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I have a new batch of camera mounts for sale. There are 8 in this batch, in these sizes:

(2) for 1.25" barrels (JBL, Aimrite Super Venom, larger hybrid tubes)
(2) for Rob Allen or larger Mako Barrels
(2) for 1.10" diameter Rabitech or smaller Mako barrels
(1) for 1" diameter hybrid barrel
(1) that is unfinished and can be bored to suit (for example to fit a 1.125" Aimrite aluminum Venom, or 1.170" CF Venom)

So far as I know, there have been no issues with fitting aluminum barrels, or carbon fiber barrels with molded in tracks, or narrow plastic ones. Erik Sun at Sumora did recently tell me that there can be some interference on carbon fiber barrels with wider glued-on plastic tracks. If the mount doesn't fit your gun right, or if you don't like it for any reason at all, I will pay return shipping and either adjust the mount or refund the price.

The 1.25" mounts are $60 shipped by Priority Mail. All others are $55 shipped.

No particular reason, and I'm certainly not opposed to doing it the standard way. I just got to looking around, and noticed that there were different ways of wrapping the line, and wondered what the advantages or disadvantages might be to each.

This is what I meant by a more "torturous" path for the shooting line. It would be very easy to make this arrangement, as it would simply require two short pins projecting from the front of the muzzle. They would only need to be 1/4" long, and could be relatively large diameter since they wouldn't stick up above the top of the gun and be in the sight line.

I can see where this would work fine for notched shafts. But I wondered if the shooting line would clear in time, or if shark finned shafts might be a problem.

I'll see if I can relocate the pictures. In some muzzles, the wrap of the line seemed more torturous, and I wondered if the line would actually lift up as you describe, or simply peel off the front after the shaft had passed.

I was looking at some pictures. I also wondered if some of the tighter rail gun wraps would be a problem with a shark finned shaft? I can see where a notched shaft would glide smoothly beneath a tighter wrap.

Pic?

Dan - Good point that a nearly flush plate might resist damage better.

Alvin - I don't think that I can leave a little nub of delrin like the photos. And so far as I know, you can't reliably glue delrin to delrin. I'll have to attach a separate guide, but I think I can make something that looks like it belongs.

I'm sketching up an open muzzle design that I want to try on my hybrid. Although I'm generally familar with the way the shooting line wraps, are there any details that I should pay special attention to?

For example, is a simple pin as effective as a small countoured plate? Is the difference only cosmetic?

Any secrets to where the pin should be located? Or will pretty much anywhere on the muzzle do?

Pictures of any installs that you considered especially good, or especially bad, would be great. Thanks.

Monster,

Last time he came out in my boat Cam didn't even use a gun very much. He shot a big mahi and a wahoo with a pole spear.

I was shooting my "small" 2 band reel gun in the pool yesterday and I measured the distance from the handle to the tip of the spear after it came up a little short of the target when I shot it with 1 wrap. I was a little surprised that it was 19.7 feet. I generally shoot with 2 wraps and while the vast majority of my shots are less than 12 feet, I take some fish beyond the 1 wrap distance. My point is that with 2 powerful bands on a long gun with 2 wraps, you can shoot just about anything; except you can't take long shots at big, thick fish which will require lots of power to push through.

Chad

Quote from pargo

I also don't know what his new handle is like.

I have a couple early versions of his new handles to play with, and I think that they will be very popular. The grips are just rubbery enough to not feel slippery, and the shape is nice. It's just a little bigger than I would like, but I have small hands. I think most people are going to love it.

Monster,

I don't disagree that the SeaSniper is an awesome gun, and one of the guys in the video might of had one, but Cam was doing the filming and he uses a Riffe Euro.

I've used the Suunto Mosquito in the past and now use the Suunto D4. While overpriced, it is one of my most important pieces of gear. I almost never look at it while at depth, but the feedback while breathing up is very valuable. The biggest being length of time on the surface - I almost always feel like I'm ready to dive again after about 1 minute on the surface. Depending on the depth and time of the previous dive that is generally 1 or 2 minutes sooner than I like to go back down. Also, being able to see the max depth and dive time of the last dive coupled with how it felt, lets me guage how I'm diving and lets me track progress when I start settling into diving well.

While I think the D4 is the best available, all of them will do just fine with the features that I use for freediving.

Since I will throw a tank on about 1 time a year, the D4 is also nice in that it will handle Nitrox scuba diving. Since we dive pretty deep, it is nice having a computer that I'm familiar with - I wouldn't want to be learning a computer on a deep dive.

No, I haven't had any fail completely yet, but I have the perception that pure carbon blades while better in terms of weight and performance, are more fragile than fiberglass or kevlar in terms of blades breaking.

I would love to see testing that actually compared the failure point of different blades.

I've seen videos of blades being run over, hit with hammers while backed by anvils, and bent in half, but what happens if you hit a blade with a hammer that is bent in half? Not saying hit it hard - just would like to know if they are fragile when loaded.

As you say, I don't care in the least about cosmetic scratches, etc. I just want to know that I don't have to baby my high priced fins, and that I don't have to worry that one will break in half at depth if I kick a rig leg while fighting to get a fish out.

Kevlar isn't as strong as carbon fiber on a stiffness or "ultimate strength" basis, but it's still much stronger than glass. And there are lots of other variables to a composite structure.

There is a chart at the bottom of this page on the Soller Composites website that is a good comparision. I couldn't seem to get it to upload as an attachment.

http://www.sollercomposites.co…s-sock.html#strengthchart

Dan, I would be happy to test them in what have to be the worst conditions possible for fins, the rigs.

We have to surface swim against currents a good bit, dive deep at times, maneuver in and around the rig legs, and the fins quite often take hits against the metal rig legs.

Pulling AJ's up from 70-80 with a reel, while keeping them out of the rig, in 300' of water is no joke.

Here's a picture of my current relatively new blades.

I don't know. It just looks boring. I know it's completely functional, but it just seems out of place on this gun.

I also dion't like the way it looks when I sight down the barrel. It's kind of hard to explain, but it's almost like it camouflages the end of the barrel. Sort of like if you have ever driven a car with a gently rouned hood, and noticed that it can be tough to tell exactly where the end is.

Pantoja pana tengo una duda en la temporada de pesca de langostas no tienen limite por persona medidas es que yo nunca tuve oportunidad de pescarlas mientras vivi en florida

I'll post up a full thread when it's done, but I am not quite finished. The body of the gun is complete, and the trigger mech is installed. The shapelock handle is ready. I just need to make a new muzzle, and do the pushrod and line release.

Come to think of it, maybe I'll make my new muzzle enclosed, and cut this one down to an open style. Then I can try both, and see which I prefer.

I don't have enough experience with different guns to say which is easier to load. In this case, I was really just trying to keep the top of the muzzle at the same height as the top of the enclosed track at the rear of the gun, so that you are sighting parallel to the shaft when you look down the gun.

But I certainly could cut away the top of the muzzle and make it an "open" style if need be.

Remember also that there is an enclosed track for the first 26" of the wood stock at the rear of the tube. Hopefully, that will get the shaft started off right.