The gun I built last summer has the trigger mech pocket cut all the way through.and it has held up fine. There arent many, if any, forces up and down on the mech. Almost all of the forces are focused on either the pins or the front wall of the pocket. As long as those two elements are solid you wont have a problem.
I think it looks fine. NIce work and Im really interested to see how the automotive clear holds up.
Nice grouper! Sucks about that shaft.
Do you sell that housing separately?
I would try reinforcing it with some fiberglass tape and thickened G-flex.
I havent gotten a chance to use it yet, I was out of town for the weekend. I hope to get a chance to try it out this weekend.
The fins and pockets come from omer with those long clips and there is usually an alternate set of small clips. At Austin's we switch them as soon as they arrive and throw the long clips in the trash. Im glad the guy is ok but kind of surprised he didnt think to drop his weight belt.
The G-flex epoxy that I used is more elastic than most epoxies which makes it a little better for plastics. I also made sure to rough both surfaces thoroughly with sand paper and make sure some of the epoxy got into the tripod mount hole. It also depends on the type of plastic. There are a couple types of plastic that wont form a good bond with epoxy even if they are roughed up.
Nate thanks for the tip Ill try to remember that when Im using it.
Dan Ill try the steel wool but the mask has kind of a matte finish already so I think high grit sand paper should be sufficient. Ill work on the looks when I get a little more free time.
Ok so the epoxy has had a chance to cure and the mount is definitely NOT going anywhere. The bond is so strong I would break the actual mount before I could break the bond. I also put the mask on and tested if the weight of the camera would break the seal of the mask. Even without the strap on and shaking my head vigorously it would not break the seal. Its definitely heavier and idk how comfortable it will be to wear but that will take some further testing. Heres a few pics after I remover the excess plastic and epoxy. It doesnt obstruct my vision at all but if I look up I can just see the GoPro bolt and the little silver nut.
It came out great. Only just a hair off but its so slight i doubt it will affect the video. The difference in the color of area that has been sanded and the original plastic is much less dramatic in reality. The flash from the camera makes it look weird.
It hasnt finished curing. Ill check how securely it is attached when its finished curing. I am kinda worried about how much the camera will pull but that mask fits me so well I dont think it will be a huge deal. If anything the fact the that frame and seal are connected should make the camera more secure.
Finally got some time off and a chance to start one of my many summer projects. I went past West Marine to pick up some G-flex epoxy and some black pigment and started in.
First step was to tape off the lenses and silicone skirt. Next I used some sand paper to rough up the plastic frame and the bottom of the GoPro tripod mount.
Then I mixed up the G-flex epoxy using the West Systems 403 microfibers to thicken it and then added a little black pigment so that it would match the plastic. Once it was thick enough not to run, I globed it on and aligned everything. Then began controlling the epoxy until it cured enough to be left alone.
Are the numbers still on there?
My suggestion would be be to apply another coat. If the epoxy is thin enough that you sanded through in some areas it probably should be thicker. This will also give the most uniform look. But I was also a little ocd when I epoxied my gun.
I dont think it is "necessary" but it I think it helps. I had a ton of it from my pine wood derby days and its pretty easy to find online. I also like how the black track looks but there are other ways to change the color.
Looks like a good sized blue shark.
Unless you want to use the fins for deep diving, dedicated freediving or you know for certain that you want a longer fin then I would suggest the c90's. They are a great all around fin and more than enough for 100ft+ dives.
I have a set of c90's in Pathos pockets and they are extremely light and powerful yet very maneuverable.
When/Why did you stop offering the warranty with the Pathos pockets?
Just an update.
Ive decided to make 3 guns total. The first gun will be a true 120 with an enclosed track. This will be my personal gun and my first step into blue water hunting and may see some use on some spooky snapper.
The second gun has been claimed. It will be a 130 with a Speardiver Euro Mech.
The last gun is still available. I plan on making the blank to be a 140 rear handle plus, that way I can shorten it to any desired length or configuration. I also plan on using a Speardiver mech on this gun as well but it will be up to the buyer which variation they would like.
As long as the ratio was correct before adding the pigment you should be ok. Assuming the pigment is safe for the epoxy.
Unless the ratio is just right then you wont get a complete cure. If too much hardener is used then the excess hardener gets trapped in the epoxy matrix. The pigment shouldnt have an effect as long as you mix the resin and hardener properly before you add the pigment. If you add the pigment before you mix then it can throw off your ratio.
Did you by chance mix the different epoxies? That could also cause problems.
Sounds like the ratio was off. You can see if it finally hardens after a few more days but more than likely youll have to sand it off and try again. What epoxy are you using?
