Posts by John Hanson
-
-
Ok here is the picture of the basic idea. This is from my Toyota truck. Imagine putting a similar system on the bottom a barrel. This is a line anchor! It is fully adjustable and holds incredibly well.
I have also included a simple drawing that show how an aluminum barrel could be extruded to utilze this. Hell, you could also throw an enclosed track on the barrel as well!
-
Thanks John.
An adjustable anchor is a nice idea. But it would add all kinds of hardware to the gun, I like to keep it simple. I'm comfortable with one place for it once I figure out the range I want.
Dan, I don't think that all kinds of additional hardware are necessary....I just got a brainstorm when you mentioned "adjustable" anchor:idea2: it would involve designing a new tube, but that is pretty easy with modern extrusion processes.;)
I am going to take a picture...I will post my idea in a little bit. Maybe Tin man could help with this. I think it would be fairly simple to do.
-
Any possible disadvantages to having the line anchor somewhere between the middle of the stock and the muzzle?
The only one I can think of would be on a pipegun. How would you securely fasten the anchor to the middle of the barrel without going into the tube? This wouldn't be an issue with a wood gun.
Again, I am speaking fo the tradtional pipegun that does not use a reel or break away rigging.
-
I can see it.. the 1.5 tribe.
Davie, can you draw a diagram of the line routing for 1.5 wraps, I'm having trouble visualizing it. I need to know that the line will still release reliable/won't get snagged on something.
Dan, the easiest way to visulize it is another line anchor/wrap, as you are used to on the muzzle, midway on the barrel. Rather than go back to the muzzle on the second wrap, you go to the "mid" anchor/wrap" and then back to the line release to finalize your wrap. That's it.
-
What was especially cool was that it shot "naturally" to the point of aim for different people who had never used it and had various experience levels.
I am curious as to what this is attributed to. My first guess would be the balance of the gun from the handle and next, the weight of the gun in relation to the amount of recoil. Do you recall how far, from the butt of the gun that the handle was placed? My experience has been that the closer the handle is to the butt ( in relation to balance) the better the gun shoots, with no prior experience.
-
i dont know exactly the purpose of this thing, but whenever i need a place to rest the gun, like when messin up in the kayak with my body still in the water or dickin with the anchor line ive always jsut hung it off the weight belt by a tuna clip, which i think will work well until i shoot myself in the foot
Yet another reason I am going to the in-line floatline method. Just drop the gun; the float will hold it.
-
How would you do 1.5 wraps?
Hammerhead had a device that they used that was nothing more than a large "shark fin" that glued to the bottom of the barrel. It pointed toward the muzzle.
It is easy to rig a wooden gun with another line anchor. Finding something for a round pipegun takes a little more thought, or you could simply buy the Hammerhead line wrap. Haven't looked at their site in a while, so I don't know if they are still offering them. I had one a few years ago. It worked quite well.
As for the single vs. double, I also like a single wrap. I was quite surprised at how much reach I actually had when I measured my 130 with a single wrap; from my shoulder to the middle of the shaft was 24'. More than enough range for most fish and and I would even go so far as to say that anything past that would be an "iffy" shot, at least for me.
There are ways to rig guns with reels to where you can go from single to double. They way I used to do was to not run the reel line through the line guide. If I want an extra wrap, I simply pulled it off the reel and went around the line anchor again. Very effective. I used it mostly due to the varying conditions while shorediving Southern California. Sometime the vis was 5-6' and sometimes it was 15-20. Rather than changing guns, I could simply increase the range by adding another wrap. I did this with a 50" mid-handle gun.
I went to single because I noticed how much line was not being used after taking many fish here. It gave fish that little extra distance to get into structure.
-
I agree, this is to much shit to worry about when in the water.
Agreed. I think Mako would be better served by removing this product from their inventory and encouraging the idea that someone's life is worth more than one of their guns.:crazy:
-
Definitely a better alternative than what I see on the Mako product. "Grab and yank" is better than "coordinated" thumb and forefinger squeeze.
My only concern would be how well the pin releases under pressure.
As far as I am concerned, the mako product is simply designed as a fall arrest system for the gun in dirty or deep water, IF UNFIRED. But, Like Don paul mentioned, who is going to take the time to relase the strap when that fish of a lifetime, unexpectedly shows up?
-
Psycho, the worst thing was, I had the gun for 9 months before I ever got a chacne to use it. I can't tell you how excited I was to fianally get in the water with that thing and the first fish I see is a nice one!
Anyway, back to the strap. I can already recommend a couple of things to make this thing a bit more "safe":rolleyes1: Get rid of the buckle; it will be near impossible to relase if under any kind of pressure. Replace it with a velcro strap that wraps only 1/4-1/2" the distance around the wrist, and have a large tab to pull it off with. Many surfboard leashes are designed like this so that a surfer can release the board if being towed through the water by mulitple large waves. I have had to do this a couple of times in my 20+ years of surfing.
Another idea I had was to lose the heavy duty cordage. The line should be strong enough to support the weight of the gun and that is all. A sharp jerk of the arm and the line breaking would be all that is needed (and the most likely reaction if panicking) to release the gun; say some 15 lb monofilament, or something along those lines.
-
Yes, another BAD IDEA in my opinion, especially in sharky waters.
Personallly, I prefer to put my fish in the boat, not just for the purpose of not attracting sharks, but it also gives me the opportunity to take a break, especially after the adrenaline burst I get from shooting and fighting a nice fish. it gives me a chance to calm down and also get at least a 5 minute break to get a drink of water or inspect my gear for damage.
I did this once in a competition in Southern California. While sharks are really not much of an issue while diving inshore, the seals certainly can problem. I felt a hang-up on my float-line and after giving it a tug, "it" tugged backed! I knew I had a pest and sure enough there was a harbor seal trying to get a free lunch from my float-line. The seal did not fear my threatening gestures and I literally had to punch the seal to get him off my fish. The gentle "prodding" from my spear tip had little affect.
-
I live by the axiom if something can go wrong it will.
Couldn't agree more Dan. I am changing out all my primary gear this year to the much more simple, and in my opinion, safest option, of diving deep water for big fish.
F*CK REELS:@
Too many close calls last year. Going to in-line guns on the float-line, with the float-line being the length of my max "comfortable" working dive depth of 75'.
-
I think with a breakaway system there's still a chance that the float line could get entangled with the gun and strap. It's hard to unbuckle anything when you're being pulled by a 200lb sounding tuna.
Had that EXACT thing happen to me last summer. Shot a big Jack and the shooting line fouled in the bands. Let go of the gun at 60', shot the fish at 35'... can't imagine trying to unbuckle that thing that fast...AIN'T GOING TO HAPPEN! Ended up losing the gun. It eventually came unfouled at some point in the fight and drifted off. We looked for the gun for an hour and never found it. Bad thing was it the first time I had ever shot the gun and it was one of a kind:( At least I got the fish, my Mori shaft and slip-tip back.
-
I want to say it is New England Ropes. It's been a while since I have had the spool, but I bought a 2000' spool some time ago. I still have a few hundred feet left after making quite a few floatlines from it. I got it for something like $0.07 a foot.
Just for a simple price breakdown, I paid $22 for a 100' length of tubing, $0.07 a foot for the dacron, $1.50 for each swivel and $1 for each quick link. In summary, I paid $32 for the parts and 15 minutes of my time to build a "premium" stlye tube floatline.
-
I don't know that I should even get started on this subject...I can;t recall how many times I have talked about the difference between the two.
Yes, the tube style lines can be VERY expensive. However, if you make it yourself, the tube style can be made for about $35 in a 100' length.
The pros and cons have been pretty well covered. I think the best attributes of the tube style, are high visibily, less drag and stretch- for shock absorbtion.
The pros of the poly rope are, as far as I am concerned, are cost AND THAT IS IT. poly ropes lines fray, tangle and snag on every piece of structure imaginable. In my opinion, they are simply not worth the hassle.
The most expensive parts of either is the hardware. I don;t find it necessary to have a "super spectra" core for a tube style floatline. After all, the line is only as good as the weakest point in the system, which is usually the shooting line. What good is a 1700lb spectra cored floatine if the shooting line is made of 400lb test mono with crimps?
I like the tube style lines for all the reason previously mentioned. I don't find the lines slippery at all. There is a bit of difference between PVC and vinyl tubing though. Vinyl tends to be a bit stiffer and a little more slick. PVC, on the other hand is very "gummy" and grips well. It also stretches nicely, giving some shock absorbtion. The line will coil nicely when it is warm and depending on the material used for the core line will either be very easy to coil and manageable, or kink and twist to no end.
Personally, I use 540lb dacron as a core line. It is very supple, has no memory, does not kink or bind and is very cheap, in comparison to spectra, with the same properties.
I have never had a tube style line get cut or punctured. Not saying that it won't ever happen. I am sure it does. I just think the benefits of the tubes tyle lines far outweighs anything that the poly lines have to offer.
-
Good point Dan.
In response, I can only offer my experiences in diving warm water compared to diving cool water, and the physiological effects that may have had some bearing on this incident. After moving to the south, and diving in waters that are 20 degrees above what I had been conditioned to diving in Southern California, the most noticeable effect I had was head-aches.I am am wondering if the warm water and relatively cool ambient air temperatures had a phyisological impact on what may have been "normal" dive practices. Not saying that the the practice of diving alone was normal. How did the body react? Were the blood vessles somehow restricted, decreased blood flow vs. "normal" bottom time? I think these are questions that need to be examined if there is to be a "lesson learned" from this tragedy. My thoughts and prayers to the family of the victim.
-
I don't think that's the case LB. Riffe makes spears with crescent notches for their euro gun. hau would have to confirm.
Thanks everyone for your input. I know there's more of you using euro/pipe guns so please post.
Yes, that is correct. Riffe makes round notched shafts. I have been using them for years in Rob Allens and Picasso guns. The 6.75mm shaft is my favorite with a single 20mm band.
And to comply with the thread, my favorite "true" euro gun is my Picasso Carbon/Wood gun in 120cm length with a 160(?) 6.75mm Riffe euro shaft.
-
Check out this site for some of the finest brews I have had.
http://ballastpointbrewingandspirits.com/Welcome.html
The Calico Amber Ale and the Yellowtail Pale Ale are my favorites!
-
Got my new suit today. I am extremely happy!
The suit is well constructed and has one of the better glue-up jobs I have seen on a suit. I was a bit concerned that the suit was going to be too small when I pulled it out of the box, but Dan assured me that the material was very soft and flexible. That was an understatement.
The cut is VERY nice. I have had an extremely difficult time in the past finding a production suit that fits me well. This is the one of the best fitting suits I have tried on in. Of course the attibutes are to the neoprene that is used. Definitely one of the softest and more flexible neoprenes I have tried. That can be a double edged sword though; usually these tend to compress quickly and lose their thermal properties within a year of HARD use. I have paid much more for suits that weren't as well constructed as this. I look forward to putting the suit to use.
Thanks Dan, for providing quality gear at an affordable price.
