Posts by grossetti

    Hmmm, ok, fair enough, although with smartwatches out and not being much bigger than an f10 I wonder how valid it is today for them not to integrate a rechargable battery, a monochrome screen and the not powerful CPU the dive watches have requires less energy than what the smartwatches have...

    Hi all,


    I just took my brand new Aeris F10v2 out for a spin in the Mediterranean last week. I had my 5mm with a hood on and I did not hear the alarms nor did I see the red led light up. I started to think it was faulty but after several tests I realized my hood completely blocked the alarm's sound (and the light is just not bright enough). This made me wonder why they don't vibrate, wouldn't that be better? I would feel it even through my wetsuit, I would not miss important events and not have to look at the watch all the time.


    Any ideas why nobody does this? It would be more safe.


    Thanks,
    Gabriel

    Yes, both are lined. I know they are less warm than unlined wetsuits but since I use them about 3 weeks a year and I have to travel by plane to use them I decided lined was more convenient. If I lived by the ocean I would have probably gotten unlined ones. That said, my 5mm is soooo hot that I had to take it off last time I used it as I overheat in it (this is why I got a 3mm after); my friend also had a 5mm SCUBA wersuit and he was not too hot.

    I got the Best Hunter Okipa 2 in the end and I am very happy with it. It travels well, has lots of room and is well built. We use it either standalone with an anchor and hunt around it or with an extra round and flat buoy that we tug around with us if we venture farther (using the Okipa as a base camp). We don't tug the Okipa as it is usually heavy once loaded with food and fresh water. We use it in shore/reef/rock hunting only.


    Thanks all for your input!

    Just for info, I ended up getting both of my wetsuits (3 & 5mm) with high waist (no suspenders) and I am very happy with this choice.


    Thanks again for your input!

    So, just for info, I ended getting an attached hood for my 5mm and a high neck and detached hood (not the shoulder type) for my 3mm since I use it in warmer water and I may or may not need the hood (I have a tendency to overheat).


    Both of these are Elios custom made wetsuits (and so is the detached hood).

    The drag while the gun is loaded is actually tight. Once the drag knob is tightened down, the reel won't spin unless the line is tugged causing it to spin slightly, then it goes into freespool after that initial tug. The tightened knob is plenty enough to keep your line wrap from falling off.



    So a tug will untighten it, is that what you are saying? So I cannot use the tightness to play with the fish, so it doesn't unwind too fast?


    I haven't actually used my reels yet, this will be my first season, I usually use a float.

    Maybe this is a dumb question, but with open muzzle spearguns, how can you have free spool before shooting? Won't the wrap become undone? My new speargun is open muzzle and although I have not tried it in water, on land it comes undone and the spear falls off (without the slings pulled back, I haven't tried to pull them back on land).

    I use them like Nate said with the exception that I don't have to flip the speargun with the vertical reel (Sporadub One 50 reel), I inverted mine so that the crank is on the right side instead of the usual left side (I am also right handed). The horizontal reel is the default reel on the Salvimar V-Pro 75 and I will use it exactly like Nate said (it's my new reef gun and I haven't had time to take it out).

    In my experience the exact shape of the crimping die is less important than getting the right pressure. even with the correct die if you squeeze too hard or too light the crimp will fail. Regardless of which one you go with, ( I doubt either company makes them. they are probably rebranded crimpers from a fishing supply company) practice a few times and test your results before you put it on critical gear.


    I watched a youtube show that showed how to crimp, it was directed at line fishing, for big fish (cable and mono). He used a crimper like a Centro CH-18. It didn't look like had to worry a presser, he just pressed and the crimper applied the correct pressure. Here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhfP2qjczJc&feature=youtube_gdata_player. So does mean that the smaller crimpers you have to know what strength to apply but not the big ones? Or am I missing something here?

    Fortunately here in Florida this is not an issue, for foot pockets and shoes, I wear flip flops year round :)


    Where in Florida are you Dan? Last time I was in Florida (Clearwater/Tarpoon Springs) in winter I couldn't walk around in flip flops.

    Just found a UK site that has an older model of the Omer says the die sizes (the slots) are the same as the Mares, so I assume the new version they removed the smallest one (0.1-0.5mm), which I assume is useful for angling but not so much for spearfishing. I still am not sure what the diameters printed on it mean, maybe they are for a different type of crimp.

    Hmmm, hard to say, I found a good pic of the Omer, it has 3.2, 3.8, 4.6 (diameter symbol), the Mares I finally found a good close up pic, I do see 2.2mm, 1.0-2.0, 0.5-1.0, 0.1-0.5. It looks (visually) like the Omer is missing the smallest. Here are the best pics I found (Omer, Mares(red)):



    I think if the slot size printed on the Mares is the line diametre then the smallest slot is not useful for spearfishing, what do you think?


    I am not sure what diametre the Omer crimper refers to though, can't be the line as those are huge, maybe the crimps themselves? Confusing as I see crimps sold using mm sizes...


    The sizes written as 140/160/180 I found out are in mm times 100, thus 1.4mm/1.6mm/1.8mm, it is the diameter of the line I think.

    Hi all,


    I am hesitating between buying a used crimping tool, I found someone selling an Omer tool and someone else selling a Mares. The difference is in the number of crimp slots (for lack of a better term), the Mares has one more.


    This prompted me to look at what size sleeves are used and I noticed that there are different ways of classifying them, I found some are using diameter (like the Omer tool has printed on it), some in mm (like the Mares tool from what I see), others say stuff like 140, 160, 180 (Cressi), etc. How am I supposed to see which too to choose? I am aftaid the Omer may be missing a size I need, although it would be strange since Omer is specializer in spearfishing gear....


    Thanks,
    Gabriel