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    Practicamente mas o menos igual depende en que parte de Puerto Rico estes los pescadores del la capital les llaman de una forma los de areas mas al campo le llaman de otra pero despues que me den tiro llo les llamo pescao porqu estan muertos

    If we wanted to maintain 1/16" of wood between the trigger mechanism and the spring hole, then the current 5/16" diameter version could have the screw hole positioned 7/32" away from the trigger mech.


    If we reduced everything to fit in a 1/4" diameter hole, then the screw could be placed 3/16" away from the trigger mech.


    In either case, I think it would probably be best to leave a little more than 1/16" of wood between the spring hole and the outside of the stock.

    The small end is 0.200" outside diameter now, with a 0.140" inside diameter for the #6 screw. That only leaves 1/32" per side.


    If we were to use a #4 screw, which is 0.112" in diameter, then the outside diameter of the small bushing end could probably be reduced to about 0.150". It would be close, but that might allow the use of a smaller spring that I found with a 0.240" outside diameter, which woud fit in a 1/4" hole.

    The only flaw with this system is the diameter. I prefer slimmer stocks and don't think I have enough room to install that. Tin Man, can you dream up a solution for that? Is it possible to reduce the diameter of all the components?


    After a little checking, I am "pretty sure" that I could reduce the max diameter from 5/16" down to 1/4".

    Dan - Yes, I think that it could certainly be made smaller, but the pieces would be harder to find "off the shelf". For example, #6 screws are easily available in many lengths, but #4 are hard to find long enough. Stainless bushings in 3/16" dimeter are cheap, and springs are easy to find to fit around 3/16" diameter bushings, etc. The dimensions that I typically use would most appropriately be considered "convenient", and not necessarily "optimal".


    I have no doubt that it could be done if someone wanted to badly enough. I think that it would become a question of how hard you wanted to work to reduce the diameter by another 1/32", for example, and then how hard to reduce it still further. If that small change was the difference in whether it would fit your application or not, then of course it might be worth the trouble.


    If you have something particular in mind, you know I'll help you out if I can.

    Thanks. I have a few more questions.


    1. Must the system be installed from the top due to the direction the spring is coiled?
    2. Is there a way to install from the bottom?
    3. Why is the washer necessary?
    4. Does the length of the sleeve have to match this particular trigger mech? I mean does the bottom end of the sleeve have to touch the bottom of the line release slot in the stock and the top be just flush with the top of the stock.



    1 / 2. The release can certainly be installed from the bottom. As you pointed out, torsion springs work best if are turned in a direction that tightens them. So a bottom mounted release would work best with a spring that is wound in the opposite direction. Also, depending on the design, the handle might be in the way. Not true in all cases, but likely if using an Alexander or Aimrite, or anything else with a fairly large mounting flange.


    3. The washer keeps the little stainless bushing from getthing forced down into the wood when the screw is tightened. The small end of the bushing is just a hair over 3/16" in diameter, and most of that is taken up by the screw through the middle, so it will easily pull itself too deep into the wood without a washer.


    4. Yes and no. The bottom part (the 3/16" diameter part) of the sleeve is about 3/8" long because that works out to be the right length for this particular spring. It allows a little movement, but not enough to let the spring come loose from the line release lever. The top part of the sleeve (the 5/16" diameter part) can be any length you want. I like it flush, or just barely sticking up from the top surface of the gun, but the length is not important to the action of the release.


    By the way, the little stainless bushing doesn't have to be stainless, and doesn't have to be a single piece. In my earlier prototypes, I made it from a standard stainless bushing, and a little round piece of plastic rod. The slot in the side can be cut with a hacksaw, or even better, a small modelling saw, in just a few strokes. It doesn't have to be perfect, as it will be hidden.


    Here are a few pics from an early prototype. One advantage to a bottom mounted installation is that most of the common extension springs are wound in that direction, so you don't even need a torsion spring. The spring in the photo is a "left hand wind", which is what you need for a top install. For a bottom install, use a "right hand wind". To understand the difference, just imagine the spring coils as though you were screwing a nut onto a screw. If it would to on with the standard clockwise motion, then it's a right handed spring, just like right handed screw threads.


    We're going to take some more detailed pictures to show an "exploded" view, but the spring attachment is easy. Just beside the large hole in the lever, there is a much smaller hole. The spring wire is bent down, and inserts through the small hole. In earlier versions, I just filed a small slot in the side of the large hole, and that worked fine as well, if you don't have the means to drill a tiny hole.


    I'll try to post some more detailed and dimensioned drawings as well.

    The line release lever works in the trigger slot just like a typical line release. When the gun is cocked, the trigger holds the release back, and keeps the line in place. When the trigger is fired, the line pulls against the small spring, and the release moves forward.


    After the line pulls free, the little spring moves the line release lever back into position, so that you can insert the shaft and cock the gun without having to make sure that the release isn't in the way.

    Pantoja deja el lloriqueo y recuerdate lo mucho que te jodias en cuba y los malos dias de pesca como cuando el arpon se te disparo eso fue tan solo otro dia de entrenamiento para cuando vengan.
    que buen mero tiene que estar en tenporadacomo los de aca. el agua esta fria????

    The water was warm enough on my last dive that I really didn't need any thermal protection for a reasonable period of time. Part of the reason I wore anything was due to my own inexperience. I felt more comfortable having a little positive buoyancy once I passed about 20-25' on my way up. I was probably more buoyant than I needed to be, but being new, the peace of mind helped me relax, and have a more enjoyable dive.


    For most of the year, I'll need a suit of some kind, but I certainly see your point about minimizing.


    Core - I also thought about the double layer adding extra buoyancy, but didn't really want to cut the only suit I own.

    Sounds like maybe I'm not that different then. For now, I'm using a two piece 3mm farmer john closed cell suit. When I wear just the bottoms, and about 2-4 lbs, I float very comfortably and horizontally on the surface. Beginning the dive feels easy and relaxed.


    But if I wear the top half as well, in combination with needing more weight, I go vertical quickly. Beginning the dive seems to take more effort, and I can feel myself getting "un relaxed". Maybe it's just something to get accustomed to.