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I have trouble getting relaxed because I seem to float vertically. The only way that I can get balanced to float horizontally is to wear only the bottom half of a two piece suit, which isn't practical except in the very warmest months here. Otherwise, I'm very leg heavy. I feel like I can't relax because I am constantly finning to stay horizontal, or else allow myself to float vertically and have to do a 180° turn to start the dive.

I'm pretty new to this, so any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm hoping that I'm overlooking the obvious.

Thanks guys. 40 mm is too large for my current camera mounts. I could make a larger version if he wants one, but I will have to start with a larger (more expensive) piece of plastic.

Quote from Wood Guy

I wouldn't try to slide it around on the table without restraints. You could clamp some guides on the table to restrain it, but without something to hold the work securely it's really not much different from a straight bit in a router table, except you can see what you're doing.

One other caution about using a drill press with any type of bit where you are pushing it sideways.

The chuck on a drill press has a tapered male shank that jams up inside the tapered female spindle. Only friction holds it in place, which is more than enough because the drill press is designed to force downward, and that force keeps the tapered shank solidly in place. Use care if you push sideways on a drill press chuck, because that tapered male piece can work loose and the chuck will fall out.

Possibly start the 1/2" radius just rearward of the band slot, and maintain the 1/4" radius forward? That would give the muzzle a slightly squared off look, and the rest of the gun a more rounded look.

I'm only estimating from the pics, but I don't think that you want a larger radius on the thin section under the band slot.

Sounds like you're more than capable of making the swim, as the Mass is only about a mile offshore. But I would strongly advise against it because of the enormous boat traffic in that area. If you could score a couple of kayaks, though, you might have something.

There are also two small wrecks that are only a couple hundred yards off the Ft. McRae beach which you could easily swim to if you could get a ride out to the fort. They hold sheepshead and flounder at different times of the year. Much less boat traffic, but you'll still want to be highly visible. If you think you have transport arranged, I can PM you the GPS numbers.

I'd like to help you out, as I'll be over there in a week or so, but the family schedule is pretty full. I might be able to offer a few other thoughts:

First, I doubt there are any dedicated freediving charters. In my time in Pensacola, I don't think I ever met anyone who spearfished without scuba. But depending on your ability, there are a few popular scuba spots that you could hop a charter to. The three barges (about 45-50') and Tex Edwards Barge (about 70') are possibilities. MBT and the Dive Pros used to run spearfishing charters. MBT in particular is spearo friendly, and even runs the "Guns and Hoses" tournament every year. Give them a call if you haven't already. They'll go right by the Mass on their way to just about anywhere, so you might be able to arrange a quick stop on the way in.

But even on my certification dives, there were a couple of spearfishermen that tagged along. I never experienced the rift between spearfishing and non-spearfishing divers that I often hear about in other places. This is North Florida / South Alabama, and most of the vehicles in the parking lot probably have a deer rifle hanging in the back, whether they spearfish or not.

I certainly wouldn't argue that this arrangement was the equivalent of the Riffe inflatable float in terms of quality. And the solid bullet nosed floats could be stacked in the same way to make a float of any desired buoyancy.

My question was really more along the lines of preferred float design. Regardless of how you did it, is a long and narrow float design a good thing or a bad thing, and why?

Quote from seaweed

The barrel diameter for pneumatics is a common spec and is usually listed on the webpages..

Just like me to overlook the obvious solution . . .

Interesting thread on SB, where a guy made a float using some sort of sleeve made of a reflective fabric, and inserted two 2 liter soda bottles. Here's the original website: http://apox.ru/content/view/931/1/

Somebody pointed out that the bottles might crush at depth, and someone else pointed out the interesting possibility of adding a little vinegar and baking soda inside each bottle to generate a bit of positive internal pressure before capping off. I must admit, if you could get the amounts right, this seems like one of those "elegantly simple" ways to do it, vs. any kind of inflator valve.

It seemed like an interesting idea. You could construct a sleeve of heavy duty material, as long as you wanted, and add as many bottles as you wanted. About 4-lbs buoyancy each. Potentially, at least, it could be a dirt cheap float. If the fabric sleeve were durable, just replace the soda bottles now and then if they leak. If the float were comprised of 4-6 bottles, there would even be a fair bit of redundancy if one bottle leaked.

So what would be the disadvantages of a long, narrow float? Seems like it would tow easily through the water. Should exert very little drag on the fish if he made a fast run, and would rely only on buoyancy.

What is the downside?

Yes, Dan, I would appreciate the measurement. If anyone else has a different brand and could measure it, that would be helpful as well. If the variance between brands is small, then the same size plastic mount might fit several different brands.

I was asked if I could make a camera mount to fit a pneumatic speargun, but the guy didn't have an accurate way to measure the barrel diameter. Does anyone have a pneumatic handy, as well as a set of dial calipers, and could you please tell me the outside diameter and brand?

Are pneumtic barrels of a standard diameter, or do they vary between manufacturers?

Thanks much.

Avin se ve muy bien la Pistola

Mucinex is what the PFD guys recommend. You have to start taking it a couple days ahead of time, but it does a great job of clearing you out. It's not something I use on a regular basis, but I keep it around just in case I start to get a little clogged up prior to a planned trip.

They also recommended a sinus rinse. It basically consists of forcing salt water up your nose until it fills your sinus cavity and comes out your mouth. Sounds much worse that it is.

Sometimes sinus squeezes are due to being a little clogged up, sometimes it's due to some messed up, constricted passageway. I hope your problem is just being clogged.

Chad

Thanks guys. I'll give you a shout after I catch up with Griswold and see if he's got something I can use.

Thanks for the quick responses. If Griswold's will work, I'll go that route since I can pick them up and avoid shipping.

I've got a bunch. I probably have 6 or 8 shafts that are bent leaning in the corner of the workshop. I'm sure you can get straight sections out of them that are long enough for your needs. You are welcome to them. Some have floppers, some have threads.

Will do. Thanks Dan.

I want to build a couple of polespears for my two sons. I need two reasonably straight pieces of shaft, about 20" long. Either 5/16" or 9/32" would work, I think, and I would rather have stainless steel if possible. Pointy ends with floppers would be great, but I can drill and attach a new flopper if needed.

Anyone have some scrap shafts or shaft sections they might sell or trade?

In general, solder only sticks to relatively pure metal surfaces that have been cleaned of coatings and impurities. I doubt that it would stick at all unless you removed the plating on the shaft surface.

You might try the 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tapes. In particular, I use the 9469 to attach rubber to the aluminum on camera mounts. The 9469 isn't actually a tape. It is just a thin layer (0.005") of strong adhesive, with a removable paper layer on each side. You peel off one piece of paper, and apply the tape. Peel off the other piece of paper, and stick on your piece.

It's not quite bullet proof on the rubber, but it sticks great to the aluminum. It might work very well for joining two metal pieces, as long as they fit together with no gap. I'll try a scrap and see what happens.

You can get it for cheap on Ebay.