish, ain't ever touching one of those again.
Predatory fish often have highest concentrations of cig because it accumulates. Likewise, the toxin accumulates in people too. I have several friends in Hawaii who have succumb to cig poisoning having eaten fish with relatively low concentrations, but over many meals.
There have been many tests on cig in Hawaii, including ongoing fish surveys. As a result, I just steer clear of the red-flagged areas/fish.
-
Thank you all!
After a day or two here, all I can say is, how refreshing it is to be involved in a spearfishing forum that actually discusses...well... Spearfishing:crazy:
Blasphemy! :0
-
I'm now using four 1.25lb weights so a total of 5lb. I'm wearing 1mm pants and a Lycra top. Today I found myself slightly positive at about 15ft. This is inconvenient on very shallow dives as I had to hold on to the bottom to stay there, but I only do those depths when beach diving on the way to deeper water. Diving from the boat %99 of the time we go deeper, so I will continue using 5lb on the boat and keep one extra weight around just in case. I've gotten accustomed to kicking most of the way down on deeper dives, it doesn't seem to take too much air. Getting back to surface of course is much easier, especially towards the end of the day. Overall diving is more comfortable, no back problems. I like that there's less weight to lug around in general. I believe I'm going to continue diving with this weight until it's time to readjust for the winter. I don't foresee dropping any more weight off the belt with my current diving attire unless when I lose weight (I'm exercising) I will become less buoyant.
I use a couple of these on my belt:
http://neptonicsystems.com/quick-weight.htmBasically, with a full belt, I'm neutral at 5ft... perfect for shallow surgy areas where I want to stay on the bottom without much fuss. Take 1 weight off and I'm neutral somewhere between 15-25ft, depending on suit. Take 2 off and I'm neutral at 25-35ft.
Easy & quick to match my diving depths.
