Posts by John Hanson

    Just out of curiosity, what are the blade dimensions?


    I found it on your page...funny thing though. That's the first time I think, that I wasn't able to relate to American measurements:laughing3:


    I have become so accustomed to all my divegear being sized in the metric system. Now I need to go find my friggen calculator:rolleyes1:

    I also use needle nose to insert wishbones, because I also use the Dyneema. I got an idea to insert the wish bones from shooting old-timey black-powder muzzle loaders. It will save you from gouging yourself so much.


    Put the knot on the side of the pliers and just get it started or set into the rubber. I use a dab of dishsoap for lube. Then use the end of the pliers to push down on the knot.:toast:

    Post #18...to me THAT'S what a speargun should like:toast: While not a huge fan of hybrids (I do like them for some situations), the overall aesthetics of that gun is very pleasing. Bravo!

    The biggest concern I can foresee is entering and exiting the water. When you say rocky coastline, I assume you mean the ocean? If so, you will have waves to contend with when entering and exiting. That combined with slippery walking surfaces from smooth stones and algae or kelp covered rocks, poses the biggest threat. Spear tips down when walking out! Sea Urchins are also another factor to consider. When swimming in, keep tips pointed back toward the ocean. Don't be afraid to do the "crawl of shame" when getting out. Better that then breaking an ankle trying to navigate rocks after having been in the water for a couple hours and having your equilibrium all screwed up.


    Before entering, scout the area to see if there are protected coves or pockets where entering and exiting will be made easier by natural barriers protecting against waves and surge. I also suggest timing the waves and sets, and counting how many waves in a set. Enter and exit accordingly. Check with your local tidal charts to see what time the tide changes are and how much of a rise or fall is predicted. This will also help you to be able to gauge visibility. A fast long drop usually creates dirty conditions. A slow rise will usually be indicative of cleaner water and better viz.


    As far as how far apart you should be, the best answer is within sight, while under water. Obviously that a hard thing to do. I usually try to go for yelling distance, and always try to get a visual when coming up from a dive.

    Welcome.:toast:


    Just a suggestion for those soft flesh fish; Take one of the bands off your gun and use a flopper shaft that is made of one piece of steel, with a tri-cut tip, instead of a threaded tip. It won't tear such a big hole in the fish on the shot. The 6.75mm (17/64" or a 1/4") shaft would be ideal.

    Looking forward to the 1.5mm suit:toast:


    By the way, the Speardiver blades in the pockets I sent you worked out great. VERY happy with them!


    Hopefully this new pattern will be available soon. I would really like it in the 1.5mm , as that is the suit I use most often in the GOM. It's just too warm to use anything thicker for most of the year or at least the times when we get most of our diving done. The pattern looks like it will blend in quite well with the rig legs and cross members. Helpful when lying aspetto waiting on those wary snappers and groupers; but enough of an interesting pattern to provoke the curiosity of the jacks and other pelagics in open water.

    I like it as well. Would definitely like to have one. I like the tan in it actually. Most of the greens on the current suits seem to get too dark when wet.


    Dan, on the subject of new wetsuits ideas, did anything ever come of the 1.5mm suits? Still looking to get one from you. I think this would be an awesome pattern to have one in:D

    Glad you're getting out Keith. Im stuck out here in the California desert until this fall. Another year of missed opportunity for WR Red Snapper:(

    Well the nice thing about these is that you can change the handle by removing the 1/4"x20 bolt from the inside and put any after- market AR handle on it.


    I bought 3 different handles from Midway USA. Some of them have a rounded section coming off the top that may need to be cut off in order to installed on this frame.


    I found one that was very similar in feel to the Alexander handle. I don't know what it is. The handle is back at home and I'm out in CA for a while. Sorry I cant be of more help.

    In further detail, I will explain my confusion.


    I have never seen or handled a roller gun in person. My only experience with them is through photos. I have only ever seen a photo of a roller gun with the bands loaded on the tabs of the shaft or with no bands on the gun at all. I now understand, that in the contracted state of the band, the wishbone would actually rest at or near the muzzle.


    Again, it may sound silly but I had never really put any thought into it before. But, I had this vision that the band would lie as a circular would in the contracted state. I never had any interest in the guns to begin with just because of of the complexity of the build.


    I appreciate all those that that took the time to explain the concept. I learned a lot:toast: