Posts by Wishihadgills

    You can fit pretty much all of your gear if you pack it well. The Number 3 is larger but doesn't extend as far as the number 2. Since you have the euro 130 you would probably need the Number 2.


    Just google Sportube to look at the exact specs.

    You will not fit in a 40-42. As to how loose the 42-44 will be, it's hard to say. I think there will be room for a 3mm sock.


    Footpocket sizing from one manufacturing usually has nothing to do with sizing from another.


    Not only is sizing between manufacturers not consistent but sizing within a manufacturer are not always consistent either. What I mean by that is some companies have a fin that they call a 40-42 and it may be slightly smaller than a "true" 40-42. the same company may offer a 42-44 that is larger than a "true" 42-44.


    Dan's method of taking a foot measurement and comparing it to actual measurements of footpockets is the only way to accurately size the pocket without trying it on. Trying it on is still the best way because every foot is different but Dan's method is very good.

    Welding can weaken the shaft so its generally not recommended unless you want to heat treat the entire shaft again after. The two options above are your best bet.

    The data that the Greek study provided correlates with what is known about shooting firearms. When a right handed shooter shooting with only their right hand fires a pistol the recoil will cause the gun to move up and to the left because this is the path of least resistance. When gripping with only one hand the weakness of the grip is towards the fingers hence the the left recoil in a right handed shooter and the right recoil in a left handed shooter. Shooting with two hands can prevent this by supporting both sides of the pistol. The best way to prevent the muzzle jump is to bring the top of the hand as close to inline with the bore axis. This is seen in a lot of speargun designs as well. In "tactical" pistol shooting a tight grip is recommended for a couple reasons. The first is trigger control. When using a soft grip flexing ONLY the index finger can be tricky. The hand has a tendency to flex all of the fingers slightly. In pistol shooting this can throw off the shot ever so slightly. A tight grip can help this. If you dont believe me take your off hand and act as if you were gripping a gun. Now move your index finger as if you were pulling a trigger. Notice how your other fingers flinch. Now curl your middle, ring and pinky fingers tightly into your palm and repeat and notice the differences. The other big advantage of the tight grip is it prevents the pistol from being knocked out of your hand in a combat scenario. Obviously you wont be worried about someone knocking the gun out of your hand but a firm grip can also steady your aim to some degree.


    Now the above is in regards to pistol shooting but I believe that it has some impact on a speargun. Controlling muzzle flip and recoil on some spearguns is very important. Others have a very smooth recoil and arent as wild. I personally have noticed that if I dont make an effort to really control the recoil of one of my guns I have a tendency to hit a little high. Now in a speargun you have a much longer barrel and a much more viscous medium so the tiniest of movements arent as detrimental but on long shots it may be the difference in a solid hit and a tear out.


    Another variation from pistol shooting is the variety of shot scenarios that will be performed while spearfishing. To me this is the biggest factor of how I grip the weapon. If I am holding onto the bottom I will obviously be shooting with one hand. How firm my grip is depends on what I am shooting at. On long shots or in open water (not shooting into a hole) I prefer a firm grip to limit recoil. If I am shooting into a hole I will use a looser grip. The reason being that I dont want to injure my wrist if the gun kicks back when the shaft hits a rock. This is especially true for an enclosed track gun where you almost have to pull the gun back as you shoot to prevent ripping up the track.

    Another scenario involves a mid-water shot where both hands are free. I prefer the two handed grip because thats how I shoot a pistol and it is very instinctive as I have lots of practice doing this and it works. Sometimes depending on the gun or the angle I might have one hand on the grip and the other on the back of the gun to prevent getting smacked in the face.


    In general I would say it boils down more to preference and the scenario than it does to which one is ultimately most accurate. I would say there are many more influential factors that grip as long as you know how your gun performs with different grips. I also hadnt considered how "aggressive" the two handed approach might seem.


    And just for clarification what I am describing as firm is a little harder than a normal handshake, with loose being how you would shake a woman's hand and tight being trying to break your buddies fingers. Sorry this got kinda lengthy.

    None can be ordered with exact prescriptions. There is simply too much variation and too small of a market for a manufacturer to be able to afford it. That being said the closest thing you can find is the Tusa Liberator/Scubapro Solara. These are the same mask with a different brand and both use the same system of interchangeable lenses. The lenses come in .5 increments from 1.0 up to around 8.0. As far as i know they only correct up close vision and dont have a prescription for distance. Both of these masks are relatively bulky as far as a freediving mask goes but if you cant see then it doesnt matter how small the mask is.


    The only other option that I have heard of involves taking the mask to a local optical center that is diver friendly. I have heard of some of them that will glue a piece of glass to the inside of the mask and custom grind that to your prescription. This isnt available everywhere and is probably fairly expensive but is the most precise fit available.


    Also I know of some people that will dive with their contacts in. It can be a problem if your mask floods but if you have a mask that fits well then you can get by doing this.

    When a spear is fired the bands convert their potential energy into kinetic energy which causes the shaft to move. Not complicated. When the shaft strikes a rock or some other rigid object, this energy cant be transferred to the rock and so it is converted into heat and sound in the form of a vibration. You have all heard the ping when the shaft hits and if you have every repeatedly bent a wire you know it will warm up. However, these deformations and vibrations cannot occur instantaneously. A high-velocity collision (an impact) does not provide sufficient time for these deformations and vibrations to occur. As a result the material behaves as if it were more brittle than it is. Thats why steel which is usually a ductile material snaps as if it was brittle.


    You may wonder why this doesn't happen more often. Kinetic energy is proportional to velocity squared v^2. If the velocity is cut in half the kinetic energy is cut by a factor of 4. Drag, the force that slows the spear down, is also proportional to the v^2. The force of drag is highest when velocity is highest. As a result, the kinetic energy of the spear drops fairly quickly after the shaft leaves the gun. Once the kinetic energy has dropped below a certain point it can be more easily converted into the deformation of the material. In the case of steel which is malleable the tip gets smashed or dulled.


    Other factors such as fatigue - microscopic cracks from repeated impact, impurities and irregularities in the steel, type of rock, angle of impact, and others also effect the this scenario.

    I've seen a couple spears broken like that. Like Dan said usually it's at the flopper pin or at the threads but under the right circumstances (blasting into rock) it can happen.

    Putting anything over acrylic paint wont work very well. The purpose for a varnish, oil or epoxy is to seal the wood and prevent water absorption. The paint by itself will not seal the wood. If you have already painted the wood I would recommend something like a polyurethane wood sealer to put on top of the paint. If you have not started painting yet I would recommend sealing the wood first, with either polyurethane or epoxy, and then painting on top of that. The polyurethane and epoxy form a stronger bond with the wood than the paint and will give you a smooth surface to paint on.

    Cool vid. Thats an awesome cubera. I always find it interesting how much more curious the fish seem in the videos of deep dives. Contrasted with my own experience in shallower depths nothing that big will let you get anywhere near it except a Jewfish.

    I would say hi-vis yellow and orange are pretty popular. Beyond those they are mostly aesthetic. Although I would say a small amount of blue and possibly even black wouldn't be a bad idea.


    I currently use hi-vis yellow but would use hi-vis orange or even pink. I just happened to get a good deal on some yellow.

    I think the confusion is in the name SEA Bass. Ramon the fish pictured in the above post is known in the states as a snook. Centropomus undecimalis. What others are referring to is the white sea bass commonly found in California. Atractoscion nobilis. The corvina that you guys are referring to is Cilus gilberti.


    From what I found both the corvina and the white sea bass are in the croaker family of fish (also known as the drum family) or the Sciaenidae family. other fish that fall in this family include the red drum (redfish) and black drum.

    In my experience Gopro has been really bad with selling individual parts. I know a few people that lost or broke the clasps and there is no way to order a replacement. Dan, I think a dealer can talk to their rep and ask for some parts but thats about it. It's definitely annoying.

    Awesome vid. It's really cool to see footage of other places and from other people POV. And of course STUD fish.


    How do you have your camera mounted? Are you using the head strap?


    Like Judah mentioned you might want to cut down some of the time between the action. Its surprising how ADD people get watching these videos. I guess were all so used to highlight reels we dont appreciate the rest of the footage. One thing Ive learned in the the videos Ive made is that what seems about the right amount of filler to the person doing the filming is too long to someone who wasnt there.


    Also, did you speed up some of that video or are you really moving that quickly underwater? In that first drop and the one at 1:10 it looks like your zooming.