Posts by Akira dkt

  • Hi from California!

    Welcome Pam,


    Fish skulls are challenging and fun to piece together.


    Depending on your OCD...:S lol


    Heres some general instructions


    1. cut away as much flesh as you can (cheek meat, skull near SO crest, etc)
    2. boil water, and immerse entire head in it for 15-30 seconds at a time.
    -this will breakdown collagen and cartilage allowing you to pull and scrape off skin and meat
    3. do this carefully for only a 15-30 seconds at a time. if a bone drops into the soup, youll have a fun time finding it.
    4. once it starts getting pretty clean (most muscle and connective tissue scraped off) you can start to manually remove flesh.
    5. if any bones come off, super glue them back asap. or remember where they came from.
    6. when you cant really reach or dont want to scrape or pick off stinky meat from your skull, soak in bleach water, or peroxide.
    -peroxide is better than bleach, but bleach works faster
    -bleach causes bones to yellow and fall apart over time if over soaked, peroxide is less corrosive
    7.use a skill diagram of a teliost fish to aid in remembering where all the bones should be glued.
    8. dont over boil or bleach,, you want your connective tissue to be your glue, only super glue if a piece falls off. (dont let skull fall apart)
    9.......If youre crazy and love puzzles you can totaly boil the skull and piece it back together..ive seen it done...its amazing...but...It takes forever FOREVER!!
    10. This is a long process, have a fridge ready to hold beer and preserve skull so you dont get maggots.
    11. actually i know of people who use maggots to clean their skulls.....thats fn gross.
    12.....Jaws are easier, just 8 bones you can boil the shit out of and piece back together,,,much more time to spend fishing an cooking fish rather than screwing with a skull.



    Goodluck:thumbup::thumbup:


    dont slice your fingers on the teeth.


    Josh.

  • Rollergun advice?

    first off, no worries, youll find a way to slay some fish no matter your setup..
    second..
    If shooting reef fish... you probably wont be shooting from 15 ft away... most of my shots with my 120 are withing 10ft from spear tip to fish.


    to the problem...
    Is the muzzle you have made for the MAKO PP?
    MVD makes muzzles for specific models.


    Makos in my experience have a very high rail, if the muzzle was not made for a mako, the elevators may be too low.


    When the band is not loaded, does the shaft touch the wishbone when you insert it?







    id use 16mm rubber, much easier loading,
    if using 7mm shaft, 18mm rubber may be causing shaft whip


    post your exact current setup so we can figure it out.
    :thumbup:


    josh

  • line anchor

    If you have a quality reel that is mounted properly, it should be able to take the pressure of a fighting 20lb fish. IMO. regardless if the anchor holds or pops off. . . and if your reel does jam and youre not tagged up.. or do not have a belt reel.. I would rather lose my reel and shooting line than my entire setup.


    That said, what Dan said is something to think about, shit happens. Its happened to me with large fish where line anchors pop out (to be fair it was a ss wire glued into delrin....not the best idea MVD) and reels pop off after a jam (cressi comanche reel.... nuff said).


    Whatever you choose to build your gun with, make sure you are prepared for these shit happenings.:thumbup::thumbup:


    goodluck
    dive safe


    Josh

  • Rollergun advice?

    I was going to try to bend them back into shape, but when i noticed the crack in the spigot I scrapped it.


    Im using a southafrican style Torelli shaft with line tied to the back end. I had the same worries when i first started using rollers, and I used sharkfins (until i lost it in a hole to a knifejaw aka. living anchor)


    With sharkfins i think it is important to load the bands to the last sharkfin behind the line loop (especially if they are higher profile) that way it doesnt hit or slice your wishbone.


    With notched shafts where the line is tied to the end i had no problems until the muzzles wishbone elevators started bending.


    I havent seen the new gen muzzles yet, but if they are like the new aimrite roller muzzles it should work fine. the elevators are low on these as well, but I haven't heard any problems yet. (just got one of these a few weeks ago,,,, I have yet to put it on a gun.

  • Rollergun advice?

    Quote from Hookinfish

    What am I not seeing Akira? How is it broken or bad? I'm not familiar with the mizzle. Im just trying to understand whats wrong in the pictures.Thanks.


    The ss wishbone elevators are bowed inward. They used to run parallel. with this, my shaft and shooting line upon exiting the muzzle began to chaffe resulting in my shots to go off.


    (They are made of what I assume is 316ss but are not very thick or reinforced by the muzzle itself.)


    I would have run the muzzle a bit longer, but after noticing this, I took the muzzle off and found a large crack in the spigot originating from the screw hole.


    (Delrin, in my experience is a very useful plastic, but it does tend to crack and chip more readily than composites like fiber/kevlar reinforced nylons, and even abs. I dont think it is an ideal plastic for muzzles. )

    After finding this i took it apart, saving the sheevs for a custom roller build;)

  • Rollergun advice?


    gregaz,


    It wont explode or anything. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
    and it doesnt happen all at once.
    but this is my experience with the MVD Pro.




    this is after hundreds of shots with this gun.

  • line anchor

    If you are using it as a reel line guide it should be fine, but if you're tying a bungee to it and using a tagline, I wouldn't trust it.


    Make sure you crimp or score the end of the rod (where you insert into wood or composite). epoxy doesnt stick well to ss, (metal vs wood expansion etc....)
    this will increase surface area increasing adhesion.

  • Speargun accidents watch where you point it!

    "...when affrin doesn't work...and the netti pot is home...theres only one way to clear the sinuses..." <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">



    but seriously, this guy is lucky...coulda been luckier... but lucky.

  • Rollergun advice?


    Not sure about Jamaicas customs laws (you should check on that.


    but its still an effective roller muzzle. just cant pretension much. On my 120 i run 21" bands pretensioned just a few inches (just to keep the wishbone on the elevator after the rubber stretches out a bit). these are tied to the trigger guard.


    the shot on long pretensioned bands is slow in comparison to a double banded (hole muzzle) shot.
    It is not really noticable unless you use both styles of speargun a lot and interchangebly. but it is there.


    On my 100cm I run 50cm bands pretensioned to appx 100cm. then this is loaded another 100cm to the sharkfins or notches. I dont have any actual measurements but I feel that a single roller band like this does not put as much pressure on the shaft as two circular bands. The roller will shoot with appx. as much force as the conventional set up, only because of the extended time of acceleration (band stretch). The circular bands will accelerate the shaft faster but for a shorter time (shorter band stretch).


    sorry if this makes no sense.


    good luck
    dive safe,
    Josh

  • Rollergun advice?

    Hi Gregaz,


    Pretensioning to the barrel/handle coupling works really well!....much easier set up than using the cord through the trigger guard, and it balances the gun a lot better too.


    Couple of things to consider-
    1. pretensioning this much requires a rather long rubber (generally half the length of the barrel) this means the shot will be smoother but slower...not too slow but it is noticeable.


    2. Mvd Muzzles are not made for pretension. (they clearly state this on the flyer/info sheet.
    My go to gun for a while was a 100cm roller much like the setup you have, after a while though, the wishbone stop/elevator became bent in toward the track.


    If you wish to pretension back to the handle I would go with mannysub or aimrite muzzles these are much sturdier.


    Hope this helps.
    dive safe
    Josh

  • Cobia in the Pacific?

    Sounds interesting. Id be worried only about competition with pelagic/semi pelagic predators in the near future,, that is if they become established... hard to say if they can even compete with existing yellowtail, amberjack and other jacks in the area to become established.

  • Shaft swap

    Quote from Dude george

    Dude I love when you talk gun porn!! <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">
    I would add one simple tip, lots of guns are now going thicker shafts that previously could not or would not, the reason you ask? The ability to put on the small inner diameter rubbers allows you to power the heavier shafts without having to add another rubber to your set up, and no big increase in recoil! Get some small id rubber bro if you dont have already, i actually went down to 14 mm verses my old 16mm


    Been reading a lot about that stuff. Never tried it but if u recommend it, there must be something to it.&#128516;

  • Shaft swap


    Thanks for the advice . I think I'll try the 130cm 7.5mm.


    I didn't think about the balance of the gun with the 140cm. Shaft


    Yeah...longer gun = longer shot....But the 100 is so comfortable&#128553;, oh well I better suck it up and work on my stalking skills.&#128518;&#128518;.


    I shoot a lot of rocks... Ergo carbon steel shaft. &#128514;&#128514; keeps sharp when spring steel would be flattened.

  • Shaft swap

    Hi guys, just wanted opinions on spear shaft length and diameter preferences.


    For much of my spearfishing life I have used shafts up to 9/32 in for all of my guns, 50cm to 130cm.
    I've narrowed my preference to carbon steel (RA, Torelli, Spearmaster) style euro shafts because of their low price and durability.
    My go to gun is currently a 100cm carbon franken gun (aimrite procomp barrel, Pathos D2 mech/handle, mvd roller muzzle). Its a dedicated reef gun, for long and close range fish.


    I have a 140cm carbon steel torelli shaft in 7mm. This setup seems to work, and i have landed plenty of fish with it. I do however have problems with full penetration on some longish shots on thicker fish.
    Im wondering if i should switch my 7mm trusty rusty, with a 7.5 or 8mm shaft of the same or shorter length.


    Theoretically this would be advantageous to me...theoretically. based on these thoughts
    -shorter shaft=stiffer shaft
    -thicker shaft=stiffer shaft
    --Im hoping with a thicker shaft, more energy will be transferred to the shot, with less shaft whip, also a heavier shaft will result in more momentum and penetration.
    -with a roller muzzle recoil should be manageable even with the heavier shaft.



    any thoughts?

  • Okinawa spearfishing

    Quote from Shortofbreath

    Ohayo! After a hiatus from spearfishing the reefs of Hawaii, I'll be relocating to Okinawa. Very much interested in getting back into the water this coming summer (~June 1016). First time to Oki, so if you have any advice on do's/don'ts or looking for a dive buddy, please let me know.


    I'm advanced scuba certified, practice safety and conservation and I love fish...especially with ginger sauce.


    Cheers.
    Bach


    Also, welcome!!:thumbup:

  • Best speargun 90cm ?

    Quote from hank

    Yep, I've seen it with my own eyes.


    IMG]http://i1337.photobucket.com/a…04466_zpsb4a9040e.jpg</a>[/url]


    Ive used a Geronimo elite for a short while. Long bands are a must, to prevent recoil. (the gun is light)
    I never did like the handle(mech) though, for one, a pin style release allows for a single wrap (if using heavy mono). The trigger is plastic and uses a complicated roller sear system, (ive had the trigger stick in the fired position with bands loaded, i literally hit the mech to fire off a shot.) This only happend when i anchored the shaft at the end, behind the euro notch. Sharkfins and dog house anchors worked fine.
    I much prefer the new yuma/mohicano/comanche style trigger mech....atleast for cressi.

  • Band stretch

    Just think of the center of your wishbone as your anchor point...(obvious)^^
    mark (on shaft) where this is when bands are taut but not stretching.=100% then measure from this mark to your desired tab/notch/fin. there's your band stretch.=BS%


    calculate % by doing maths
    StretchLength/TautLength*100=%BS
    (ex; 30in bands=appx 15inTautLength, stretched on a 120cm barrel=appx 47in
    47/15=appx. 3.13*100=313%stretch


    I think primeline has TautLength at 0% but i like to think of an unstretched band as 100%


    aaaaannnnnywhooo.....


    Try to keep it simple, short wishbone, long band stretch 300% when using >7.5mm shafts, and shorter band stretch 350% when using thicker shafts. I try not to exceed 350% unless using a roller.

  • Hi from the UK :)

    Quote from tonyeynon

    Thanks bud this is great information, really appreciate it :)


    I mentioned above to hank that I would love to partner with someone who offers trips over there, can you recommend anyone to contact and talk to?


    Ascension wise, you defo need to experience it, even if its just once - its like the wild west out there when anything can and often does happen, a fantastic experience :)


    the only person I can think of is Rob White of Blue Water Hunter Kona. I know there are guys who do small time charters (side jobs) but Rob has probably the best known spearfishing charter business in Hawaii.