Posts by Guest

This may be a slightly different take, but related. Most of the places I dive consist of small, hollow structures like sunken boats or car bodies, generally with many similar structures nearby. Often, I have dived the same spot several times in the space of a few hours, and found the fish to be present, gone, and present again. I have noticed that often, when the fish appear to be gone, they are actually hiding deep within the recesses of the wreck. With a flashlight, you can just see the tip of a tail, or an eye, etc. My theory is that the fish emerge to feed periodically, when the mood suits them, and then retire to a safe place afterwards.

Within the small confines of Pensacola Bay, I don't think the fish migrate large distances during different tides, or phases of the moon. They just move from shallow sandy areas, for example, to deep muddy holes. They do migrate seasonally, with the best hunting in early spring, just before snapper season opens . . .

Polypropylene degrades in sunlight. Colored additives help keep the UV rays from penetrating the rope as completely, and slow down the degradation. A clear polypropylene would probably degrade and weaken much more quickly. That said, I don't know why mono can be clear.

Alan - I'm sold out at the moment, but I should have some more ready in about 2 weeks. I can get up to 40 lbs or so in a $9.00 flat rate shipping box, so certainly there is room to combine a couple of orders into one shipment if that works for you.

Generally not inclined to read the instructions . . .

Quote from Dan

The largest is the Beluga sturgeon which can reach 7meters (24 ft) and 3000lb.

Holy Crap! Not really, huh? Any actual photos of one approaching that size?

Quote from Dan

Not at all complicated, it may seem that way if you've never used sound editor software.

You nailed it. I think in thousandths of an inch by habit, but I can't program my DVD without the wife's help!

I actually thought it was unnecessarily complicated. Couldn't you just film the shot from above, isolate two video frames where the spear is in motion, and count the number of pool tiles traversed? If you know the camera captures, say, 16, or 24, or whatever, frames per second, and you know the length of the pool tiles, then calculating velocity is easy.

I tend to agree with Dan, and I can offer two additional thoughts as well. The first is to use Delrin instead of steel plates. Delrin is plenty strong, and is easily worked with wood-working tools. My hunch is that it also would be quieter (if you care) than steel rubbing on steel. And if you are using any non-stainless shafts, the Delrin would be far less likely to wear off the protective shaft plating (as on Rob Allen shafts). Or maybe neither of these is a concern, depending on the gun design.

Another approach is to use a short section of Delrin dovetailed into the muzzle, and then cut the track straight through the delrin and wood at the same time. This is the full length delrin track that I used, but the concept would could obviously be used for a short section as well, and need not extend above the top surface of the stock.

I have no personal experience with this site, but they have small quantities of glass fiber and other fillers for reasonable prices.

http://www.fiberglasssupply.co…alog/Fillers/fillers.html

The ends of the legs are just a rubber "crutch tip" that fits snuggly on the 3/4" diameter tube. I made the clamps from PVC bar stock, with a shape designed to allow the rods to snap in place. I pretty much made everything except for buckles and having the anodizing done. Getting the tubes to telescope perfectly was the toughest part, and is most of what takes the time when assembling. But resulting action meets my specs.

Probably about $75 in parts, because I bought a lot of the pieces in quantity with the intent of selling some through the local dive shops. That didn't pan out when one shop folded and took several racks with them when they skipped town. :nono: Anyway, I think I still have enough pieces laying to make another half dozen or so.

I came across this looking for something else in the attic. It was one of my first DIY projects from back when we used to spend all day out at Fort Pickens just hanging out and diving around the old fort stuff. We wanted something portable to keep our stuff out of the sand between dives, so . . .

Dan - You might recognize the telescoping black tubes. <img src= " height="23" srcset="https://spearfishing.world/forum/images/smilies/emojione/1f606@2x.png 2x">

Belly's not a problem, at least not for now! I completely forgot about it being in the way when hip loading, though, and I do both depending on which gun I am using. I got my arm band in the mail, and am looking forward to making a sheath to fit, but haven't started yet. My only concern is that it is only accessible to one hand. I was also thinking that high on the thing could work. Accessible with either hand, and not attached to the weight belt, so no hesitation if it needs to be dropped. Shouldn't interfere with bending to dive. Potentially, the weight belt could get hung up on the knife in the process of ditching, though.

Just playing around with knife placement a little, and had a question for the experienced. It seems to me, that a horizontal knife sheath, mounted near the front of the belt, might be very ergonomic. I prefer my knife mounted in front, if on a belt, but that is obviously unfavorable for bending forward.

So I played around by just taping a knife horizontally on a belt, and found it very easy to access with either hand. On the downside, it must be positioned so as not to interfere with speedy operation of the belt buckle. Any downside to rotating the belt slightly and positioning the belt buckle slightly off center? You would want to position the sheath so that in drawing the knife, you would not inadvertently release the buckle, if using a quick release style.

I have never seen a knife sheath manufactured to be mounted that way, but it wouldn't be that hard to do. Just late night ramblings, but still curious to hear your thoughts.

Here are a couple more pics of the original wooden model, showing why they are called "pinch" weights. The inside of the belt slot is hourglassed on the top and bottom. When the belt is stretched, it gets thinner, and the weight is easily moved. When the belt is relaxed, it expands, locking itself securely within the slot through the weight.

That would certainly be best.

The main reason that I have not explored using a rubber coating is because the thickness of the rubber would have to be considered in designing the belt slot to keep the "pinch" working properly. I would have to make a dedicated mold, and then would have to apply the rubber coating in a manner that resulted in very consistant thickness. Also, a rubber coating inside the belt slot, rubbing against a rubber belt, may make the weight harder to slide, even when the belt is stretched. Not saying that it can't be done, just that it is more then I have been willing to explore so far. If anyone else is successful, I would love to hear about it.

Paint, if only for aesthetic purposes, is usually less than 0.010" thick, and so would not affect the fit of the weights.

I can understand how records for dynamic apnea, or "constant weight with fins" might favor a taller, thinner athlete, and so maybe men might generally perform better.

But for static apnea, the current men's record is 10:12 (Tom Sietas) while the current women's record is 8.00 by Natalia MOLCHANOVA. For no limits using a sled, the current men's record is 214m by Herbert Nitsch, while the current women's record is 160m by Tanya Streeter. These from http://aida-international.org/. For these records, it would seem that external body shape, size, or strength would have little relevance, other than their indirect affect on on things like lung capacity.

So my question is, why don't women equal men in these pursuits?

That is consistent with my my experience using other brands as well. For some reason, the rubber on the Ansell holds up better in my experience. Of course, at $3.00 per pair, I wouldn't feel too bad replacing them periodically.

Do you recall if you tried the Ansell brand?

We use the Ansell Powerflex 80-100 gloves at work, and my employer actually encourages us to take home gloves, safety glasses, ear plugs, etc. to use at home. They are inexpensive (about $40 for a dozen pairs), and they hold up very well. The rubberized palm grips well, and is surprisingly puncture resistant. I particularly like that they are available in several sizes and stretch and conform to fit my hand well. Curious to hear if anyone else has tried them, and what were your thoughts.

One more thing. I have tried similar rubber dipped designs that I found at hardware stores,etc. and they were awful. Some of the other brands are thinner, and the rubber gets sticky after a while. Not so with the Ansell gloves.