Same stuff, with a little cleaner cut and sanding, on a more recent gun.

Same stuff, with a little cleaner cut and sanding, on a more recent gun.

I personally like Kitto's three part M6 mech. Admittedly it's way overkill, but the $65 price is competitive and the trigger pull is the smoothest I have found. It is taller, though.
Whichever mech you go with, I really like to have a line release that automatically resets itself.
I like to make my own handles because I'm smaller than average. If I had to use an off-the-shelf handle, I find the Alexander to be reasonably comfortable, but I don't like the Aimrite.
For chest loading pads, I have recently found a nice soft rubber that I really like. I'll never go back to flip-flop sole. I posted it under the "Spearguns" section.
Measure twice, cut once . . .
These turned out to take a lot more time to put together than I thought. I was very picky in developing a telescoping action that was smooth, and locked solidly, with no looseness or wobble. That, plus about $100 worth of materials, and ultimately I learned that it just wasn't worth it for me to make them for sale. I'll have to look, though, because I think I still have a bunch of pre-cut parts boxed up in the attic.
I look forward to seeing your guns progress, especially the larger one as I am planning something about the same size.
But in the meantime, maybe you could show us some more of your artwork!
I'll agree with your assessment of the stock in the pics. I'll only add that I know nothing else about the gun. Could just be an old beater that he was using to test out the design.
The small ones that I may have available are 1.25 lbs each, so 6 of them would weight about 7.5 lbs. I'm an extreme novice freediver, so there are many others here much more qualified to help you estimate your needed weight.
<img src= " class="smiley" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x" height="23" width="23" loading="eager" data-tooltip="biggrin" aria-label="biggrin"> Thanks!
The last batch sold out before I ever posted them, but I may have a 6 available if I don't get a check from one guy pretty soon. How many do you need? After that, it will be a while before I pour any more. I've got a couple of much more interesting projects on the front burner right now.
Pucho - That's not my gun in the pics. Kitto sent me those photos just to show what the spring loaded release looks like. Based on what I can see, I don't think that his spring loaded release would be difficult to install. But I kind of like my torsion spring release, so that's what I will probably use.
The mechanism itself takes just a little more care to install because of the way it is constructed from a bent piece of sheet steel. It tends to be just a little bit thicker on top. Once you get the trigger pocket the right width for the majority of the housing, you will have to open up the top of the pocket slightly, especially if recessing the mechanism deep enough for an enclosed track. It's just a tiny bit, though. Probably around 1/32". The picture below from Kitto's website sort of shows how the top is just a hair wider.

Actually, I haven't made any more of these since the first batch of three prototypes, but I don't see any reason why something similar could not be made to fit a Biller. I think the reason that Dan originally thought of the rail gun version was that the 28mm barrel is such a popular standard shared by so many different manufacturers.
Are you talking about those separators they have in supermarkets that you put between yours and other people's groceries? Did you find a way to improve them?
Hah! Heavens no, those are the peak of design achievement . . . <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
I think that some of the coolest potential ideas would be in new materials. I don't think that any of these exist, but what if:
There were a synthetic stock material that were cheap and could replace the use of old growth teak, with all the same desirable properties?
Or bands that could stretch to 10 times their relaxed length, allowing band stretch over the entire length of the gun?
Or shafts made of steel with a "memory"? They get bent, and you just apply a little heat and they go back to their original straight shape? (there are metals like this now, just not suitable for shafts).
Aaack! :@ Blasphemy! <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">
If a device with no moving parts whose sole purpose is to sit on a rubber belt and be heavy can be improved, then so can anything else. There is an often repeated story (which may or may not be true) that there once was a commissioner of the U.S. Patent Office who publicly proclaimed that everthing worthwhile had already been invented. He supposedly made that statement in 1894.
I do think, however, that many of the best "improvements" are the ones that allow simplification, rather than added complexity.
I'd be interested as well if someone coordinates an order. What steel is the blade made of?
Nice find Dan. What is the little button looking thing in the red circle by your index finger? Just a fastener to hold the rubber handle to the steel blade, or something else?
I would tend to agree, so why aren't all spearguns round? At least for the forward part that must swing through the water. I'm not suggesting that it has to be small diameter (like a hybrid), as I am trying to think about this without regard for size or appropriate ballast.
Cost? - More wood gets wasted on a round shape
Strength? - A square shape is stiffer than a round one of equal height
Harder to fabricate? - Certainly would be more difficult for home builders without square edges to serve as a reference.
Mostly an academic arguement, but since we're talking about tracking . . .
Does a circular shape stock (call the diameter "X" ) track more easily through the water than a square shape of the same dimensions (height of "X" and width of "X") ? I guess what I am wondering is whether streamlinig matters, or is it simply a matter of how much water must be moved out of the way as the gun swings?
I have shot round barrel guns, and square stock wooden guns of about the same length, but they were far too different in too many ways for me to venture a guess about the importance of just this one variable.
I really like Bill Kitto's three part M6 trigger mechanism, and I just ordered one for my next gun build. In corresponding with him, I learned that he now offers it with a spring resetting line release. His release uses a tension spring recessed in a slot on the outside of the gun, as shown in his pictures below.
I kind of like my own torsion spring release, but I just thought I would mention it as an option for anyone interested.
That really turned out beautifully Dan! I love the look of the penetrating eopoxy, and the carving on the side is very nice touch.
AKKK!!, get that thing out of the sand!!! It's way to pretty for such abuse. I'm with everyone else, beautiful gun, the details look FINE!!!
Dan - I think when he says a v-shaped base, he means something along the lines of the pic below. I've always called them "V-Blocks", but either way, their purpose is to make it easier to hold a round object securely while working it.
I've never made my own shafts, so I'm also very curious to hear more. Do you heat treat them yourself?