Posts by Guest

Both muzzles look great. I'm sure you could sell a bunch at that price.

How bad is the pain in the arse factor of doing the line anchor that way? I would think that the bending after putting it through the plastic would be hard to get just right.

Thanks. I've got enough shaft here to make about 8 more muzzles. If I need more than that, I'll give you a shout.

Quote from Adrian

That's a fair price given the added features and benefits. Its not like we need to replace muzzles every month. I was the one that requested this particular muzzle so I am ok with it. I asked you how many you had made because I was interested in two. If you want me to try this one out before making more that's fine too.

I don't have enough material on hand to make more, so why don't you try this one first. In the meantime, I'll order enough material to make up 4 or 5, and wait to hear how you like it.

Quote from griswold

How's your hybrid coming? <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

I did make some progress today, smartass <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

I made a 3-band open muzzle to try. Since I'm so left eye dominant (but right handed), I wondered if I might prefer the line wrapped on the opposite (right) side of the shaft, so I cut line slots in both sides. I stopped short of adding a second pin on top, but I may play with it and see if there's any noticeable difference.

How's your hybrid coming? <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

There's just the one right now, but I could make a batch. I figured Adrian could give it a try and see if any changes are required. Not quite sure on a price. Would $45 be fair?

Adrian - The spike is pressed in (yes Dan, I mean "pressed" this time, not "hammered" ). I drilled the hole slightly undersized, and used my milling machine vise to squeeze the spike into the hole.

Quote from pargo

<img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">  Well done. I don't understand though how you managed those elongated holes in the fence post? I figured at most you'd get a round indentation. Did you use a downward stabbing motion? What do you think we do with our sharks <img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin">

I swung it downward, to put as much effort into breaking the spike out the bottom as I could.

As for the sharks, I would probably be swinging blindly and screaming like a little girl. But that's just my preferred approach. Your style may be different. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

"All Tin Man products are subjected to rigorous quality assurance tesing using only the finest pressure treated pine fenceposts . . ."

The curves hide it a little in the pictures, but there is 1/8" of Delrin at the thinnest point beneath the spike. The spike goes in all the way to the line anchor, which is about 1-1/4". I hadn't thought about testing it against a tree.

Ok Adrian, it's done! I'll get it in the mail Monday.

This is to fit his aluminum Rob Allen tuna barrel. The band holes are 9/16" diameter, and the shark spike is 9/32" diameter by about 2" long. Just a simple 1/8" pin on top for the line wrap, and you can see how I did the bottom line anchor.

The design may look overly simple, but I kind of like the "no nonsense" look. It was also partly an experiment on my part to see how practical it would be for me to make more if there is any interest. As it turned out, the line anchor is by far the most aggravating part.

Oh, and Adrian. It's a nice, snug fit. So get it lined up right before you tap it in because you don't want to take it out . . .

Some people in the PFI course used a similar mask. In that course everyone wants to see how deep they can go, so it's OK to sacrifice to get absolute minimal volume. The downside of that mask is that the curved lense distorts the image. Also, the fact that it's plastic means that it scratches easily, and isn't as clear as glass even from the start.

Techisub Micromask. I've been through about 8 masks and after diving this one for the first time I bought a 2nd as a backup.

The only way I can think of making it better would be to have the option of an amber tinted lens. I've found that this can matter in certain water/light conditions.

I am now the proud owner of 1 waterways blade because I assumed that my H. Dessault footpockets would hold the blades without screws or any other means of securing the blades in place.

I loaned the fins to a rookie friend and he allowed the blade to sink to the bottom in 200' and a ripping current.

I will certainly be securing all future blades to the footpockets. I like the zip tie idea and will use it. Your explanation makes perfect sense, no video needed for me.

Dan, I got my blades today. They look great. I saw in a picture that you were securing them in the foot pockets with a zip tie. Have you found this to be the best way?

Ok, I've got a handle to play with. I'm now trying to figure out exactly which parts of the shape would need to be replicated in a replacment handle, and which would not.

The rounded base should be easy enough. The depression on the left side of the trigger slot (is this for the safety?) will also be easy.

What is the depression at the front for? Is this just hollow to reduce the quantity of plastic required, or does something go there? What about the small hole at the rear of the cavity?

Also a question about the trigger slot. It appears to be wider at the top, and narrower where it is recessed into the trigger guard. The Riffes that I have seen have a simple pivotting trigger, so the exact width of the trigger slot is probably unimportant as long as there is clearance. Do some models have a sliding trigger?

Thanks for any insight.

That would certainly save me some work. Let me know when and where would be convenient to get them.

I have a couple bent 9/32" shafts that would work well. Let me know if you still need one.

Since we only need a piece about 4" long, I'll see if I can turn down a section of 5/16" shaft on the lathe. I think I can get us something to work with.

I'm working on an open muzzle for Adrian's Rob Allen gun, and we want to incorporate a built in kill spike. Does anyone have a short piece of 7mm or 9/32" stainless shaft lying around? 6" would be plenty. 4" would probably do.

Thanks.