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    I am 5'11, 175lbs, useing a full 3mm suit and use 4lbs. But I seldom freedive below 50fsw.
    hau


    hau, at what depth does your bouyancy change when you use 4lbs?


    I've been using four pound and am thinking of added two more. Any advice?

    Marco - I agree that the single mounting screw is a concern, but I would like something cleaner than a tangle of rubber straps around the camera. I'll see what I can come up with. It would be nice to keep the simplicity of the single screw attachment to the camera, if some other part of the asembly could absorb the recoil? Possibly the arm which supports the camera could be partially constructed of something somewhat flexible? The trick, I think, would be keeping the arm stiff enough to hold the camera in proper position, but flexible enough to reduce the force on the mounting screw.

    While making up a couple of rail gun camera mounts, it occurred to me that the Delrin clamping assembly is really the only part that is machined. After that, you can pretty much add whatever aluminum or plastic arm you want to support the camera. For that matter, you could probably use the same clamp to attach a light, spare shaft holder, or whatever you could dream up.


    So I made up three extra clamps in case anyone has a DIY project that just needs a little help to get off the ground.


    They are black delrin, 1.5" high by 1.5" wide by 2" long, and bored to fit a standard 28mm rail gun barrel. The stainless cap screws are size 10-24, and are 1.25" apart and countersunk flush. The delrin drills and taps well if you wanted to attach something other than with the two cap screws and knobs. $35 each shipped in the continental U.S.




    I'm over in Tampa for winter Break and tried to jump in the water today off the beach. Makes me miss Broward county.


    After 3 days of flat calm seas, <5mph winds out of the east, the vis was so bad that I couldnt see my hand fully extended in the water. water was 65deg.


    Make me appreciate our clear water!!

    Yes, I threaded the end of the slip tip to accept the broadhead point. They are plated with something that looks suspiciously like the greenish coating on the old RA shafts. They are quite sharp right out of the box, so I don't hone them like the one in the picture, and the coating protects them pretty well. The coating does get worn off of the cutting edges eventually, and then they will rust just like an RA shaft.

    First it's pretty much accepted that a tri cut has better penetration, the downside of a tri cut is that it will deform more easily if you shoot it into a rock. But I'm sure you knew that.


    PS. What's a hollow ground point?


    Yes, I knew that a tri-cut is generally accepted to penetrate better than a conical point. But I have noticed that many people take a conical point and grind just the smallest of tri-cuts on the tip. I wondered if that falls somewhere in between, or does it perform as well as a larger tri-cut tip.


    I tip my JBL slip tip with a replaceable broadhead point. Not the blades, just the little screw on tip. When I lost it (had to cut the spectra inside a wreck) I went back to a spare tip with a regular tri-cut head and noticed a HUGE loss of penetration.


    Hollow ground means that the material between the cutting edges is removed in a concave manner, which makes the angle of the edges sharper. Cuts better, but more prone to damage and not easily sharpened. But the broadhead points are only $1.50 each, so when they get dull I just replace.


    I know the foam you're talking about. May try that instead.

    I've pulled the trigger some 15 times on my little bay gun, with both 2 and 3 band setups, and have been trying to pay close attention to the penetration I get. I'm using a crappy JBL slip double flopper slip tip at the moment, but one of my next projects will be to build my own. All of which got me to thinking about the way a shaft penetrates. Has anyone ever seen REAL testing to compare the penetration of different shaft diameters, and pencil vs. tricut tips?


    I was thinking about setting up a little test fixture. Basically, a weighted pendulum with a few inches of shaft attached to the weight. Pull the pendulum back to a given height, and let it swing down against the target. I think that would give a pretty repeatable "input energy". Now, what to use for the target? I was thinking about using a stack of pieces cut from a scrap sheet of wallboard (drywall) because I can get all the scraps I want from the dumpster at a house under construction. It's a little softer, and hopefully more consistant in hardness, than wood.


    Things I want to test:


    1. For a given diameter (say 5/16"), which geometry penetrates better? (conical point, full tri-cut, conical with tri-cut point, or hollow ground point).


    2. Compare the penetration of a 9/32" single flopper vs. 5/16" single flopper. I don't have either one, so maybe someone could donate the front 8-12" of a wrecked shaft?


    3. What else would be good to know?


    All input is greatly appreciated. I would really hate to get this all done only to find out that I overlooked something major. I'm sure this has been done, but I can't find it anywhere.

    Gumbo is a stew? Is it good? How many squirrels do you need?


    Yes, gumbo is a stew eaten over rice. In Louisiana, it is commonly made with almost any type of wild game including squirrel, rabbit, duck, goose, or venison. Also with chicken, sausage, or mixed seafood (shrimp, crab, and oysters, typically).


    Squirrel tastes a lot like rabbit!

    Jim - You could be right, of course, but I'm still curious. One of the things that I have been wanting to do is to take equivalent lines of mono, cable, and spectra-over-mono and do some target practice to see if they have significant impact on my aim.


    FWIW, from this picture, it appears that the snap part of these is the same size for the 200#, 300#, and 500# sizes, just with different swivels.


    Edit - I might also try one of these for securing the other end of the shooting line to the muzzle bungie. The wire end on the regular style of snap swivel is really scratching up my gun.

    I know that the standard way to connect mono or cable shooting line to the doghouse or sharkfin of a spearshaft is with a crimped connection.


    But, has anyone used any sort of removable connection? When diving around structure, I have to replace my mono shooting line frequently. Sometimes, I should probably even replace it mid-day, but I'm never in the mood to break out the stuff on the boat when there are fish about. I could use cable, of course. But I don't like the way it tends to kink, the weight that it adds to my gun, and the fact that I can't cut it quickly if I need / want to.


    I'm using a Ray Odor shaft with the doghouse, so I have more room to work with than the small hole throuh a sharkfin tab. Is there anything better out there than a big snap swivel?

    If someone had predicted this yesterday, I would have thought them nuts. We ended up with about 4" of snow, and even the old timers can't remember anything more than a few scattered flurries over the last many years. Just a cold rain falling now, but I must say it was very pretty while it lasted.