Is this still available? What barrel diameter does it fit?
Posts by parker
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Where can I order 6.5mm x 160cm RA shafts?
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Dan, where did you find a 6.5mm carbon shaft that length, and what size band(s) are you using with it?
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I don't know answer to the question of "ideal brightness" but I too use the IFL660 for peering beneath ledges or into holes during daytime. I carry it clipped to my belt. I like its compactness and the intensity of its narrow beam. My only complaint is that it doesn't have a lock to hold the switch in the off position. A couple of times the light has turned on inadvertently while on my belt, or in my gear bag, and run the batteries down. I'm gonna try to fabricate something with ShapeLock to remedy that.
For those of you that don't mind buying used gear, the light sells for $25 at Intova's website.
IFL660 130lumens/220lumens | IntovaIt's odd, but I notice the specs listed differ a bit between Speardiver, Intova (new) and Intova (used.)
Speardiver shows: 220 lumens; 8 hr burn time; and 12 degree beam angle
Intova (new) shows: 300 lumens; 3 hr burn time; and 7 degrees
Intova (used) shows: 130-220 lumens; 5 hr burn time; and 7 degrees
(I think the 130-220 lumens must be a typo.)For sporatic on/off use during daytime, the batteries last a long while. But for continuous use during night dives, you probably want to put in fresh batteries after a couple nights of use. I don't like having to buy the CR123 batteries that frequently ($$$).
For years, my night light of choice had been UK C4 eLED. But this past year I got an Intova SL1. Now that's a BRIGHT LIGHT! Advertised as 800 lumens, 7 hr burn time, and uses 3 "C" batteries. (Much more affordable than CR123.) I mostly use the light at the reduced power setting and it's still plenty bright. Intova sells the SL1 used for $80. SL1 Search light | Intova
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The blades are sold now. I assure you that I checked the time stamps of the emails and PM's I received to determine who was first in line. Thank you to all that expressed interest.
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Okay, I guess I don't understand how to upload pictures. Please contact me if you're interested in the fin blades and I"ll send pics to you. My email is oceanben123@gmail.com Thanks!
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I bought these new from Dan last year. If you're not already familiar with these fins, search this forum and read the raving reviews. They truly are very nice performing blades. On separate occasions over the past year, I was able to compare them head-to-head with DiveR fibergalss medium stiffness, DiveR carbon-kevlar medium stiffness, and Moana soft blades, all in Mares Razor footpockets. For me personally, the C90 blades perform... noticeably better than DiveR FG ... pretty much equal to DiveR CK ... and slightly less than Moana soft blades. Actually, the Moana softs seem stiffer to me than my C90's. But, there's something about MY kicking style that causes the C90 blades to lightly brush against each other on most of my kick strokes. I don't notice that with the Moana blades.Anyway, mine are obviously scratched a bit, but perform good as new. $150 includes shipping
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Is the band length formula "stretch factor" for small ID rubber the same as used for normal ID rubber? For normal, I usually use a stretch factor closer to 3 than 3.5. What do you guys recommend?
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What dolphin?:confused1: I didn't see no dolphin in that video - but I caught a glimpse of mermaids though :cool2:
Just kidding about the dolphin kicking. I know what you meant.
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Welcome! I was in Gtmo 1990-1995 and loved it there. Very good spearfishing and bug grabbing!
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I ordered this "Jelly Hood" recently and am curious to try it. Do any of you have experience with one?
OMER Jelly Fish Hood Brown Mimetic -
Line only. but i found a deal on longline clips WITH swivels at basspro, 2 for less then 5 dollars. can make a float line for 10 bucks.
Very good!
BTW, I prefer twisted poly rope over hollow-braid for a float line. Hollow-braid is certainly simpler to splice, and is fine for bluewater unless near structure. But, my experience is twisted poly doesn't snag as quickly on structure or reef and therefore last longer. Plus it gives me a chance to practice my splicing skills - which look rather professional when I hide my flaws with heat shrink!
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I did exactly this and got 50' for less than $5
You mean less than $5 for the line only, right? Surely that amount doesn't include cost of the end clips and swivels. Does it?
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I think these are good float lines . . . HSD Rope Poly Tag Line, various lengths
Hanapa'a Fishing - HSD Rope Poly Tag Line 100'
The 100' line is $17 plus shipping. Maybe shipping to FL is about $8? Suggest ordering a T-shirt or two to soften the shipping cost impact.I've made several float lines myself, but each has cost nearly $17 in materials, if not more.
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* Slip-Tip Line for Complete Breakaway systems for Pole Spears (not just brand--but how long should it be before connecting to Float Line?)=
This video shows how to . . .
gat-ku break-away demo.mov - YouTube -
Interesting. I wonder how much variance exist between different size footpockets of the same brand/model.
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Water channeling begins at the footpocket with conventional footpockets, so the effect is increased. Water channeling is important for stabilizing the fin.
Considering the speed (or lack of) that we humans swim, I imagine the difference in water channeling effect between these two designs is negligible. (does that sound engineer-ish?)
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I don't like that design. It doesn't provide water channeling, . . . .
Why do you say it doesn't provide water channeling? Are the glue-on side-rails not as effective on this shape?
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New condition. Very little use. It’s a very nice mask, and good fit for my face, but I prefer my Mantis LV. Most of you probably know this is same as the Riffe Sight mask. $50 shipped, obo.